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Prof. Helena Ribeiro
Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Universidade de Lisboa

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0 Cosmetics
0 Skin Care Products
0 rheological properties
0 pharmacetical formulations
0 efficacy test

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rheological properties

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Journal article
Published: 21 June 2021 in Dermato
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(1) Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO2) consists of three polymorphs, including anatase, rutile and brookite. This work aimed to elucidate the influence of rutile and anatase forms in the performance of sunscreens formulated with green coffee oil (GCO) from coffee beans discarded in the agri-food industry. (2) Methods: TiO2 particles were characterized in terms of size and wettability. The sunscreens formulated with GCO were characterized regarding the droplet size, rheology, texture profile analysis (TPA), in vitro Sun Protection Factor and Water Resistance Retention. Topical delivery and permeation studies were performed to confirm caffeine release and skin penetration. (3) Results: Particle size distributions of rutile and anatase TiO2 particles were similar, however, smaller droplets as well as decreased viscosity and increased thixotropy were obtained for anatase TiO2 and GCO formulation compared to rutile form formulations. Notwithstanding, all formulations exhibited linear viscoelastic behavior. Regarding the TPA, a wide range of mechanical properties improved mainly by GCO rather than TiO2 form has been demonstrated. The influence of TiO2 form on UV protection was better evidenced in absence of GCO. The sunscreen formulations containing GCO presented a favorable topical delivery as confirmed by caffeine release and permeation. (4) Conclusions: Both TiO2 forms combined with GCO provided suitable properties including an effective ultraviolet (UV)-light protection.

ACS Style

Bruna Chiari-Andréo; Joana Marto; Andreia Ascenso; Carlos Carneiro; Laura Rodríguez; Antonio Guillot; Teresa Garrigues; Helena Ribeiro; Ana Melero; Vera Isaac. The Impact of Titanium Dioxide Type Combined with Coffee Oil Obtained from Coffee Industry Waste on Sunscreen Product Performance. Dermato 2021, 1, 2 -17.

AMA Style

Bruna Chiari-Andréo, Joana Marto, Andreia Ascenso, Carlos Carneiro, Laura Rodríguez, Antonio Guillot, Teresa Garrigues, Helena Ribeiro, Ana Melero, Vera Isaac. The Impact of Titanium Dioxide Type Combined with Coffee Oil Obtained from Coffee Industry Waste on Sunscreen Product Performance. Dermato. 2021; 1 (1):2-17.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Bruna Chiari-Andréo; Joana Marto; Andreia Ascenso; Carlos Carneiro; Laura Rodríguez; Antonio Guillot; Teresa Garrigues; Helena Ribeiro; Ana Melero; Vera Isaac. 2021. "The Impact of Titanium Dioxide Type Combined with Coffee Oil Obtained from Coffee Industry Waste on Sunscreen Product Performance." Dermato 1, no. 1: 2-17.

Review article
Published: 10 June 2021 in International Journal of Pharmaceutics
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The incorporation of 3D printing technologies in the pharmaceutical industry can revolutionize its R&D, by providing a simple and rapid method to produce tailored one-off batches, each with customized dosages, different compounds, shapes, sizes, and adjusted release rates. Particularly, this type of technology can be advantageous for the development of topical and transdermal drug delivery systems, including patches and microneedles. The use of both systems as drug carriers offers advantages over the oral administration, but the possibility of skin irritation and sensitization, and the high production costs, may hinder the expansion of this market. In this context, 3D printing, a high-resolution technique, allows the design of high quality, personalized, complex and sophisticated structures, thus reducing the production costs and improving the patient compliance. This review covers the 3D printing concept and discusses the relevance of this technology to the pharmaceutical industry, with a special focus on the development of topical and transdermal products - patches and microneedles. The potential of 3D bioprinting for skin applications is also presented, highlighting the development of patch-like skin constructs for wound and burn treatment, and skin equivalents for in vitro research and drug development. Several recent studies were selected to support the relevance of the subjects addressed herein. Additionally, the limitations of these printing technologies are discussed, including regulatory, quality and safety issues.

ACS Style

Sara Bom; Ana M. Martins; Helena M. Ribeiro; Joana Marto. Diving into 3D (Bio)Printing: a revolutionary tool to customize the production of drug and cell-based systems for skin delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutics 2021, 605, 120794 .

AMA Style

Sara Bom, Ana M. Martins, Helena M. Ribeiro, Joana Marto. Diving into 3D (Bio)Printing: a revolutionary tool to customize the production of drug and cell-based systems for skin delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2021; 605 ():120794.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sara Bom; Ana M. Martins; Helena M. Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2021. "Diving into 3D (Bio)Printing: a revolutionary tool to customize the production of drug and cell-based systems for skin delivery." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 605, no. : 120794.

Journal article
Published: 31 May 2021 in Applied Sciences
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One of the new trends of personal care industry is the use of organic ingredients derived from nature, in particular, from food-processing residues with proven efficacy. Lycopene is a carotenoid responsible for the red color of several fruits, namely tomato, whose antioxidant and photoprotective effects have been studied. Methods: Lycopene-enriched extracts (LEE) were obtained from tomato waste using supercritical CO2 extraction, incorporated in microemulsions and macroemulsions for topical use, and characterized through GC-MS for the identification of volatile compounds. The aim of this work was to evaluate the impact of the presence of lycopene-enriched extracts developed emulsions through the identification of volatile compounds and by a sensory analysis to assess the odor and color perception and the acceptability of such semi-solid systems as cosmetic products. Results: Volatile compounds were identified in the extract and in the formulations containing the extract. Preliminary data show that the odor of both LEE-loaded microemulsions and LEE-loaded macroemulsions was classified as undefined. The information about the composition did not modify the odor perception but increased the acceptability of some cosmetic products. LEE conferred a yellowish color to formulations, and the information about the formulation composition increased the likelihood of different cosmetic products with this color being bought. Conclusions: The commercialization of personal care products does not only dependent on the associated organoleptic properties, but is influenced by the information about the composition, namely by the presence of an antioxidant compound.

ACS Style

Ana Costa; Marta Marques; Franca Congiu; Alexandre Paiva; Pedro Simões; António Ferreira; Maria Bronze; Joana Marto; Helena Ribeiro; Sandra Simões. Evaluating the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched Extracts from Tomato on Topical Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory Analysis. Applied Sciences 2021, 11, 5120 .

AMA Style

Ana Costa, Marta Marques, Franca Congiu, Alexandre Paiva, Pedro Simões, António Ferreira, Maria Bronze, Joana Marto, Helena Ribeiro, Sandra Simões. Evaluating the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched Extracts from Tomato on Topical Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory Analysis. Applied Sciences. 2021; 11 (11):5120.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Ana Costa; Marta Marques; Franca Congiu; Alexandre Paiva; Pedro Simões; António Ferreira; Maria Bronze; Joana Marto; Helena Ribeiro; Sandra Simões. 2021. "Evaluating the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched Extracts from Tomato on Topical Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory Analysis." Applied Sciences 11, no. 11: 5120.

Journal article
Published: 23 May 2021 in Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces
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Spreadability is one of the most important physicochemical properties of cosmetic products, according to the consumer. Thus, it is fundamental to develop strategies with the aim to improve the knowledge and predict the behavior of alternatives to synthetic emollients. The main goal of this research article was to correlate different physicochemical attributes, namely spreading value, apparent viscosity, density, saponification value, iodine value, peroxide value, acid value and melting range, with the spreading behavior of sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone. The sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed, and the models were built by forward selection. The two adjusted and optimized models include viscosity and density as parameters and, in the petrolatum case, the model further includes the melting range, which was also validated as a significant predictor. Furthermore, it was also possible to compare the data obtained with the consumer's perception of the spreading behavior of the studied raw materials. A strong correlation was observed, suggesting that these tools mirror the consumer opinion. The application of these mathematical models is a valuable tool to assist the entire replacement process, which usually is a time-consuming procedure.

ACS Style

Sara Bom; Luís Filipe Gouveia; Pedro Pinto; Ana Margarida Martins; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. A mathematical modeling strategy to predict the spreading behavior on skin of sustainable alternatives to personal care emollients. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 2021, 205, 111865 .

AMA Style

Sara Bom, Luís Filipe Gouveia, Pedro Pinto, Ana Margarida Martins, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Joana Marto. A mathematical modeling strategy to predict the spreading behavior on skin of sustainable alternatives to personal care emollients. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces. 2021; 205 ():111865.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sara Bom; Luís Filipe Gouveia; Pedro Pinto; Ana Margarida Martins; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2021. "A mathematical modeling strategy to predict the spreading behavior on skin of sustainable alternatives to personal care emollients." Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 205, no. : 111865.

Journal article
Published: 14 April 2021 in Pharmaceutics
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Semisolids constitute a significant proportion of topical pharmaceutical dosage forms available on the market, with creams being considered profitable systems for releasing active substances into the skin. This work aimed at the development of a generic Clotrimazole topical cream, based on the assumptions that assist the development of such formulations. First, the critical parameters to obtain a final formulation as similar as possible to the reference product were defined. Then, the percentages of cetyl palmitate and octyldodecanol were identified as critical variables and chosen for optimization in further studies. A “quality by design” approach was then used to identify the effect of process variability on the structural and functional similarity (Q3) of the generic product qualitatively (Q1) and quantitatively (Q2). A two-factor central composite orthogonal design was applied and eleven different formulations were developed and subjected to physicochemical characterization and product performance studies. The results were used to estimate the influence of the two variables in the variation of the responses, and to determine the optimum point of the tested factors, using a design space approach. Finally, an optimized formulation was obtained and analysed in parallel with the reference. The obtained results agreed with the prediction of the chemometric analysis, validating the reliability of the developed multivariate models. The in vitro release and permeation results were similar for the reference and the generic formulations, supporting the importance of interplaying microstructure properties with product performance and stability. Lastly, based on quality targets and response constraints, optimal working conditions were successfully achieved.

ACS Style

Teresa Alves; Daniel Arranca; Ana Martins; Helena Ribeiro; Sara Raposo; Joana Marto. Complying with the Guideline for Quality and Equivalence for Topical Semisolid Products: The Case of Clotrimazole Cream. Pharmaceutics 2021, 13, 555 .

AMA Style

Teresa Alves, Daniel Arranca, Ana Martins, Helena Ribeiro, Sara Raposo, Joana Marto. Complying with the Guideline for Quality and Equivalence for Topical Semisolid Products: The Case of Clotrimazole Cream. Pharmaceutics. 2021; 13 (4):555.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Teresa Alves; Daniel Arranca; Ana Martins; Helena Ribeiro; Sara Raposo; Joana Marto. 2021. "Complying with the Guideline for Quality and Equivalence for Topical Semisolid Products: The Case of Clotrimazole Cream." Pharmaceutics 13, no. 4: 555.

Journal article
Published: 30 March 2021 in Pharmaceutics
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The by-products of olive oil industry are a major ecological issue due to their phenolic content, highly toxic organic load, and low pH. However, they can be recovered and reused, since their components have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotector properties. In this work, oil-in-water creams containing three different olive oil industry by-products extracts were produced without the use of organic solvents. First, the extracts were thoroughly characterized in vitro for cytotoxicity, inhibition of skin enzymes, and antioxidant and photoprotection capacities. Safety studies were then performed, including ocular and skin irritation tests, ecotoxicity evaluation, and in vivo Human Repeat Insult Patch Test. The results obtained in this initial characterization supported the incorporation of the extracts in the cream formulations. After preparation, the creams were characterized for their organoleptic, physicochemical, droplet size and rheological properties, and microbial contamination. The results showed that all formulations were semi-solid creams, with stable pH, compatible with the skin, without microbial contamination, and with the expected droplet size range. The rheological analysis showed shear-thinning behavior with yield stress, with the viscosity decreasing with increasing shear rate. The oscillatory results suggest that the creams have a strong network structure, being easily rubbed into the skin. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. No adverse reactions were observed after application of the formulations on skin and the cream with the highest concentrations of phenolic compounds showed the highest antioxidant efficiency. In conclusion, the results suggest that olive oil industry by-products extracts have valuable properties that favor their re-use in the cosmetic industry. The example presented here showed their successful incorporation into creams and their impact in these formulations’ appearance, pH, and rheological performance, as well as their in vivo compatibility with skin and antioxidant efficiency.

ACS Style

Andreia Nunes; Lídia Gonçalves; Joana Marto; Ana Martins; Alexandra Silva; Pedro Pinto; Marta Martins; Carmo Fraga; Helena Ribeiro. Investigations of Olive Oil Industry By-Products Extracts with Potential Skin Benefits in Topical Formulations. Pharmaceutics 2021, 13, 465 .

AMA Style

Andreia Nunes, Lídia Gonçalves, Joana Marto, Ana Martins, Alexandra Silva, Pedro Pinto, Marta Martins, Carmo Fraga, Helena Ribeiro. Investigations of Olive Oil Industry By-Products Extracts with Potential Skin Benefits in Topical Formulations. Pharmaceutics. 2021; 13 (4):465.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Andreia Nunes; Lídia Gonçalves; Joana Marto; Ana Martins; Alexandra Silva; Pedro Pinto; Marta Martins; Carmo Fraga; Helena Ribeiro. 2021. "Investigations of Olive Oil Industry By-Products Extracts with Potential Skin Benefits in Topical Formulations." Pharmaceutics 13, no. 4: 465.

Journal article
Published: 03 March 2021 in Pharmaceutics
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Innovative formulations, including solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), have been sought to improve skin permeation of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). The present study explores the use of SLNs, prepared using a fusion-emulsification method, to increase skin permeation and in vivo activity of two relevant NSAIDs: A liquid molecule (etofenamate) and a solid one (ibuprofen), formulated in a 2% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose gel through the gelation of SLN suspensions. Compritol® 888 ATO and Tween® 80 were used as a solid lipid and a surfactant, respectively. All production steps were up scalable, resulting in SLNs with high encapsulation efficiency (>90%), a mean particle size of ® Gel 5%) and ibuprofen (Ozonol® 5%). In vivo activity in the rat paw edema inflammation model showed that SLN hydrogels containing lower doses of etofenamate (8.3 times lower) and ibuprofen (16.6 times lower) produced similar effects compared to the commercial formulations, while decreasing edema and inflammatory cell infiltration, and causing no histological changes in the epidermis. These studies demonstrate that encapsulation in SLNs associated to a suitable hydrogel is a promising technological approach to NSAIDs dermal application.

ACS Style

Giuliana Mancini; Lídia Gonçalves; Joana Marto; Filomena Carvalho; Sandra Simões; Helena Ribeiro; António Almeida. Increased Therapeutic Efficacy of SLN Containing Etofenamate and Ibuprofen in Topical Treatment of Inflammation. Pharmaceutics 2021, 13, 328 .

AMA Style

Giuliana Mancini, Lídia Gonçalves, Joana Marto, Filomena Carvalho, Sandra Simões, Helena Ribeiro, António Almeida. Increased Therapeutic Efficacy of SLN Containing Etofenamate and Ibuprofen in Topical Treatment of Inflammation. Pharmaceutics. 2021; 13 (3):328.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Giuliana Mancini; Lídia Gonçalves; Joana Marto; Filomena Carvalho; Sandra Simões; Helena Ribeiro; António Almeida. 2021. "Increased Therapeutic Efficacy of SLN Containing Etofenamate and Ibuprofen in Topical Treatment of Inflammation." Pharmaceutics 13, no. 3: 328.

Journal article
Published: 19 February 2021 in Processes
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There are several approaches to treat ocular diseases, which can be invasive or non-invasive. Within the non-invasive, new pharmaceutical strategies based on nanotechnology and mucoadhesive polymers are emerging methodologies, which aim to reach an efficient treatment of eye diseases. The aim of this work was the development of novel chitosan/hyaluronic acid nanoparticle systems with mucoadhesive properties, intended to encapsulate antioxidant molecules (e.g., crocin) aiming to reduce eye oxidative stress and, consequently, ocular disease. An ultraviolet (UV) absorber molecule, actinoquinol, was also added to the nanoparticles, to further decrease oxidative stress. The developed nanoparticles were characterized and the results showed a mean particle size lower than 400 nm, polydispersity index of 0.220 ± 0.034, positive zeta potential, and high yield. The nanoparticles were also characterized in terms of pH, osmolality, and viscosity. Mucoadhesion studies involving the determination of zeta potential, viscosity, and tackiness, showed a strong interaction between the nanoparticles and mucin. In vitro release studies using synthetic membranes in Franz diffusion cells were conducted to unravel the drug release kinetic profile. Ex vitro studies using pig eye scleras in Franz diffusion cells were performed to evaluate the permeation of the nanoparticles. Furthermore, in vitro assays using the ARPE-19 (adult retinal pigment epithelium) cell line showed that the nanoparticles can efficiently decrease oxidative stress and showed low cytotoxicity. Thus, the developed chitosan/hyaluronic acid nanoparticles are a promising system for the delivery of antioxidants to the eye, by increasing their residence time and controlling their delivery.

ACS Style

Sandra Cordeiro; Beatriz Silva; Ana Martins; Helena Ribeiro; Lídia Gonçalves; Joana Marto. Antioxidant‐Loaded Mucoadhesive Nanoparticles for Eye Drug Delivery: A New Strategy to Reduce Oxidative Stress. Processes 2021, 9, 379 .

AMA Style

Sandra Cordeiro, Beatriz Silva, Ana Martins, Helena Ribeiro, Lídia Gonçalves, Joana Marto. Antioxidant‐Loaded Mucoadhesive Nanoparticles for Eye Drug Delivery: A New Strategy to Reduce Oxidative Stress. Processes. 2021; 9 (2):379.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sandra Cordeiro; Beatriz Silva; Ana Martins; Helena Ribeiro; Lídia Gonçalves; Joana Marto. 2021. "Antioxidant‐Loaded Mucoadhesive Nanoparticles for Eye Drug Delivery: A New Strategy to Reduce Oxidative Stress." Processes 9, no. 2: 379.

Research article
Published: 27 November 2020 in Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology
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This study aimed to develop and validate a method for the analysis of caffeine in complex cosmetic samples, such as sunscreens. Besides, an extraction method of caffeine from coffee oil and from creams, which contains both lipophilic and hydrophilic components, has been developed. The method to analyze caffeine was developed using an isocratic pump, Waters 1515 and an automatic injector Perkin-Elmer Series 200 and an UV detector Perkin-Elmer. As stationary phase, Kromasil C-18 (150 × 4.6 mm ID with particle size of 5 µm) column was used and a mixture of water (pH 4.00)/acetonitrile (80:20, V/V) with a flow rate of 1.5 mL/min as a mobile phase. To extract the caffeine from the formulations and coffee oil, different agitation methods, solvents, and number of treatments were evaluated. The relationship between chromatographic areas and concentration of caffeine presents a linear correlation within the range 0.05–5.00 µg/mL. The precision of this method was very high, as the coefficients of variation were always lower than 6%. The DL of this technique was 3.71 ηg/mL and the QL was 11.23 ηg/mL. Three replicates of the samples obtained by the extraction method were processed obtaining a concentration of caffeine in creams between the experimental and theoretical average value of 7.48%. The literature report methodologies only in aqueous medium, different from this methodology that is fast, economical and can be used in Quality Control in the cosmetic industry. The extraction method of caffeine from matrices has also been successfully developed with absence of interferences. Graphical Abstract

ACS Style

Ana Melero; Antonio Guillot; Carlos Carneiro; Hugo Nuñez-Sanchez; Laura Rodríguez-Martí; Bruna Galdorfini Chiari-Andréo; Joana Marto; Helena Ribeiro; Teresa Garrigues; Vera Isaac. Caffeine analysis and extraction from a topical cream intended for UV-skin protection. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology 2020, 1 -7.

AMA Style

Ana Melero, Antonio Guillot, Carlos Carneiro, Hugo Nuñez-Sanchez, Laura Rodríguez-Martí, Bruna Galdorfini Chiari-Andréo, Joana Marto, Helena Ribeiro, Teresa Garrigues, Vera Isaac. Caffeine analysis and extraction from a topical cream intended for UV-skin protection. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology. 2020; ():1-7.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Ana Melero; Antonio Guillot; Carlos Carneiro; Hugo Nuñez-Sanchez; Laura Rodríguez-Martí; Bruna Galdorfini Chiari-Andréo; Joana Marto; Helena Ribeiro; Teresa Garrigues; Vera Isaac. 2020. "Caffeine analysis and extraction from a topical cream intended for UV-skin protection." Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology , no. : 1-7.

Journal article
Published: 22 October 2020 in Molecules
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With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.

ACS Style

Sara Bom; Manuel Fitas; Ana Margarida Martins; Pedro Pinto; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions. Molecules 2020, 25, 4887 .

AMA Style

Sara Bom, Manuel Fitas, Ana Margarida Martins, Pedro Pinto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Joana Marto. Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions. Molecules. 2020; 25 (21):4887.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sara Bom; Manuel Fitas; Ana Margarida Martins; Pedro Pinto; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2020. "Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions." Molecules 25, no. 21: 4887.

Original article
Published: 08 October 2020 in Journal of Sensory Studies
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About half of the population aged over 60 years mention they have an olfactory dysfunction. However, the diagnosis is challenging since the identification of odors is personal and cultural, conditioning the selection of effective olfactory tests. This study aimed to identify typical odors recognized by the Portuguese population in order to develop and characterize a smell test kit adapted to this specific population to be used to diagnose olfactory dysfunctions. For this, a national cross‐sectional survey with 348 healthy participants, allowed the identification of 22 characteristic odors for Portuguese population. The orange odor was chosen by 56% of the individuals that answered the survey and this fragrance was selected for pre‐formulation studies. Then, polyethylene glycol (PEG)‐based formulations were developed and characterized. It was observed that the type and amount of PEG and fragrances influenced the rheology, morphology, texture and crystalline structures of the formulations. Based on the results obtained, structure characterization and sensorial analysis responses, compounding and processing, a formulation was selected. Then, the kit was assembled with 22 fragrance PEG‐based formulations and one odorless (control). Practical application This study aimed to identify 22 odors among different categories recognizable by the Portuguese population in order to develop a suitable smell test kit to diagnose olfactory dysfunctions of this specific population. This Portuguese smell test, for containing formulations with rheological and sensory characteristics adapted to the Portuguese population, allows the physician to use it as a method of diagnosis in patients with suspected impaired olfactory perception, such as anosmia total or partial. Nowadays, this kit is being used in otorhinolaryngology medical consultation of the hospital involved in the study to diagnose olfactory disorders.

ACS Style

Carolina Chaves; Joana Marto; Mário Santos; Filipa Duarte‐Ramos; Armando Alcobia; Luís Antunes; M. Rosário Bronze; Helena Ribeiro. Development of a Portuguese smell test: A novel hospital compounding formulation to improve diagnosis of olfactory dysfunction. Journal of Sensory Studies 2020, 36, 1 .

AMA Style

Carolina Chaves, Joana Marto, Mário Santos, Filipa Duarte‐Ramos, Armando Alcobia, Luís Antunes, M. Rosário Bronze, Helena Ribeiro. Development of a Portuguese smell test: A novel hospital compounding formulation to improve diagnosis of olfactory dysfunction. Journal of Sensory Studies. 2020; 36 (1):1.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Carolina Chaves; Joana Marto; Mário Santos; Filipa Duarte‐Ramos; Armando Alcobia; Luís Antunes; M. Rosário Bronze; Helena Ribeiro. 2020. "Development of a Portuguese smell test: A novel hospital compounding formulation to improve diagnosis of olfactory dysfunction." Journal of Sensory Studies 36, no. 1: 1.

Journal article
Published: 31 July 2020 in Cosmetics
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Pickering emulsions are systems composed of two immiscible fluids stabilized by solid organic or inorganic particles. Pickering emulsions are particularly useful in cosmetics, where the surfactants are unwanted, as well as in the pharmaceutical field, where transdermal and/or dermal drug delivery is difficult to achieve and controlled drug release is desired. Here, we studied calcium carbonate particles as stabilizers of Pickering emulsions for topical use. An optimized formulation was obtained using a Quality by Design approach. First, a screening experiment was performed to identify the formulation and process critical variables that affect the quality properties of the Pickering emulsion. The optimization of the production was then studied by establishing the design space. The final formulation was hereinafter investigated regarding the pH, rheological properties, and in vitro cytotoxicity assays. The results showed the formulation had a pH compatible with human skin and a shear thinning behavior. Moreover, this formulation showed a strong network structure, with a suitable spreadability on the skin, allowing an easy application. The in vitro assays were performed to assess the potential cytotoxicity of the calcium carbonate-stabilized emulsion and the particles themselves, and the results revealed that the formulation did not significantly affect the cell viability. In conclusion, the use of calcium carbonate particles as a stabilizer ingredient contributed to achieve an eco-friendly Pickering emulsion.

ACS Style

Joana Marto; Andreia Nunes; Ana Margarida Martins; João Carvalheira; Pedro Prazeres; Lídia Gonçalves; Alexandre Marques; António Lucas; Helena Margarida Ribeiro. Pickering Emulsions Stabilized by Calcium Carbonate Particles: A New Topical Formulation. Cosmetics 2020, 7, 62 .

AMA Style

Joana Marto, Andreia Nunes, Ana Margarida Martins, João Carvalheira, Pedro Prazeres, Lídia Gonçalves, Alexandre Marques, António Lucas, Helena Margarida Ribeiro. Pickering Emulsions Stabilized by Calcium Carbonate Particles: A New Topical Formulation. Cosmetics. 2020; 7 (3):62.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Joana Marto; Andreia Nunes; Ana Margarida Martins; João Carvalheira; Pedro Prazeres; Lídia Gonçalves; Alexandre Marques; António Lucas; Helena Margarida Ribeiro. 2020. "Pickering Emulsions Stabilized by Calcium Carbonate Particles: A New Topical Formulation." Cosmetics 7, no. 3: 62.

Journal article
Published: 31 July 2020 in Pharmaceutics
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The development of printable hydrogel inks for extrusion-based 3D printing is opening new possibilities to the production of new and/or improved pharmaceutical forms, specifically for topical application. Alginate and starch are natural polysaccharides that have been extensively exploited due to their biocompatibility, biodegradability, viscosity properties, low toxicity, and relatively low cost. This research work aimed to study the physicochemical and release kinetic effects of starch incorporation in alginate-based 3D hydrogel patches for topical delivery using a quality by design approach. The incorporation of a pregelatinized starch is also proposed as a way to improve the properties of the drug delivery system while maintaining the desired quality characteristics. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified, and the sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed. The impact of alginate, starch, and CaCl2·2H2O amounts on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The amount of starch revealed a synergetic impact on porosity (p = 0.0021). An evident increase in the size and quantity of open pores were detected in the as printed patches as well as after crosslinking (15.6 ± 5.2 µm). In vitro drug release studies from the optimized alginate-starch 3D hydrogel patch, using the probe Rhodamine B, showed an initial high burst release, followed by a controlled release mechanism. The results obtained also showed that the viscoelastic properties, printing accuracy, gelation time, microstructure, and release rates can be modulated by varying the amount of starch added to the system. Furthermore, these results can be considered an excellent baseline for future drug release modulation strategies.

ACS Style

Sara Bom; Catarina Santos; Rita Barros; Ana M. Martins; Patrizia Paradiso; Ricardo Cláudio; Pedro Contreiras Pinto; Helena M. Ribeiro; Joana Marto. Effects of Starch Incorporation on the Physicochemical Properties and Release Kinetics of Alginate-Based 3D Hydrogel Patches for Topical Delivery. Pharmaceutics 2020, 12, 719 .

AMA Style

Sara Bom, Catarina Santos, Rita Barros, Ana M. Martins, Patrizia Paradiso, Ricardo Cláudio, Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Helena M. Ribeiro, Joana Marto. Effects of Starch Incorporation on the Physicochemical Properties and Release Kinetics of Alginate-Based 3D Hydrogel Patches for Topical Delivery. Pharmaceutics. 2020; 12 (8):719.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sara Bom; Catarina Santos; Rita Barros; Ana M. Martins; Patrizia Paradiso; Ricardo Cláudio; Pedro Contreiras Pinto; Helena M. Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2020. "Effects of Starch Incorporation on the Physicochemical Properties and Release Kinetics of Alginate-Based 3D Hydrogel Patches for Topical Delivery." Pharmaceutics 12, no. 8: 719.

Journal article
Published: 11 July 2020 in Antioxidants
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Skin aging is a biological process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The last ones, mainly exposure to UV radiation, increases reactive oxygen species (ROS) production leading to a loss of extracellular matrix, also enhanced by enzymatic degradation of matrix supporting molecules. Thus, and with the growing demand for eco-friendly skin products, natural compounds extracted from brown seaweeds revealed to be good candidates due to their broad range of bioactivities, especially as antioxidants. The aim of this study was to assess the dermo-cosmetic potential of different fractions obtained from the brown seaweed Fucus spiralis. For this purpose, in vitro antioxidant (Total Phenolic Content (TPC), 1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP), Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC)), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase), antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory (NO production) and photoprotective (ROS production) capacities were evaluated. Although nearly all fractions evidenced antioxidant effects, fraction F10 demonstrated the highest antioxidant ability (EC50 of 38.5 µg/mL, DPPH assay), and exhibited a strong effect as an inhibitor of collagenase (0.037 µg/mL) and elastase (3.0 µg/mL). Moreover, this fraction was also the most potent on reducing ROS production promoted by H2O2 (IC50 of 41.3 µg/mL) and by UVB (IC50 of 31.3 µg/mL). These bioactivities can be attributed to its high content of phlorotannins, as evaluated by LC-MS analysis, reinforcing the potential of F. spiralis for further dermatological applications.

ACS Style

Rafaela Freitas; Alice Martins; Joana Silva; Celso Alves; Susete Pinteus; Joana Alves; Fernando Teodoro; Helena Ribeiro; Lídia Gonçalves; Željko Petrovski; Luís Branco; Rui Pedrosa. Highlighting the Biological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Fucus spiralis for Skin Applications. Antioxidants 2020, 9, 611 .

AMA Style

Rafaela Freitas, Alice Martins, Joana Silva, Celso Alves, Susete Pinteus, Joana Alves, Fernando Teodoro, Helena Ribeiro, Lídia Gonçalves, Željko Petrovski, Luís Branco, Rui Pedrosa. Highlighting the Biological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Fucus spiralis for Skin Applications. Antioxidants. 2020; 9 (7):611.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Rafaela Freitas; Alice Martins; Joana Silva; Celso Alves; Susete Pinteus; Joana Alves; Fernando Teodoro; Helena Ribeiro; Lídia Gonçalves; Željko Petrovski; Luís Branco; Rui Pedrosa. 2020. "Highlighting the Biological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Fucus spiralis for Skin Applications." Antioxidants 9, no. 7: 611.

Original article
Published: 28 April 2020 in Journal of Surfactants and Detergents
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Naturally derived surfactants in hair care products are a trend in cosmetic technology. This study aimed to formulate and fully characterize the performance of shampoos with sugar‐derived surfactants, namely, the alkyl polyglucosides decyl glucoside and coco‐glucoside. In addition, different thickeners and conditioning ingredients were added to improve the formulation properties. A sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) formulation was used as control. Rheology, pH, foaming, contact angles on a keratin surface, and surface tensions were determined. The safety of the formulations was evaluated by in vitro cytotoxicity studies using the human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line and human retinal pigment epithelial cells ARPE‐19. The efficacies were studied by in vitro hair combing force assays and in vivo sensorial analysis. The formulated sugar surfactant‐based shampoos showed the following properties: (i) pH values higher than those of SLES (which were posteriorly lowered with lactic acid); (ii) higher foamability than SLES, and high wettability; (iii) Newtonian behavior and predominance of liquid state with a suitable viscosity; (iv) low cytotoxicity in both human keratinocytes and retinal cell lines (in contrast to SLES); (v) easier hair combing than SLES, when Polyquaternium‐7 was used as conditioner; (vi) efficient and gentle hair washing; and (vii) favorable sensorial analysis confirming the previous washing properties. In conclusion, the sugar surfactants had a considerable impact in the properties of the shampoo formulations, in terms of both hair cleansing properties and efficacy, as demonstrated here. These favorable outcomes clearly support the use of these ingredients in shampoo formulation design.

ACS Style

Andreia Nunes; Paula Marques; Joana Marto; Andreia Ascenso; Lídia Gonçalves; Manuel Fitas; Pedro Pinto; João Sotomayor; Helena M. Ribeiro. Sugar Surfactant‐Based Shampoos. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents 2020, 23, 809 -819.

AMA Style

Andreia Nunes, Paula Marques, Joana Marto, Andreia Ascenso, Lídia Gonçalves, Manuel Fitas, Pedro Pinto, João Sotomayor, Helena M. Ribeiro. Sugar Surfactant‐Based Shampoos. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents. 2020; 23 (4):809-819.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Andreia Nunes; Paula Marques; Joana Marto; Andreia Ascenso; Lídia Gonçalves; Manuel Fitas; Pedro Pinto; João Sotomayor; Helena M. Ribeiro. 2020. "Sugar Surfactant‐Based Shampoos." Journal of Surfactants and Detergents 23, no. 4: 809-819.

Journal article
Published: 26 April 2020 in Pharmaceutics
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Hypopigmentation is a progressive dermatological condition caused by a reduction in the skin pigment, melanin. Its treatment is considered a challenge due to the lack of a highly efficient single therapy. Currently, the main treatments include photochemotherapy, application of corticosteroids and immunosuppressants, and laser. Khellin-based gel-in-oil emulsions appear as a promising alternative since they ensure a concentration of the drug, a natural furanochromone, at the desired location, skin surface. Khellin promotes repigmentation as it forms a dark colored complex after solar irradiation. The aim of this study was the development and characterization (e.g., rheological behaviour, droplet size, tackiness, adhesion and spreadability) of three topical gel-in-oil emulsions prepared with different emollients, formulated through a cold emulsification process, and suitable for the incorporation of khellin. In vitro studies were performed to evaluate the drug release and permeation profiles across artificial membranes and excised human skin, respectively, using Franz-type vertical diffusion cells. The W/O emulsions developed showed macroscopic appearance, shear-thinning behavior with a mean droplet size from 3.28 to 4.28 μm, suitable for topical application. In vitro studies revealed permeation values of about 1% of khellin across the stratum corneum, making these gel-in-oil emulsions promising for preclinical and clinical studies. The cold process, being an easy and low energy production method, represents an innovative strategy to produce khellin-based gel-in-oil emulsions to treat patients with hypopigmentation.

ACS Style

Joana Pereira; Rita Gonçalves; Margarida Barreto; Clarisse Dias; Fátima Carvalho; António J. Almeida; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. Development of Gel-in-Oil Emulsions for Khellin Topical Delivery. Pharmaceutics 2020, 12, 398 .

AMA Style

Joana Pereira, Rita Gonçalves, Margarida Barreto, Clarisse Dias, Fátima Carvalho, António J. Almeida, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Joana Marto. Development of Gel-in-Oil Emulsions for Khellin Topical Delivery. Pharmaceutics. 2020; 12 (5):398.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Joana Pereira; Rita Gonçalves; Margarida Barreto; Clarisse Dias; Fátima Carvalho; António J. Almeida; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2020. "Development of Gel-in-Oil Emulsions for Khellin Topical Delivery." Pharmaceutics 12, no. 5: 398.

Journal article
Published: 14 April 2020 in Pharmaceutics
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Human neutrophil elastase (HNE) is a serine protease that degrades matrix proteins. An excess of HNE may trigger several pathological conditions, such as psoriasis. In this work, we aimed to synthesize, characterize and formulate new HNE inhibitors with a 4-oxo-β-lactam scaffold with less toxicity, as well as therapeutic index in a psoriasis context. HNE inhibitors with 4-oxo-β-lactam scaffolds were synthesized and characterized by NMR, FTIR, melting point, mass spectrometry and elemental analysis. In vitro cytotoxicity and serine protease assays were performed. The compound with the highest cell viability (AAN-16) was selected to be incorporated in an emulsion (AAN-16 E) and in a microemulsion (AAN-16 ME). Formulations were characterized in terms of organoleptic properties, pH, rheology, droplet size distribution, in vitro drug release and in vivo psoriatic activity. All compounds were successfully synthesized according to analytical methodology, with good yields. Both formulations presented suitable physicochemical properties. AAN-16 E presented the most promising therapeutic effects in a murine model of psoriasis. Overall, new HNE inhibitors were synthesized with high and selective activity and incorporated into topical emulsions with potential to treat psoriasis.

ACS Style

Andreia Nunes; Joana Marto; Lídia Maria Gonçalves; Sandra Simões; Rita Félix; Andreia Ascenso; Francisca Lopes; Helena Margarida Ribeiro. Novel and Modified Neutrophil Elastase Inhibitor Loaded in Topical Formulations for Psoriasis Management. Pharmaceutics 2020, 12, 358 .

AMA Style

Andreia Nunes, Joana Marto, Lídia Maria Gonçalves, Sandra Simões, Rita Félix, Andreia Ascenso, Francisca Lopes, Helena Margarida Ribeiro. Novel and Modified Neutrophil Elastase Inhibitor Loaded in Topical Formulations for Psoriasis Management. Pharmaceutics. 2020; 12 (4):358.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Andreia Nunes; Joana Marto; Lídia Maria Gonçalves; Sandra Simões; Rita Félix; Andreia Ascenso; Francisca Lopes; Helena Margarida Ribeiro. 2020. "Novel and Modified Neutrophil Elastase Inhibitor Loaded in Topical Formulations for Psoriasis Management." Pharmaceutics 12, no. 4: 358.

Review
Published: 26 March 2020 in Cells
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Psoriasis is a common non-communicable chronic immune-mediated skin disease, affecting approximately 125 million people in the world. Its pathogenesis results from a combination of genetic and environmental factors. The pathogenesis of psoriasis seems to be driven by the interaction between innate immune cells, adaptive immune cells and keratinocytes, in a process mediated by cytokines (including interleukins (IL)-6, IL-17 and IL-22, interferon and tumor necrosis factor) and other signaling molecules. This leads to an inflammatory process with increased proliferation of epidermal cells, neo-angiogenesis and infiltration of dendritic cells in the skin. Dysfunctional de novo glucocorticoid synthesis in psoriatic keratinocytes and the skin microbiome have also been suggested as mediators in the pathogenesis of this disease. To understand psoriasis, it is essential to comprehend the processes underlying the skin immunity and neuroendocrinology. This review paper focuses on the skin as a neuroendocrine organ and summarizes what is known about the skin immune system, the brain–skin connection and the role played by the serotonergic system in skin. Subsequently, the alterations of neuroimmune processes and of the serotonergic system in psoriatic skin are discussed, as well as, briefly, the genetic basis of psoriasis.

ACS Style

Ana M. Martins; Andreia Ascenso; Helena M. Ribeiro; Joana Marto. The Brain–Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System. Cells 2020, 9, 796 .

AMA Style

Ana M. Martins, Andreia Ascenso, Helena M. Ribeiro, Joana Marto. The Brain–Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System. Cells. 2020; 9 (4):796.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Ana M. Martins; Andreia Ascenso; Helena M. Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2020. "The Brain–Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System." Cells 9, no. 4: 796.

Reviews
Published: 15 February 2020 in Molecular Neurobiology
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Psoriasis is a chronic immune-mediated skin disease, with a pathogenesis resulting from a combination of genetic and environmental factors. The pathogenesis of psoriasis is driven by the interaction between innate and adaptive immune cells and keratinocytes, in a complex process mediated by cytokines and other signaling molecules. This leads to an inflammatory process with increased proliferation of epidermal cells, neo-angiogenesis, and infiltration of white cells in the skin, which cause the characteristic psoriasis plaques. Several studies have suggested that the neurotransmitter serotonin, a key mediator between the skin and the neuroendocrine system, also plays an important role in the pathogenesis of psoriasis. Psoriasis often needs long-term treatment, which can be a burden. Thus, the choice of the treatment is crucial to increase the patients’ adherence and quality of life. This review addresses the currently available systemic and topical treatments for psoriasis, used by themselves or combined with phototherapy. It particularly focuses on the importance of advanced drug delivery systems as a way to increase the drug penetration and retention in the skin, while also enhancing its solubility and stability. Finally, we discuss the role of the serotonin system in psoriasis, and summarize what is known about the effects of antidepressants, in particular specific serotonin reuptake inhibitors, on the physical symptoms of this disease.

ACS Style

Ana Margarida Martins; Andreia Ascenso; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. Current and Future Therapies for Psoriasis with a Focus on Serotonergic Drugs. Molecular Neurobiology 2020, 57, 2391 -2419.

AMA Style

Ana Margarida Martins, Andreia Ascenso, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Joana Marto. Current and Future Therapies for Psoriasis with a Focus on Serotonergic Drugs. Molecular Neurobiology. 2020; 57 (5):2391-2419.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Ana Margarida Martins; Andreia Ascenso; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2020. "Current and Future Therapies for Psoriasis with a Focus on Serotonergic Drugs." Molecular Neurobiology 57, no. 5: 2391-2419.

Journal article
Published: 14 February 2020 in Sustainability
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Assessing sustainability is extremely necessary and appears as an industrial need and requirement in order to facilitate decision making and to evaluate the impacts of existing strategies, products and technologies. Thus, the main goal of this research was to develop a sustainability calculator based on the opinion of experts that work in the different branches of the cosmetic industry, in order to cover the entire life cycle of a cosmetic product. A detailed survey in which all the steps of a cosmetic product life cycle were addressed, was designed and applied to cosmetic professionals. The data obtained with the survey was statistically analysed for the positive and negative impacts of each parameter on sustainability. The analysed data allowed the creation of a Microsoft Excel tool that mirrors the experts’ opinion. A proof of concept was also designed in order to prove the usefulness of the tool. The results show that there are no raw materials and/or packaging materials and practices, that can be considered 100% sustainable. However, with the appropriate strategies, it is possible to drastically decrease the impacts of any type of cosmetic product on sustainability. This is a promising tool that includes the three dimensions of sustainability in a simple, fast, objective and interactive way for the user. Its application will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision.

ACS Style

Sara Bom; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. Sustainability Calculator: A Tool to Assess Sustainability in Cosmetic Products. Sustainability 2020, 12, 1437 .

AMA Style

Sara Bom, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Joana Marto. Sustainability Calculator: A Tool to Assess Sustainability in Cosmetic Products. Sustainability. 2020; 12 (4):1437.

Chicago/Turabian Style

Sara Bom; Helena Margarida Ribeiro; Joana Marto. 2020. "Sustainability Calculator: A Tool to Assess Sustainability in Cosmetic Products." Sustainability 12, no. 4: 1437.