Wave dissipation by breaking, or the energy transfer from the surface wave field to currents and turbulence, is one of the least understood components of air–sea interaction. It is important for a better understanding of the coupling between the surface wave field and the upper layers of the ocean and for improved surface-wave prediction schemes. Simple scaling arguments show that the wave dissipation per unit length of breaking crest, ϵ_l, should be proportional to ρ_wgc⁵, where ρ_w is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity and c is the phase speed of the breaking wave. The proportionality factor, or ‘breaking parameter’ b, has been poorly constrained by experiments and field measurements, although our earlier work has suggested that it should be dependent on measures of the wave slope and spectral bandwidth. In this paper we describe inertial scaling arguments for the energy lost by plunging breakers which predict that the breaking parameter b = β(hk)^5/2, where hk is a local breaking slope parameter, and β is a parameter of O(1). This prediction is tested with laboratory measurements of breaking due to dispersive focusing of wave packets in a wave channel. Good agreement is found within the scatter of the data. We also find that if an integral linear measure of the maximum slope of the wave packet, S, is used instead of hk, then b ∝ S^2.77 gives better agreement with the data. During the final preparation of this paper we became aware of similar experiments by Banner & Peirson (2007) concentrating on the threshold for breaking at lower wave slopes, using a measure of the rate of focusing of wave energy to correlate measurements of b. We discuss the significance of these results in the context of recent measurements and modelling of surface wave processes.

It is now well accepted that to better understand the coupling between the atmosphere and the ocean, and improve coupled ocean–atmosphere models, surface wave processes need to be taken into account. Here, properties of the directional distributions of the surface wave field across the equilibrium and saturation ranges are investigated from airborne lidar data collected during the ONR Southern California 2013 (SoCal2013) experiment, conducted off the coast of Southern California in November 2013. During the field effort, detailed characterization of the marine atmospheric boundary layer was performed from Research Platform (R/P) Floating Instrument Platform (FLIP), moored at the center of the aircraft operational domain. The wind speed ranged from approximately 1–2 to up to 11 m s⁻¹, while the significant wave height varied from 0.8 to 2.5 m during the 10 days of data collection considered in the analysis. The directional wavenumber spectrum exhibits a clear, bimodal distribution that extends well beyond what was reported in previous studies, with the azimuthal separation between the lobes reaching ≈π for the highest wavenumbers that could be resolved: approximately 10–12 rad m⁻¹. The results demonstrate that opposing wave components can be found in one storm system rather than requiring waves from opposing storms, with implications for ocean acoustics. With the broad wavenumber range of the directional spectra obtained from the lidar, the transition from the equilibrium to saturation ranges over a range of wind forcing conditions is found to occur for ≈ 1–2 × 10⁻³, where k_n is the wavenumber at the upper limit of the equilibrium range, u_* the friction velocity, and g the gravitational acceleration. The results are discussed in the context of Phillips’ model of the equilibrium range of wind-generated gravity waves.

An analysis of coherent measurements of winds and waves from data collected during the Office of Naval Research (ONR) High-Resolution air–sea interaction (HiRes) program, from the Floating Instrument Platform (R/P FLIP), off the coast of northern California in June 2010 is presented. A suite of wind and wave measuring systems was deployed to resolve the modulation of the marine atmospheric boundary layer by waves. Spectral analysis of the data provided the wave-induced components of the wind velocity for various wind–wave conditions. The power spectral density, the amplitude, and the phase (relative to the waves) of these wave-induced components are computed and bin averaged over spectral wave age c/U(z) or c/u*, where c is the linear phase speed of the waves, U(z) is the mean wind speed measured at the height z of the anemometer, and u* is the friction velocity in the air. Results are qualitatively consistent with the critical layer theory of Miles. Across the critical height zc, defined such that U(zc) = c, the wave-induced vertical and horizontal velocities change significantly in both amplitude and phase. The measured wave-induced momentum flux shows that, for growing waves, less than 10% of the momentum flux at z ≈ 10 m is supported by waves longer than approximately 15 m. For older sea states, these waves are able to generate upward wave-induced momentum flux opposed to the overall downward momentum flux. The measured amplitude of this upward wave-induced momentum flux was up to 20% of the value of the total wind stress when Cp/u* > 60, where Cp is the phase speed at the peak of the wave spectrum.

The deployment and recovery of autonomous or remotely piloted platforms from research vessels have become a way of significantly extending the capabilities and reach of the research fleet. This paper describes the use of ship-launched and ship-recovered Boeing–Insitu ScanEagle unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs). The UAVs were instrumented to characterize the marine atmospheric boundary layer (MABL) structure and dynamics, and to measure ocean surface processes during the October 2012 Equatorial Mixing (EquatorMix) experiment in the central Pacific and during the July 2013 Trident Warrior experiment off the Virginia coast. The UAV measurements, including atmospheric momentum and radiative, sensible, and latent heat fluxes, are complemented by measurements from ship-based instrumentation, including a foremast MABL eddy-covariance system, lidar altimeters, and a digitized X-band radar system. During EquatorMix, UAV measurements reveal longitudinal atmospheric roll structures not sampled by ship measurements, which contribute significantly to vertical fluxes of heat and momentum. With the nadir-looking UAV lidar, surface signatures of internal waves are observed, consistent and coherent with measurements from ship-based X-band radar, a Hydrographic Doppler Sonar System, and a theoretical model. In the Trident Warrior experiment, the instrumented UAVs were used to demonstrate real-time data assimilation of meteorological data from UAVs into regional coupled ocean–atmosphere models. The instrumented UAVs have provided unprecedented spatiotemporal resolution in atmospheric and oceanographic measurements in remote ocean locations, demonstrating the capabilities of these platforms to extend the range and capabilities of the research fleet for oceanographic and atmospheric studies.

Instrumentation packages have been developed for small (18–28 kg) unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to measure momentum fluxes as well as latent, sensible, and radiative heat fluxes in the atmospheric boundary layer (ABL) and the topography below. Fast-response turbulence, hygrometer, and temperature probes permit turbulent momentum and heat flux measurements, and shortwave and longwave radiometers allow the determination of net radiation, surface temperature, and albedo. UAVs flying in vertical formation allow the direct measurement of fluxes within the ABL and, with onboard high-resolution visible and infrared video and laser altimetry, simultaneous observation of surface topography or ocean surface waves. The low altitude required for accurate flux measurements (typically assumed to be 30 m) is below the typical safety limit of manned research aircraft; however, with advances in laser altimeters, small-aircraft flight control, and real-time kinematic differential GPS, low-altitude flight is now within the capability of small UAV platforms. Flight tests of instrumented BAE Systems Manta C1 UAVs over land were conducted in January 2011 at McMillan Airfield (Camp Roberts, California). Flight tests of similarly instrumented Boeing Insitu ScanEagle UAVs were conducted in April 2012 at the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Dahlgren Division (Dahlgren, Virginia), where the first known measurements of water vapor, heat, and momentum fluxes were made from low-altitude (down to 30 m) UAV flights over water (Potomac River). This study presents a description of the instrumentation, summarizes results from flight tests, and discusses potential applications of these UAVs for (marine) atmospheric boundary layer studies.

We present an estimate of the total volume of entrained air by breaking waves in the open ocean, based on a model for a single breaking wave and the statistics of breaking waves measured in the field and described by the average length of breaking crests moving with speeds in the range (c,c + dc) per unit area of ocean surface, Λ(c)dc, introduced by Phillips (1985). By extending the single breaking wave model to the open ocean, we show that the volume flux of air entrained by breaking waves, V_A (volume per unit ocean area per unit time, a velocity), is given by the third moment of Λ(c), modulated by a function of the wave slope. Using field measurements of the distribution Λ(c) and the wave spectrum, we obtain an estimate of the total volume flux of air entrained by breaking for a wide range of wind and wave conditions. These results pave the way for accurate remote sensing of the air entrained by breaking waves and subsequent estimates of the associated gas transfer.