Melanogenesis is a biosynthetic pathway for the formation of the pigment melanin in human skin. A key enzyme, tyrosinase, catalyzes the first and only rate-limiting steps in melanogenesis, and the down-regulation of enzyme activity is the most reported method for the inhibition of melanogenesis. Because of the cosmetically important issue of hyperpigmentation, there is a big demand for melanogenesis inhibitors. This encourages researchers to seek potent melanogenesis inhibitors for cosmetic uses. This article reviews melanogenesis inhibitors that have been recently discovered from natural sources. The reaction mechanisms of the inhibitors on tyrosinase activity are also discussed.

Melanogenesis inhibition by raspberry ketone (RK) from Rheum officinale was investigated both in vitro in cultivated murine B16 melanoma cells and in vivo in zebrafish and mice. In B16 cells, RK inhibited melanogenesis through a post-transcriptional regulation of tyrosinase gene expression, which resulted in down regulation of both cellular tyrosinase activity and the amount of tyrosinase protein, while the level of tyrosinase mRNA transcription was not affected. In zebrafish, RK also inhibited melanogenesis by reduction of tyrosinase activity. In mice, application of a 0.2% or 2% gel preparation of RK applied to mouse skin significantly increased the degree of skin whitening within one week of treatment. In contrast to the widely used flavoring properties of RK in perfumery and cosmetics, the skin-whitening potency of RK has been demonstrated in the present study. Based on our findings reported here, RK would appear to have high potential for use in the cosmetics industry.

Daidzein and genistein are two major components of soy isoflavones. They exist abundantly in plants and possess multiple bioactivities. In contrast, ortho-hydroxydaidzein (OHD) and ortho-hydroxygenistein (OHG), including 6-hydroxydaidzein (6-OHD), 8-hydroxydaidzein (8-OHD), 3'-hydroxydaidzein (3'-OHD), 6-hydroxygenistein (6-OHG), 8-hydroxygenistein (8-OHG), and 3'-hydroxygenistein (3'-OHG), are rarely found in plants. Instead, they are usually isolated from fermented soybean foods or microbial fermentation broth feeding with soybean meal. Accordingly, the bioactivity of OHD and OHG has been investigated less compared to that of soy isoflavones. Recently, OHD and OHG were produced by genetically engineering microorganisms through gene cloning of cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzyme systems. This success opens up bioactivity investigation and industrial applications of OHD and OHG in the future. This article reviews isolation of OHD and OHG from non-synthetic sources and production of the compounds by genetically modified microorganisms. Several bioactivities, such as anticancer and antimelanogenesis-related activities, of OHD and OHG, are also discussed.

The present study describes the biotransformation of a commercially available crude extract of soy isoflavones, which contained significant amounts of the soy isoflavone glycosides daidzin and genistin, by recombinant Escherichia coli expressing tyrosinase from Bacillus megaterium. Two major products were isolated from the biotransformation and identified as 3′-hydroxydaidzin and 3′-hydroxygenistin, respectively, based on their mass and nuclear magnetic resonance spectral data. The two 3′-hydroxyisoflavone glycosides showed potent 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging activity with IC₅₀ values of 7.4 and 9.8 μM for 3′-hydroxydaidzin and 3′-hydroxygenistin, respectively. The free radical scavenging activities of the two 3′-hydroxyisoflavone glycosides were, respectively, 120 and 72 times higher than the activity of their precursors, daidzin and genistin, and were also stronger than the activity of ascorbic acid, which showed an IC₅₀ value of 15.1 μM. This is the first report of the bio-production and potential antioxidant applications of both 3′-hydroxydaidzin and 3′-hydroxygenistin.

8-Hydroxydaidzein (8-OHDe), an ortho-hydroxylation derivative of soy isoflavone daidzein isolated from some fermented soybean foods, has been demonstrated to possess potent anti-inflammatory activity. However, the isoflavone aglycone is poorly soluble and unstable in alkaline solutions. To improve the aqueous solubility and stability of the functional isoflavone, 8-OHDe was glucosylated with recombinant amylosucrase of Deinococcus geothermalis (DgAS) with industrial sucrose, instead of expensive uridine diphosphate-glucose (UDP-glucose). One major product was produced from the biotransformation, and identified as 8-OHDe-7-α-glucoside, based on mass and nuclear magnetic resonance spectral analyses. The aqueous solubility and stability of the isoflavone glucoside were determined, and the results showed that the isoflavone glucoside was almost 4-fold more soluble and more than six-fold higher alkaline-stable than 8-OHDe. In addition, the anti-inflammatory activity of 8-OHDe-7-α-glucoside was also determined by the inhibition of lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production in RAW 264.7 cells. The results showed that 8-OHDe-7-α-glucoside exhibited significant and dose-dependent inhibition on the production of nitric oxide, with an IC50 value of 173.2 µM, which remained 20% of the anti-inflammatory activity of 8-OHDe. In conclusion, the well-soluble and alkaline-stable 8-OHDe-7-α-glucoside produced by recombinant DgAS with a cheap substrate, sucrose, as a sugar donor retains moderate anti-inflammatory activity, and could be used in industrial applications in the future.

Homoisoflavanone, sappanone A, was isolated from Caesalpinia sappan and proven to dose-dependently inhibit both melanogenesis and cellular tyrosinase activity via repressing tyrosinase gene expression in mouse B16 melanoma cells. To our knowledge, sappanone A is the first homoisoflavanone to be discovered with melanogenesis inhibitory activity. Our results give a new impetus to the future search for other homoisoflavanone melanogenesis inhibitors.