We present a new 2DV nonlinear process‐based morphodynamic model to investigate the effects of storms, specifically wind‐driven flow and wind waves, on finite amplitude tidal sand wave evolution. Simulations are performed on periodic domains of two lengths: (i) on a 350‐m domain, comparable to the wavelength of observed sand waves, we study the evolution toward equilibrium shapes, and (ii) on a 4‐km domain, we study the evolution from a randomly perturbed seabed. Our model results demonstrate that both wind‐driven flow and wind waves reduce sand wave height and tend to increase wavelength. Wind‐driven flow breaks the tidal symmetry, resulting in horizontal sand wave asymmetry and migration. Waves alone do not induce migration but can enhance migration induced by, for example, tidal asymmetry and wind‐driven flow. On the 350‐m domain, we further find that migration rates decrease with increasing sand wave height. However, in an irregular sand wave field, large sand waves tend to overtake the smaller ones, suggesting a complicated interaction among neighboring bed forms. The above results concern steady state storm conditions. However, since storms occur on an intermittent basis, we also simulated a synthetic storm climate consisting of alternating short periods of storm conditions and long periods of fair‐weather conditions. Simulations reveal a dynamic equilibrium with sand wave heights significantly below those obtained for tide‐only conditions, also for relatively short storm duration. Our work identifies mechanisms that explain why sand wave heights are generally overpredicted by numerical models that do not include storm processes.

The attractiveness of beaches to people has led, in many places, to the construction of buildings at the beach–dune interface. Buildings change the local airflow patterns which, in turn, alter the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes. This induces erosion and deposition patterns around the structures. In this study, a numerical model is developed using the open-source computational fluid dynamics solver OpenFOAM. First, the model is used to predict the airflow patterns around a single rectangular building. The model predictions are validated with wind-tunnel data, which show good agreements. Second, a reference beach building is introduced and then the building dimensions are increased in length, width and height, each up to three times the reference building dimension. The impact of each dimensional extent on the near-surface airflow patterns is investigated. The results show that the near-surface airflow patterns are least dependent on the length of the building in the wind direction and they depend most on the width of the building perpendicular to the wind direction. Third, the convergence of the third-order horizontal near-surface velocity field is calculated to interpret the impact of changes in airflow patterns on potential erosion and deposition patterns around the building. The numerical predictions are compared with the observed erosion and sedimentation patterns around scale models in the field. The comparisons show satisfactory agreements between numerical results and field measurements.

The long-term physical existence of sandy shores critically depends on a balanced sediment budget. From the principles of Building with Nature it follows that a sustainable protection of sandy shores should employ some form of shore nourishment. In the spatial design process of urbanized sandy shores, where multiple functions must be integrated, the knowledge and the prediction of sediment dynamics and beach-dune morphology thus play an essential role. This expertise typically resides with coastal scientists who have condensed their knowledge in various types of morphological models that serve different purposes and rely on different assumptions, thus have their specific strengths and limitations. This paper identifies morphological information needs for the integrated spatial design of urbanized sandy shores using BwN principles, outlines capabilities of different types of morphological models to support this and identifies current gaps between the two. A clear mismatch arises from the absence of buildings and accompanying human activities in current numerical models simulating morphological developments in beach-dune environments.

We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a $k-\omega$ turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for discriminating between air and water. Sediment transport is described in terms of bedload and suspended load transport. We show that the default divergence scheme in OpenFOAM can become numerically unstable and lead to negative sediment concentrations, and propose a solution to avoid this problem. The model performance is assessed in terms of surface elevation, flow velocities, runup, suspended sediment concentrations, bed profile evolution and sediment transport volumes by comparing with measurements of field-scale (wave height of 0.6 m) solitary waves. The model shows reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and predicts the correct sediment transport volumes, although the deposition is predicted more onshore compared to the measurements. This is partially attributed to an overprediction of the runup. The model shows that the suspended sediment concentration displays a strong vertical dependence. These results show the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone, particularly with respect to vertical structures in the flow and suspended sediment transport.

The present work presents physical laboratory measurements of surface elevation and pore water pressures in a fine sand bed under bichromatic waves in a large‐scale laboratory experiment. This was done at three cross‐shore locations in the swash zone, with pressures being measured at different depths in the bed. The measurements show that the pore pressure signal decays and shifts with increased depth. These measurements are used to validate a practical model, based on the theory of Yamamoto et al. (1978, https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112078003006 ) and Guest and Hay (2017, https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012257 ). The model corresponds well with the measurements ( nRMSE < 0.2 and R ² > 0.95 for most probes) and shows that a frequency‐based model can reproduce the pressures in the bed, despite the bed being exposed during dry periods. Furthermore, the model provides the opportunity to calculate pressure gradients, both throughout the bed and at the bed surface. These modeled pressure gradients at the bed surface show that the vertical pressure gradient can have an important impact on the Shields parameter, thereby influencing sediment transport.

Tidal sand waves form a dynamic bed pattern, widely occurring in shallow shelf seas such as the North Sea. Their importance to coastal engineering has inspired many advances in process-based sand wave modelling, aimed at explaining physical mechanisms in the formation stage (‘linear regime’) and capturing the finite amplitude evolution to equilibrium states (‘nonlinear regime’). However, systematic validation of particularly the nonlinear sand wave models is still lacking. Here, we perform a two-step calibration and validation study of a sand wave model (specifically, their linear and nonlinear model versions) against field data from the North Sea. In the first step, the linear model is calibrated by seeking overall values of two uncertain input parameters (slip parameter, wave period) for which the modeled and observed wavelengths show the best agreement. In the second step, using the calibrated input parameters and preferred wavelengths from the linear model, equilibrium heights from the nonlinear sand wave model are validated against the observed sand wave heights. Our results show satisfactory agreement between observed and modeled sand wave lengths (from the linear sand wave model) and a systematic overprediction of sand wave heights (using the nonlinear model). Regression analysis can be used to rescale the nonlinear model results to obtain realistic predictions of sand wave heights.