Glycation, and the resulting buildup of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), is recognized as a key driver of cumulative skin damage and skin aging. Dunaliella salina is a halophile microalga adapted to intense solar radiation through the production of carotenoids. We present a natural supercritical CO₂ extract of Dunaliella salina rich in the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. The extract exhibited antiglycation and anti-inflammatory activities in ex vivo testing, showing strongly reduced formation of N-ε-carboxy-methyl-lysine with exposure to methylglyoxal, reduced AGE receptor levels, and significantly reduced interleukins 6 and 8. In a placebo-controlled clinical study under intense solar exposure, the extract significantly reduced the skin’s glycation scores and its sensitivity to histamine; key skin aging parameters were also significantly improved vs. placebo, including wrinkle counts and spots. These results demonstrate the value of this Dunaliella salina extract, rich in colorless carotenoids, as an antiglycative, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging active ingredient, including in high-irradiation contexts.

Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that affects the quality of life of patients. Several treatments exist for acne, but their effectiveness tends to decrease over time due to increasing resistance to treatment and associated side effects. To circumvent these issues, a new approach has emerged that involves combating the pathogen Cutibacterium acnes while maintaining the homeostasis of the skin microbiome. Recently, it was shown that the use of a G2 lysine dendrigraft (G2 dendrimer) could specifically decrease the C. acnes phylotype (IAI) involved in acne, compared to non-acne-causing C. acnes (phylotype II) bacteria. In the present study, we demonstrate that the efficacy of this technology is related to its 3D structure, which, in contrast to the linear form, significantly decreases the inflammation factor (IL-8) linked to acne. In addition, our in-vitro data confirm the specific activity of the G2 dendrimer: after treatment of bacterial cultures and biofilms, the G2 dendrimer affected neither non-acneic C. acnes nor commensal bacteria of the skin (Staphylococcus epidermidis, S. hominis, and Corynebacterium minutissimum). In parallel, comparative in-vitro and in-vivo studies with traditional over-the-counter molecules showed G2’s effects on the survival of commensal bacteria and the reduction of acne outbreaks. Finally, metagenomic analysis of the cutaneous microbiota of volunteers who applied a finished cosmetic product containing the G2 dendrimer confirmed the ability of G2 to rebalance cutaneous acne microbiota dysbiosis while maintaining commensal bacteria. These results confirm the value of using this G2 dendrimer to gently prevent the appearance of acne vulgaris while respecting the cutaneous microbiota.

Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin.

Psychological stress exerts its effects mainly through the release of corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), which activates inflammatory pathways in skin (inter alia), resulting in redness, extracellular matrix degradation, loss of skin elasticity and firmness, and the appearance of wrinkles—namely, accelerated skin aging. In order to propose a solution to this neurogenic aging phenomenon, we report here on studies using a myricitrin-rich extract of Cistus incanus, a Mediterranean shrub used in traditional medicine for the treatment of inflammatory and other diseases. These studies include a CRH receptor (CRH-R1) blocking assay; in vitro inflammatory cytokine reduction under CRH stimulation, and ex vivo NF-kB inhibition; and a double-blind clinical trial performed on highly stressed panelists, evaluating skin inflammation and wrinkling (active formulation vs. placebo control, applied split-face following a computer-generated randomization scheme; 36 subjects recruited and randomized, 30 analyzed; no adverse effects recorded; EMA/INFARMED registration #118505, internally funded). The results show that this extract can effectively block the CRH-R1 receptor, preventing NF-κB activation and the production of related pro-inflammatory cytokines. In a clinical setting, this same extract delivered significant anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. Taken together, these results demonstrate the value of this extract as a cosmetic active to counter neurogenic inflammation and skin aging.

As an external appendage, hair is exposed to multiple stresses of different origins such as particles and gases in air, or heavy metals and chemicals in water. So far, little research has addressed the impact of water pollution on hair. The present study describes a new ex vivo model that allowed us to document the adverse effects of water pollutants on the structure of hair proteins, as well as the protective potential of active cosmetic ingredients derived from a biomimetic exopolysaccharide (EPS). The impact of water pollution was evaluated on hair from a Caucasian donor repeatedly immersed in heavy metal-containing water. Heavy metal retention in and on hair was then quantified using Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometry (ICP/MS). The adverse effects of heavy metals on the internal structure of hair and its prevention by the EPS were assessed through measurement of keratin birefringence. Notably, the method allows the monitoring of the organization of keratin fibers and therefore the initial change on it in order to modulate the global damage in the hair. Results revealed an increasing amount of lead, cadmium and copper, following multiple exposures to polluted water. In parallel, the structure of keratin was also altered with exposures. However, heavy metal-induced keratin fiber damage could be prevented in the presence of the tested EPS, avoiding more drastic hair problems, such as lack of shine, or decrease in strength, due to damage accumulation.