The scope of this paper is to show the results obtained for simulating three-dimensional breaking waves by solving the Navier–Stokes equations in air and water. The interface tracking is achieved by a Lax–Wendroff TVD scheme (Total Variation Diminishing), which is able to handle interface reconnections. We first present the equations and the numerical methods used in this work. We then proceed to the study of a three-dimensional plunging breaking wave, using initial conditions corresponding to unstable periodic sinusoidal waves of large amplitudes. We compare the results obtained for two simulations, a longshore depth perturbation has been introduced in the solution of the flow equations in order to see the transition from a two-dimensional velocity field to a fully three-dimensional one after plunging. Breaking processes including overturning, splash-up and breaking induced vortex-like motion beneath the surface are presented and discussed. To cite this article: P. Lubin et al., C. R. Mecanique 331 (2003). Une étude du déferlement tridimensionelle est présentée sur la base de résultats obtenus par simulation numérique directe des équations de Navier–Stokes diphasiques. Le suivi de l'interface est réalisé par l'utilisation du schéma TVD Lax–Wendroff (Total Variation Diminishing) qui permet de gérer les reconnexions de l'interface. Le déferlement est obtenu à partir de l'initialisation dans un domaine semi-périodique d'une onde sinusoidale instable. Après présentation des équations et des méthodes numériques employées, une comparaison est effectuée entre deux simulations tridimensionelles et une discussion est menée quant à la nécessité d'utiliser une perturbation afin de destabiliser la symétrie du calcul. Les résultats obtenus sont alors commentés. Pour citer cet article : P. Lubin et al., C. R. Mecanique 331 (2003).

In this paper, we present new results on the potential La Palma collapse event, previously described and studied in Abadie et al. (2012). Three scenarios (i.e., slide volumes of 20, 40 and 80 km³) are considered, modeling the initiation of the slide to the water generation using THETIS, a 3D Navier–Stokes model. The slide is a Newtonian fluid whose viscosity is adjusted to approximate a granular behavior. After 5 min of propagation with THETIS, the generated water wave is transferred into FUNWAVE-TVD (Total Variation Diminishing version of FUNWAVE) to build a wave source suitable for propagation models. The results obtained for all the volumes after 15 min of Boussinesq model simulation are made available through a public repository. The signal is then propagated with two different Boussinesq models: FUNWAVE-TVD and Calypso. An overall good agreement is found between the two models, which secures the validity of the results. Finally, a detailed impact study is carried out on La Guadeloupe using a refined shallow water model, SCHISM, initiated with the FUNWAVE-TVD solution in the nearshore area. Although the slide modeling approach applied in this study seemingly leads to smaller waves compared to former works, the wave impact is still very significant for the maximum slide volume considered on surrounding islands and coasts, as well as on the most exposed remote coasts such as Guadeloupe. In Europe, the wave impact is significant (for specific areas in Spain and Portugal) to moderate (Atlantic French coast).

De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013. Video observation of the morphodynamics of nearshore sandbars on a partially engineered embayed beach. Embayed beaches are prevalent environments along the northern Spanish coastline. The present work analyses the temporal and spatial variability of nearshore sandbars on the pocket beach of Zarautz using daily video observations over 2 years. This partially urbanized beach can be divided into two well defined distinct areas: a natural section backed by a sand dune system to the East and an engineered section with rigid seawalls to the West. The objective of the present work is to evaluate if the engineered and natural sections of the beach present different morphological behaviors. The video image analysis was performed in two steps: First, sand bars were characterized visually and classified following standard classification schemes. Then, the outer sand bar migration was measured using automatic bar detecti...