Sustainable ingredients in cosmetics have been discussed for the past decade, and the COVID-19 pandemic has increased awareness of this significant topic. Consumers are informed and vigilant about clean labels, driving the necessity for sustainability throughout the cosmetic production chain. Moreover, nanotechnology and green chemistry approaches have emerged as innovative perspectives to develop sustainable and eco-friendly cosmetic ingredients. In this sense, in this review, we present examples and applications of sustainable ingredients derived from several types of sources (i.e., plants, animals, microorganisms, cell cultures, and recycled materials/biomaterials). The benefits and drawbacks of all classes of compounds were organized and discussed in relation to novel formulations/products. Finally, we addressed perspectives on cosmetic ingredients that prioritize sustainability and safety, with an emphasis on exploring sustainable ingredients, compounds, or molecules as promising areas for research and development.
17 April 2019 in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics.
1 May 2021 in Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces
Carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 are naturally occurring antioxidant compounds that are also found in human skin. These bioactive compounds have been the focus of considerable research due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties. In this review, the current state of the art in the encapsulation of carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 in lipid nanoparticles to improve their bioavailability, chemical stability, and skin absorption is discussed. Additionally, the main findings are highlighted on the cytotoxic and photoprotective effects of these systems in the skin.
The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, compositions, usages as active compounds and cosmetic ingredients/starting materials, and observations about formulation techniques. From this review, we observed that although much scientific and specialized literature has reported the characterization of clays, only some involved efficacy tests when incorporated into cosmetic products, mainly concerning haircare applications. Our review could be considered and encouraged in the coming years to provide scientific and technical information for the cosmetic industry regarding the multifunctional use of clays and clay minerals.
From tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) farming, the by-products have been identified as a source of collagen that could be used for the development of dermocosmetics or pharmaceutical products. However, the characteristics of collagen related to a specific strain or culture must be well defined prior to its application. Collagen was extracted from the skin of three strains of tilapia: red YY males (YY: two Y-type sex chromosomes), XX gray females, and the F1: offspring of crossing red YY males with XX gray females; at different ages in the adult phase, using acetic acid and pepsin enzyme. The characteristics of acid-soluble collagen (ASC) and pepsin-soluble collagen (PSC) were shown by SDS-PAGE band profiles to be similar to bovine collagen type I (SIGMA), the PSC of gray tilapia being more fragile to temperature changes, consistent with the results of fractional viscosity. The characteristics of the F1 progeny were prioritized for being a commercially productive and sustainable source for the extraction of collagen, and the ASC form, being the one with the greatest stability and advantage over PSC, of importance to our investigations, leads to a controlled digestion as in the case of peptide induction, and also in the development of natural products in the pharmaceutical and/or dermocosmetic industry. Evaluations of the triple helix structure by FT-IR, X-ray diffraction and UV–visible spectroscopy give similar results between the strains: red, gray, and F1, and between ages in the adult form F1 (15, 24, and 36 months of age). Consequently, the skin of tilapia in adult form is recommended sustainably for up to 24 months of age where the collagen is obtained with the use of acetic acid without enzymatic treatment.