The influence of wind on extreme wave events in deep water is investigated experimentally and numerically. A series of experiments conducted in the Large Air–Sea Interactions Facility (LASIF-Marseille, France) shows that wind blowing over a short wave group due to the dispersive focusing of a longer frequency-modulated wavetrain (chirped wave packet) may increase the time duration of the extreme wave event by delaying the defocusing stage. A detailed analysis of the experimental results suggests that extreme wave events may be sustained longer by the air flow separation occurring on the leeward side of the steep crests. Furthermore it is found that the frequency downshifting observed during the formation of the extreme wave event is more important when the wind velocity is larger. These experiments have pointed out that the transfer of momentum and energy is strongly increased during extreme wave events.Two series of numerical simulations have been performed using a pressure distribution over the steep crests given by the Jeffreys sheltering theory. The first series corresponding to the dispersive focusing confirms the experimental results. The second series which corresponds to extreme wave events due to modulational instability, shows that wind sustains steep waves which then evolve into breaking waves. Furthermore, it was shown numerically that during extreme wave events the wind-driven current could play a significant role in their persistence.
1 September 2006 in European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids
The head-on collision of two equal and two unequal steep solitary waves is investigated numerically. The former case is equivalent to the reflection of one solitary wave by a vertical wall when viscosity is neglected. We have performed a series of numerical simulations based on a Boundary Integral Equation Method (BIEM) on finite depth to investigate during the collision the maximum runup, phase shift, wall residence time and acceleration field for arbitrary values of the non-linearity parameter a/h, where a is the amplitude of initial solitary waves and h the constant water depth. The initial solitary waves are calculated numerically from the fully nonlinear equations. The present work extends previous results on the runup and wall residence time calculation to the collision of very steep counter propagating solitary waves. Furthermore, a new phenomenon corresponding to the occurrence of a residual jet is found for wave amplitudes larger than a threshold value.