• Rhus semialata M. ethanolic extract demonstrated protective effect on PPD-induced cytotoxicity. • The extract has inhibitory effect in PPD induced apoptosis and cell cycle alternation on keratinocytes. • The extract could attenuate the change of ROS and mitochondrial membrane potential (Δψm) after treatment of PPD exposure in keratinocytes. • Gallic acid was major component of Rhus semialata M. ethanolic extract. • Gallic acid provided both antioxidant and protective effect against PPD cytotoxicity.

The scalp is exposed to environmental hazards including airborne pollutants, which exert adverse effects on skin health. Therefore, compounds for defending skin from pollutants have attracted interest in the cosmeceutical community. We investigated whether Ecklonia cava exhibited prophylactic effects against urban pollutants by measuring cell viability and cell cycle distribution in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC). The effect of E. cava on pollutant-induced damage to skin barrier was determined by measuring filaggrin and MMP-1 expression in both keratinocytes and in a skin explant model. In a clinical trial, the effect of E. cava on scalp skin of patients with scalp scale was observed by evaluating hydration and redness after 4 weeks of daily treatment with a shampoo containing E. cava extract. E. cava extract recovered the loss of cell viability and abnormal cell cycle distribution induced by urban pollutants in HFDPCs. It also attenuated pollutant-induced damage to skin barrier by decreasing MMP-1 and increasing filaggrin expression in keratinocytes and the epidermis of skin explants. Moreover, E. cava showed soothing effects on human scalp by increasing hydration and decreasing redness in a clinical trial. Collectively, E. cava extract may be a good candidate for therapeutic applications designed to repair or protect hair scalp.

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of Sargassum fusiforme extract (SFE) on melanogenesis and its mechanism both in vitro and ex vivo. The melanogenic-inducing effect of SFE was evaluated using a melanin contents assay and a cellular tyrosinase activity assay. To investigate whether SFE could protect melanocytes against oxidative stress, hydrogen peroxidase was used. The molecular mechanism underlying the effect of SFE on melanogenesis was determined via Western blot analysis of tyrosinase, a microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and a phosphorylated cAMP response element-binding protein (p-CREB) expression. The degree of pigmentation in a 3D skin model was determined by measuring the L* values. Contents of melanin in ex vivo human hair follicles were evaluated via Fontana–Masson staining. SFE significantly increased melanin contents and cellular tyrosinase activity in human epidermal melanocytes. SFE also increased the phosphorylation of CREB and the protein levels of tyrosinase and MITF. Moreover, SFE attenuated oxidative stress-induced cytotoxicity and depigmentation. Finally, the melanogenesis promoting effect of SFE was confirmed in both a 3D skin model and ex vivo human hair follicles. These findings suggest that SFE can induce melanogenesis via the cAMP/PKA/CREB signaling pathway in human epidermal melanocytes through its hyperpigmentation activity.