River confluences are the key features of the drainage basins, as their hydrological, geomorphological, and ecological nature strongly influences the downstream river characteristics. The river reaches near the coastal zones, which also makes them under the influence of tidal currents in addition to their runoff. This causes a bi-directional flow and makes the study of confluences more interesting and complex in these areas. There is a reciprocal adjustment of flow, sediment, and morphology at a confluence, and its behaviors, differ greatly in tidal and non-tidal environments. Existing studies of the river junctions provide a good account of information about the hydrodynamics and bed morphology of the confluent areas, especially the unidirectional ones. The main factors which affect the flow field include the angle of confluence, flow-related ratios (velocity, discharge, and momentum) of the merging streams, and bed discordance. Hydraulically, six notable zones are identified for unidirectional confluences. However, for bi-directional (tidal) junctions, hydrodynamic zones always remain in transition but repeat in a cycle and make four different arrangements of flow features. This study discusses the hydrodynamics, sediment transport, morphological changes, and the factors affecting these processes and reviews the recent research about the confluences for these issues. All of these studies provide insights into the morpho-dynamics in tidal and non-tidal confluent areas.
To date, the predominant means for computing the probability density function (p.d.f.) for the free surface elevation of a nonlinear, irregular water wave field, free of assumptions involving narrow-bandedness and small directionality, is the approximate Gram–Charlier series solution of Longuet-Higgins (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 17, 1963, pp. 459–480, hereafter LH63). In this paper we re-visit the derivation of this p.d.f. to second order in the wave steepness, utilizing both moment and cumulant generating functions. We show that LH63's approximate solution based on the cumulant generating function, in fact, matches that derived from the moment generating function. Moreover, through a change of variables coupled with complex analysis, it is shown that the approximation employed by LH63 is unnecessary, and the second-order p.d.f. stemming from the cumulant generating function can be represented exactly in terms of the Airy function. The new second-order p.d.f. predicts increased probability of extreme positive surface elevations typical of e.g. rogue waves, relative to both second- and third-order solutions of LH63. This heavy positive tail is inherent, and is explained through comparison of the asymptotic limits of the p.d.f.s for large surface elevations. A semi-theoretical method is also proposed for remedying non-physical spurious oscillations that arise in the negative tail, based on the envelope of the Airy function with negative arguments. This modified negative tail is valid for irregular wave fields having skewness less than or equal to 0.2. The new p.d.f.s are compared against those based on data sets generated from second-order irregular wave theory as well as a fully nonlinear, spectrally accurate numerical wave model. Good accuracy is collectively demonstrated for directionally spread irregular seas in both finite and infinite water depths for a range of directional spreading.
Numerical studies on the statistical properties of irregular waves in finite depth have to date been based on models founded on weak nonlinearity; as a consequence, only lower-order (usually third-order) nonlinear interactions have thus far been investigated. The present study performs numerical simulations with a fully nonlinear, spectrally accurate model to investigate the statistics of irregular, unidirectional wave fields in finite water depth initially given by a Texel, Marsen and Arsloe spectrum. A series of random unidirectional wave fields are considered, covering a wide range of water depth. The wave spectrum and statistical properties, including the probability density function of the surface elevation, exceedance probability of wave crests and occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves, are investigated. The importance of full nonlinearity in comparison with third-order results is likewise evaluated. The results show that full nonlinearity increases kurtosis and enhances the occurrence probability of large wave crests and rogue waves substantially, in both deep water and finite water depth. Therefore, we propose that full nonlinearity may contribute significantly to the formation of rogue waves. Furthermore, to account for the effects of higher-order nonlinearity on modulational instability, we analyse the relationship between the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI) and maximal excess kurtosis. Our results show a strong linear relationship i.e. $({\mathcal{K}}_{max}-3)\propto {\textrm{BFI}}$ , in contrast to $({\mathcal{K}}_{max}-3)\propto {\textrm{BFI}}^2$ based on the assumptions of weak nonlinearity, a narrow-banded spectrum and deep-water conditions. Above, $\mathcal{K}_{max}$ is the maximal kurtosis.
The probability density function (PDF) for the free surface elevation in an irregular sea has an integral formulation when based on the cumulant generating function. To leading order, the result is Gaussian, whereas nonlinear extensions have long been limited to Gram–Charlier series approximations. As shown recently by Fuhrman et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 970, 2023, A38), however, the second-order integral can be represented exactly in closed form. The present work extends this further, enabling determination of this PDF to even higher orders. Towards this end, a new ordinary differential equation (ODE) governing the PDF is first derived. Asymptotic solutions in the limit of large surface elevation are then found, utilizing the method of dominant balance. These provide new analytical forms for the positive tail of the PDF beyond second order. These likewise clarify how high-order cumulants (involving statistical moments such as the kurtosis) govern the tail, which is shown to get heavier with each successive order. The asymptotic solutions are finally utilized to generate boundary conditions, such that the governing ODE may be solved numerically, enabling novel determination of the PDF at third and higher order. Successful comparisons with challenging data sets confirm accuracy. The methodology thus enables the PDF of the surface elevation to be determined numerically, and the asymptotic tail analytically, to any desired order. Results are worked out explicitly up to fifth order. The theoretical probability of extreme surface elevations (typical of rogue waves) may thus be assessed quantitatively for highly nonlinear irregular seas, requiring only relevant statistical quantities as input.