Synopsis: Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in the absence of additional biological, chemical and physical factors. The clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are not usually evident until old age when, although smooth and unblemished, the skin surface appears pale and is characterized by fine wrinkles with occasional exaggerated expression lines. Functionally, intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin. In contrast, extrinsically aged skin is exemplified by deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil. The two major environmental influences which induce extrinsic ageing are: (i) chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation (termed photoageing) and (ii) smoking. This review discusses the changes associated with the ageing process in the skin, with particular emphasis on the role played by the elastic fibre network in maintaining dermal function. The review concludes with a discussion of a short‐term assay for independent assessment of the efficacy of anti‐ageing cosmetic products using the elastic fibre component fibrillin‐1 as a biomarker of extracellular matrix repair.

The dermal-epidermal junction of human skin exhibits age-related remodelling, resulting in a flattened appearance and reduced surface area. Despite this, a paucity of information is available regarding which protein components change with advancing age. Here we report a significant reduction in the protein distribution of collagen IV (P<0.0001), collagen VII (P<0.001), collagen XVII (P<0.01), integrin β4 (P<0.001) and laminin-332 (P<0.0001) in intrinsically aged skin. The functional implication of this altered protein composition appears to be loss of structural integrity and may, in part, explain the increased fragility of aged skin.

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin’s interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall ‘health and wellbeing’; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) – a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical ‘gold standard’ – a hybrid category of ‘cosmeceutical’ products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Background Human skin has the crucial roles of maintaining homeostasis and protecting against the external environment. Skin offers protection against mechanical trauma due to the reversible deformation of its structure; these biomechanical properties are amenable to dynamic testing using noninvasive devices. Objectives To characterize the biomechanical properties of young, black African/African‐Caribbean and white Northern European skin from different anatomical sites, and to relate underlying skin architecture to biomechanical function. Methods Using cutometry and ballistometry, the biomechanical properties of buttock and dorsal forearm skin were determined in black African/African‐Caribbean (n = 18) and white Northern European (n = 20) individuals aged 18–30 years. Skin biopsies were obtained from a subset of the volunteers (black African/African‐Caribbean, n = 5; white Northern European, n = 6) and processed for histological and immunohistochemical detection of the major elastic fibre components and fibrillar collagens. Results We have determined that healthy skin from young African and white Northern European individuals has similar biomechanical properties (F3): the skin is resilient (capable of returning to its original position following deformation, R1), exhibits minimal fatigue (R4) and is highly elastic (R2, R5 and R7). At the histological level, skin with these biomechanical properties is imbued with strong interdigitation of the rete ridges at the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) and candelabra‐like arrays of elastic fibres throughout the papillary dermis. Dramatic disruption to this highly organized arrangement of elastic fibres, effacement of the rete ridges and alterations to the alignment of the fibrillar collagens is apparent in the white Northern European forearm and coincides with a marked decline in biomechanical function. Conclusions Maintenance of skin architecture – both epidermal morphology and elastic fibre arrangement – is essential for optimal skin biomechanical properties. Disruption to underlying skin architecture, as observed in the young white Northern European forearm, compromises biomechanical function.

Public health guidance recommends limiting sun exposure to sub-sunburn levels, but it is unknown whether these can gain vitamin D (for musculoskeletal health) while avoiding epidermal DNA damage (initiates skin cancer). Well-characterized healthy humans of all skin types (I-VI, lightest to darkest skin) were exposed to a low-dose series of solar simulated UVR of 20%-80% their individual sunburn threshold dose (minimal erythema dose). Significant UVR dose responses were seen for serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D and whole epidermal cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), with as little as 0.2 minimal erythema dose concurrently producing 25-hydroxyvitamin D and CPD. Fractional MEDs generated equivalent levels of whole epidermal CPD and 25-hydroxyvitamin D across all skin types. Crucially, we showed an epidermal gradient of CPD formation strongly correlated with skin darkness (r = 0.74, P < 0.0001), which reflected melanin content and showed increasing protection across the skin types, ranging from darkest skin, where high CPD levels occurred superficially, with none in the germinative basal layer, to lightest skin, where CPD levels were induced evenly across the epidermal depth. People with darker skin can be encouraged to use sub-sunburn UVR-exposure to enhance their vitamin D. In people with lighter skin, basal cell damage occurs concurrent with vitamin D synthesis at exquisitely low UVR levels, providing an explanation for their high skin cancer incidence; greater caution is required.