We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crested and steep waves are more likely to be populated by freak waves with respect to those characterized by a large directional spreading.

The nonlinear evolution of deep-water wave groups, which are initiated by unstable three-wave systems, have been observed in a large wave tank (50 m long, 4.2 m wide, 2.1 m deep), equipped with a programmable, high-resolution wave generator. A large number of experiments were conducted (over 80 cases) for waves 1.0–4.0 m long, initial steepness ε=0.10–0.28, and normalized sideband frequency differences, δω=δω, 0.2–1.4. Using an array of eight high-resolution wave wires distributed in range (up to 43 m fetch), spectral evolution was studied in detail including the effect of background disturbances on the evolution. Minimizing those, new observations were made which extend the pioneering work of Lake et al. (1977) and of Melville (1982). Foremost, near recurrence without downshifting was observed without breaking, despite a significant but reversible energy transfer to the lower sideband at peak modulation; complete recurrence was prevented by the spreading of discretized energy to higher frequencies. Strong breaking was found to increase the transfer of energy from the higher to the lower sideband and to render that transfer irreversible. The end state of the evolution following strong breaking is an effective downshifting of the spectral energy, where the lower and the carrier wave amplitudes nearly coincide; the further evolution of this almost two-wave system was not studied here. Breaking during strong modulation was observed not only for the fastest growing initial condition, but over a wide parameter range. An explanation of the sideband behaviour in both the breaking and non-breaking case was given based on wave energy and momentum considerations, including the separate effects of energy and momentum loss due to breaking, and transfer to discretized higher frequencies throughout the spectra. Attention was drawn to the latter, which was almost universally observed.

The evolution of a random directional wave in deep water was studied in a laboratory wave tank (50 m long, 10 m wide, 5 m deep) utilizing a directional wave generator. A number of experiments were conducted, changing the various spectral parameters (wave steepness 0.05 < ɛ < 0.11, with directional spreading up to 36° and frequency bandwidth 0.2 < δk/k < 0.6). The wave evolution was studied by an array of wave wires distributed down the tank. As the spectral parameters were altered, the wave height statistics change. Without any wave directionality, the occurrence of waves exceeding twice the significant wave height (the freak wave) increases as the frequency bandwidth narrows and steepness increases, due to quasi-resonant wave–wave interaction. However, the probability of an extreme wave rapidly reduces as the directional bandwidth broadens. The effective Benjamin–Feir index (BFIeff) is introduced, extending the BFI (the relative magnitude of nonlinearity and dispersion) to incorporate the effect of directionality, and successfully parameterizes the observed occurrence of freak waves in the tank. Analysis of the high-resolution hindcast wave field of the northwest Pacific reveals that such a directionally confined wind sea with high extreme wave probability is rare and corresponds mostly to a swell–wind sea mixed condition. Therefore, extreme wave occurrence in the sea as a result of quasi-resonant wave–wave interaction is a rare event that occurs only when the wind sea directionality is extremely narrow.

Interaction with an opposing current amplifies wave modulation and accelerates nonlinear wave focusing in regular wavepackets. This results in large-amplitude waves, usually known as rogue waves, even if the wave conditions are less prone to extremes. Laboratory experiments in three independent facilities are presented here to assess the role of opposing currents in changing the statistical properties of unidirectional and directional mechanically generated random wavefields. The results demonstrate in a consistent and robust manner that opposing currents induce a sharp and rapid transition from weakly to strongly non-Gaussian properties. This is associated with a substantial increase in the probability of occurrence of rogue waves for unidirectional and directional sea states, for which the occurrence of extreme and rogue waves is normally the least expected.

The long-term trend of extreme ocean waves in the emerging ice-free waters of the summer Arctic is studied using ERA-Interim wave reanalysis, with validation by two drifting wave buoys deployed in summer 2016. The 38-year-long reanalysis dataset reveals an increase in the expected largest significant wave height from 2.3 m to 3.1 m in the ice-free water from the Laptev to the Beaufort Seas during October. The trend is highly correlated with the expected increase in highest wind speed from 12.0 m/s to 14.2 m/s over the ice-free ocean, and less so with the extent of the ice-free water. Since the storms in this area did not strengthen throughout the analysis period, the increase in the expected largest significant wave height follows from the enhanced probability of storms in ice-free waters, which is pertinent to the estimation of extreme sea conditions along the Northern Sea Route.