Skin hyperpigmentation disorders arise due to excessive production of the macromolecular pigment melanin catalyzed by the enzyme tyrosinase. Recently, the therapeutic use of curcumin for inhibiting tyrosinase activity and production of melanin have been recognized, but poor stability and solubility have limited its use, which has inspired synthesis of curcumin analogs. Here, we investigated four novel chemically modified curcumin (CMC) derivatives (CMC2.14, CMC2.5, CMC2.23 and CMC2.24) and compared them to the parent compound curcumin (PC) for inhibition of in vitro tyrosinase activity using two substrates for monophenolase and diphenolase activities of the enzyme and for diminution of cellular melanogenesis. Enzyme kinetics were analyzed using Lineweaver-Burk and Dixon plots and nonlinear curve-fitting to determine the mechanism for tyrosinase inhibition. Copper chelating activity, using pyrocatechol violet dye indicator assay, and antioxidant activity, using a DPPH radical scavenging assay, were also conducted. Next, the capacity of these derivatives to inhibit tyrosinase-catalyzed melanogenesis was studied in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and the mechanisms of inhibition were elucidated. Inhibition mechanisms were studied by measuring intracellular tyrosinase activity, cell-free and intracellular α-glucosidase enzyme activity, and effects on MITF protein level and cAMP maturation factor. Our results showed that CMC2.24 showed the greatest efficacy as a tyrosinase inhibitor of all the CMCs and was better than PC as well as a popular tyrosinase inhibitor-kojic acid. Both CMC2.24 and CMC2.23 inhibited tyrosinase enzyme activity by a mixed mode of inhibition with a predominant competitive mode. In addition, CMC2.24 as well as CMC2.23 showed a comparable robust efficacy in inhibiting melanogenesis in cultured melanocytes. Furthermore, after removal of CMC2.24 or CMC2.23 from the medium, we could demonstrate a partial recovery of the suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity in the melanocytes. Our results provide a proof-of-principle for the novel use of the CMCs that shows them to be far superior to the parent compound, curcumin, for skin depigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation skin disorders comprise melasma, age spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. They are characterized by an aberrant upregulation of melanin pigment and pose a significant burden aesthetically. Calebin-A (CBA) is a natural curcuminoid analog derived from turmeric root (Curcuma longa) but, unlike curcumin, it has not been explored yet for anti-melanogenic activity. Hence, in the current study, we studied CBA for its effects on α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (αMSH)-stimulated melanogenesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Our results showed that CBA (20 μM) significantly suppressed αMSH-stimulated melanogenesis after 48 h treatment. The underlying mechanisms of CBA’s anti-melanogenic activity were studied, and it was shown that CBA did not affect either intracellular tyrosinase activity or the direct activity of tyrosinase enzyme. Additionally, CBA did not affect intracellular α-glucosidase activity but significantly inhibited direct α-glucosidase activity. CBA also directly scavenged 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals, consistent with potent antioxidant activity but did not inhibit intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS). CBA increased acidification of cellular organelles and inhibited maturation of melanosomes by significantly reducing the number of mature melanosomes. Our results indicate that CBA may hold promise as a pigmentation inhibitor for hyperpigmentation disorders for cosmetic use by targeting pathways other than tyrosinase inhibition. Further studies to delineate the molecular signaling mechanism of melanogenesis inhibition and test anti-melanogenesis efficacy of CBA in human skin melanocytes and skin equivalents are warranted.

Xanthohumol (XH) is the most abundant prenylated flavonoid found in the hop plant (Humulus lupulus L.) and has previously been shown to have depigmenting effects in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells; however, studies of its depigmenting efficacy in human melanocytes are still lacking. In this work, we explored the effects of XH on melanogenesis in MNT-1 human melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes from darkly-pigmented skin (HEM-DP). XH was screened for cytotoxicity over 48 h, and subsequently tested on melanogenesis in MNT-1 cells. XH was further tested in HEM-DP cells for melanin synthesis and melanosome export; dendricity was quantitated to assess effects on melanosome export. Melanosome degradation was studied in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Our results showed that XH inhibited melanin synthesis in MNT-1 cells at 30 μM but increased intracellular tyrosinase activity without affecting ROS levels. In HEM-DP cells, XH robustly suppressed cellular tyrosinase activity at nontoxic concentrations (2.5–5 μM) without any effect on melanin synthesis. However, XH inhibited melanosome export by reducing dendrite number and total dendrite length. Further testing in HaCaT cells demonstrated that XH induced melanosome degradation at low micromolar concentrations without any cytotoxicity. In summary, our results demonstrate that XH at low micromolar concentrations might hold promise as a potent inhibitor of human pigmentation by primarily targeting melanin export and melanin degradation. Further studies to elucidate the signaling mechanisms of action of melanosome export inhibition by XH and in vivo efficacy are warranted.

Ellagitannins such as casuarictin (CAS), isolated from clove extracts, have been shown to have superior benefits such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, but there have been no reports on their capacity to inhibit melanogenesis. Inhibition of melanogenesis by novel natural products has gained attention for cosmetic applications such as skin lightening. Here, we report the effects of CAS on melanogenesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Our results showed that CAS (30 µM) significantly inhibited intracellular melanogenesis while being nontoxic to B16F10 cells or to HaCaT cells at that concentration. CAS (30 μM) also inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity as well as mushroom tyrosinase activity; possessed robust copper chelating ability comparable to that of 500 µM kojic acid; and downregulated MITF protein levels, all of which contribute to the inhibitory mechanisms underlying its anti-melanogenic activity. In summary, our results demonstrate that CAS might hold promise as a depigmenting agent for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Hyperpigmentation is a dermatological condition characterized by the overaccumulation and/or oversecretion of melanin pigment. The efficacy of curcumin as an anti-melanogenic therapeutic has been recognized, but the poor stability and solubility that have limited its use have inspired the synthesis of novel curcumin analogs. We have previously reported on comparisons of the anti-melanogenic activity of four novel chemically modified curcumin (CMC) analogs, CMC2.14, CMC2.5, CMC2.23 and CMC2.24, with that of parent curcumin (PC), using a B16F10 mouse melanoma cell model, and we have investigated mechanisms of inhibition. In the current study, we have extended our findings using normal human melanocytes from a darkly pigmented donor (HEMn-DP) and we have begun to study aspects of melanosome export to human keratinocytes. Our results showed that all the CMCs downregulated the protein levels of melanogenic paracrine mediators, endothelin-1 (ET-1) and adrenomedullin (ADM) in HaCaT cells and suppressed the phagocytosis of FluoSphere beads that are considered to be melanosome mimics. All the three CMCs were similarly potent (except CMC2.14, which was highly cytotoxic) in inhibiting melanin production; furthermore, they suppressed dendricity in HEMn-DP cells. CMC2.24 and CMC2.23 robustly suppressed cellular tyrosinase activity but did not alter tyrosinase protein levels, while CMC2.5 did not suppress tyrosinase activity but significantly downregulated tyrosinase protein levels, indicative of a distinctive mode of action for the two structurally related CMCs. Moreover, HEMn-DP cells treated with CMC2.24 or CMC2.23 partially recovered their suppressed tyrosinase activity after cessation of the treatment. All the three CMCs were nontoxic to human dermal fibroblasts while PC was highly cytotoxic. Our results provide a proof-of-principle for the novel use of the CMCs for skin depigmentation, since at low concentrations, ranging from 5 to 25 µM, the CMCs (CMC2.24, CMC2.23 and CMC2.5) were more potent anti-melanogenic agents than PC and tetrahydrocurcumin (THC), both of which were ineffective at melanogenesis at similar doses, as tested in HEMn-DP cells (with PC being highly toxic in dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes). Further studies to evaluate the efficacy of CMCs in human skin tissue and in vivo studies are warranted.