The present investigation describes a formulative study aimed at designing ethosomes for caffeic acid transdermal administration. Since caffeic acid is characterized by antioxidant potential but also high instability, its encapsulation appears to be an interesting strategy. Ethosomes were produced by adding water into a phosphatidylcholine ethanol solution under magnetic stirring. Size distribution and morphology of ethosome were investigated by photon correlation spectroscopy, small-angle X-ray spectroscopy, and cryogenic transmission electron microscopy, while the entrapment capacity of caffeic acid was evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography. Caffeic acid stability in ethosome was compared to the stability of the molecule in water, determined by mass spectrometry. Ethosome dispersion was thickened by poloxamer 407, obtaining an ethosomal gel that was characterized for rheological behavior and deformability. Caffeic acid diffusion kinetics were determined by Franz cells, while its penetration through skin, as well as its antioxidant activity, were evaluated using a porcine skin membrane–covered biosensor based on oxygen electrode. Ethosome mean diameter was ≈200 nm and almost stable within three months. The entrapment of caffeic acid in ethosome dramatically prolonged drug stability with respect to the aqueous solution, being 77% w/w in ethosome after six months, while in water, an almost complete degradation occurred within one month. The addition of poloxamer slightly modified vesicle structure and size, while it decreased the vesicle deformability. Caffeic acid diffusion coefficients from ethosome and ethosome gel were, respectively, 137- and 33-fold lower with respect to the aqueous solution. At last, the caffeic acid permeation and antioxidant power of ethosome were more intense with respect to the simple solution.

Exposure to pollution can cause oxidative stress, premature ageing, inflammation, and diseases. Since most of us are exposed to pollution, protection is important. This can be achieved through skin protection or through protection with respect to food and food supplements. There is a wide range of products on the market with anti-pollution claims. However, it is important that these claims are thoroughly validated by proper efficacy testing. When skin cells are exposed to pollution factors, changes in a number of skin properties can be observed, such as lipid composition, lipid and protein oxidation, pH, sebum secretion rate, oxidative stress, inflammation markers, and collagen and elastin levels. These can be measured and used as markers to verify anti-pollution claims. In the present review, we summarize some of the most important in vitro and in vivo tests that are used to determine if an ingredient or formulation has anti-pollution efficacy.

The object of this study is a comparison between solid lipid nanoparticles and ethosomes for caffeic acid delivery through the skin. Caffeic acid is a potent antioxidant molecule whose cutaneous administration is hampered by its low solubility and scarce stability. In order to improve its therapeutic potential, caffeic acid has been encapsulated within solid lipid nanoparticles and ethosomes. The effect of lipid matrix has been evaluated on the morphology and size distribution of solid lipid nanoparticles and ethosomes loaded with caffeic acid. Particularly, morphology has been investigated by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy and small angle X-ray scattering, while mean diameters have been evaluated by photon correlation spectroscopy. The antioxidant power has been evaluated by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl methodology. The influence of the type of nanoparticulate system on caffeic acid diffusion has been evaluated by Franz cells associated to the nylon membrane, while to evaluate caffeic acid permeation through the skin, an amperometric study has been conducted, which was based on a porcine skin-covered oxygen electrode. This apparatus allows measuring the O₂ concentration changes in the membrane induced by polyphenols and H₂O₂ reaction in the skin. The antioxidative reactions in the skin induced by caffeic acid administered by solid lipid nanoparticles or ethosomes have been evaluated. Franz cell results indicated that caffeic acid diffusion from ethosomes was 18-fold slower with respect to solid lipid nanoparticles. The amperometric method evidenced the transdermal delivery effect of ethosome, indicating an intense antioxidant activity of caffeic acid and a very low response in the case of SLN. Finally, an irritation patch test conducted on 20 human volunteers demonstrated that both ethosomes and solid lipid nanoparticles can be safely applied on the skin.