This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation index and the Sebumeter^® SM 815 from Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Cologne, Germany. Sebum control efficacy was determined in three groups of volunteers seated in a room at a temperature of 26 ± 1 °C. The forehead area was divided into two sections: one received the cosmetic elastomer while the other area received no product. The elastomer significantly reduced sebum levels in all three groups at 2, 4, and 5 h (p < 0.05) compared to the untreated area, and the third group exhibited higher sebum reductions, with 43.48%, 52.43%, and 43.95%, respectively. In conclusion, the dermatologically tested and safe cosmetic product contains a balanced combination of active ingredients that effectively control sebum levels, resulting in visibly oil-free skin.

Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.

Objectives: This study aimed to evaluate the safety of daily use and skin viscoelasticity in vivo and under long-term conditions (14 and 28 days) of a cosmetic cream containing an extract of dragon's blood ( Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje ( Mauritia flexuosa Lf.), goldenberry ( Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi ( Plukenetia huayllabambana ), and sacha inchi ( Plukenetia volubilis ), all of which are of Peruvian origin. Methods: Dermatological safety and viscoelasticity tests were conducted using the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group evaluation scale for measuring reactions and the Cutometer ^® MPA580, respectively. Results: The results reported that the cosmetic cream in the safety evaluation did not induce any significant skin sensitisation or irritant phenomena; and in the long-term viscoelastic evaluation significant increases were achieved with respect to the baseline control (p = 0.000): the indices of firmness, viscoelasticity during the suction phase and total recovery, obtained average improvements of 29.5%; 39.0%; 37.7%, respectively. Conclusion: The cosmetic cream is dermatologically safe and demonstrates a sustainable improvement effect on the viscoelasticity parameter and increases firmness gradually after 14 and 28 days of daily application.

This study assessed the structural stability and in vitro antioxidant capacity of a cosmetic formulation incorporating sangre de grado extract (Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.), aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.), sourced from Peruvian biodiversity. Structural characterization was conducted using Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR) on the formulation at the initial time point (ASC T0) and after six months under accelerated stability conditions (ASC T6). Characteristic absorption bands corresponding to carbonyl, ether, and hydroxyl functional groups were observed, confirming the structural integrity of the lipid–polymeric components within the emulsifying system. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS assays, with IC₅₀ values comparable to those of a commercially available cream. In the DPPH assay, ASC T6 exhibited IC₅₀ of 5744.8571 μg/mL, comparable to a commercial formulation (5641.1585 μg/mL). In the ABTS assay, ASC T0 demonstrated antioxidant activity statistically equivalent (p > 0.05) to that of the commercial cream, with IC₅₀ values of 410.2358 and 420.2202 μg/mL, respectively. In conclusion, the preservation of antioxidant activity is attributed to the structural integrity of the formulated system, which stabilized and retained synergistic interactions of the antioxidants. Future studies should explore the incorporation of additional antioxidants and include in vivo instrumental assessments of stability and efficacy.