This vision paper discusses the advances made over the last three decades in coastal sand transport and morphodynamics, and the research needs for the coming decades. The prime focus of the paper is on the relationship between the transport of sand particles and fluid motions in the coastal environment based on laboratory and field experiments as well as mathematical modelling. The paper mainly focuses on two main issues: (1) better understanding of sediment transport processes in the coastal zone and (2) the development of improved practical engineering sand transport formulae and morphodynamic models.
Bedform-related roughness affects both water movement and sediment transport, so it is important that it is represented correctly in numerical morphodynamic models. The main objective of the present study is to quantify for the first time the importance of ripple- and megaripple-related roughness for modelled hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the wave- and tide-dominated Ameland ebb-tidal delta in the north of the Netherlands. To do so, a sensitivity analysis was performed, in which several types of bedform-related roughness predictors were evaluated using a Delft3D model. Also, modelled ripple roughness was compared to data of ripple heights observed in a six-week field campaign on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta. The present study improves our understanding of how choices in model set-up influence model results. By comparing the results of the model scenarios, it was found that the ripple and megaripple-related roughness affect the depth-averaged current velocity, mainly over the shallow areas of the delta. The small-scale ripples are also important for the suspended load sediment transport, both indirectly through the affected flow and directly. While the current magnitude changes by 10–20% through changes in bedform roughness, the sediment transport magnitude changes by more than 100%.
New experiments under sheet flow conditions were conducted in an oscillating water tunnel to study the effects of flow acceleration on sand transport. The simulated hydrodynamic conditions considered flow patterns that drive cross-shore sediment transport in the nearshore zone: the wave nonlinearities associated with velocity and acceleration skewness and a negative mean current, the undertow. Net transport rates were evaluated from the sediment balance equation and show that (1) the acceleration skewness in an oscillatory flow produces a net sediment transport in the direction of the highest acceleration; (2) the net transport in the presence of an opposing current is negative, against the direction of the highest acceleration, and reduces with an increase in flow acceleration; and (3) velocity skewness increases the values of the net onshore transport rates.
11 October 2018 in Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface
Estuarine intertidal areas are shaped by combined astronomical and meteorological forces. This paper reveals the relative importance of tide, surge, wind, and waves for the flow and sediment transport on large intertidal shoals. Results of an intensive field campaign have been used to validate a numerical model of the Roggenplaat intertidal shoal in the Eastern Scheldt Estuary, the Netherlands, in order to identify and quantify the importance of each of the processes over time and space. We show that its main tidal creeks are not the cause for the dominant direction of the net flow on the shoal. The tidal flow over the shoal is steered by the water level differences between the surrounding channels. Also during wind events, the tidal flow (enhanced by surge) is dominant in the creeks. In contrast, wind speeds of order 40 times the typical tidal flow velocity are sufficient to completely alter the flow direction and magnitude on an intertidal shoal. This has significant consequences for the sediment transport patterns. Apart from this wind‐driven flow dominance during these events, the wind also increases the bed shear stress by waves. For the largest intertidal part of the Roggenplaat, only ∼1–10% of the yearly transport results from the 50% least windy tides, even if the shoal is artificially lowered half the tidal range. This dominance of energetic meteorological conditions in the transports matches with field observations, in which the migration of the creeks and high parts of the shoal are in line with the predominant wind direction.
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore net sediment transport was investigated for the total active profile and for the surf and swash zone separately. It is shown that the steep slope is morphologically more active than the gentle slope, with faster and more pronounced morphological changes and larger sediment transport rates. For both slopes, the total and surf zone net sediment transport were offshore-directed for erosive waves and onshore-directed for the accretive wave condition. However, the net swash zone transport for the erosive wave conditions was offshore-directed for the steep slope and onshore-directed for the gentle slope. The direction and magnitude of the total and surf zone sediment transport correlate well with the slope-corrected Dean criterion with increasing offshore-directed sediment transport (erosion) observed for increasing wave energy and bed slope. This relation does not hold for the swash zone sediment transport along the gentle slope, suggesting that swash zone sediment transport processes are not well captured when using a simple predictor such as the (modified) Dean number. Differences in sediment transport in the swash for the different slopes are likely influenced by differences in incoming wave energy, wave–swash interactions and the relative importance of long- and short-waves.