Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I—cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II—cosmetic base and extract; and Type III—cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH• and expressed in Trolox^® equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 ± 0.01 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 5 and 424.51 ± 0.32 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 7; (III) 550.88 ± 0.00 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 5 and 429.66 ± 0.10 μmol TE g^−1, at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance.

The skin is constantly exposed to various environmental stresses, in particular to the damage caused by pollution and ultraviolet radiation (UV), and as a consequence, the horny extract can be negatively impacted by the harmful influence of some of its surface components. The mechanisms involved in the degradation processes promoted by UV radiation are driven by the direct absorption of radiation via cellular chromophores, the formation of excited states and the consequent chemical reactions, or even by the photosensitization mechanisms, in which UV light is absorbed by the sensitizers that are excited and their reactions promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The mechanisms of polluting agents are not yet fully understood, however, they indicate that one of the main mechanisms involved is oxidative stress by lipid peroxidation, with the ability to promote damage to the composition of sebum, the quality of the stratum corneum and also, promote aging skin. Recent studies demonstrate the potential of antioxidant agents, with an emphasis on products of natural origin, which try to promote the maintenance of the physiological balance of the skin.

Vitamins are part of the antioxidant system of human skin, and are detectable in different layers, so the topical application can be an alternative to maintain the functionality of the system. The capacity of the antioxidant gradient of keratinocytes is associated with attenuation of the action of related free radicals in both esthetics and health. These problems arise from extrinsic aging and are related to the risk of cancer. Vitamin E has been proven to have antioxidant and moisturizing properties in the skin and can protect against the damage of UVB radiation, with emphasis on the reduction of acute erythema and photoaging. The choice for the use of topical vitamin E, compared to the oral is given by the safety as mild irritation and it has potential for multifunctional topical formulations. The purpose of the chapter is to review the topical use of formulations with vitamin E, addressing the development, safe use and evaluation of effectiveness.

As diseases caused by solar radiation have gained great prominence, several methods to prevent them have been developed. Among the most common, the use of sunscreens is customary and accessible. The application of theoretical methods has helped to design new compounds with therapeutic and protective functions. Natural compounds with described photoprotective potential properties (3-O-methylquercetin, gallic acid, aloin, catechin, quercetin, and resveratrol) were selected to perform theoretical studies. Computational methods were applied to predict their absorption spectra, using DFT and TD-DFT methods with functional B3LYP/6−311+g(d,p) basis sets and methanol (IEFPCM) as a solvent. The main electronic transitions of the compounds were evaluated by observing whether the differences in HOMO and LUMO energies that absorb in the UV range are UVA (320–400 nm), UVB (290–320 nm), or UVC (100–290 nm). Experimental validation was carried out for EMC, quercetin, and resveratrol, demonstrating the consistency of the computational method. Results obtained suggest that resveratrol is a candidate for use in sunscreens. The study provided relevant information about the in silico predictive power of natural molecules with the potential for use as photoprotective adjuvants, which may result in fewer time and resource expenditures in the search for photoprotective compounds.

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.