Glycation, and the resulting buildup of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), is recognized as a key driver of cumulative skin damage and skin aging. Dunaliella salina is a halophile microalga adapted to intense solar radiation through the production of carotenoids. We present a natural supercritical CO₂ extract of Dunaliella salina rich in the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. The extract exhibited antiglycation and anti-inflammatory activities in ex vivo testing, showing strongly reduced formation of N-ε-carboxy-methyl-lysine with exposure to methylglyoxal, reduced AGE receptor levels, and significantly reduced interleukins 6 and 8. In a placebo-controlled clinical study under intense solar exposure, the extract significantly reduced the skin’s glycation scores and its sensitivity to histamine; key skin aging parameters were also significantly improved vs. placebo, including wrinkle counts and spots. These results demonstrate the value of this Dunaliella salina extract, rich in colorless carotenoids, as an antiglycative, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging active ingredient, including in high-irradiation contexts.

Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin.

Psychological stress exerts its effects mainly through the release of corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), which activates inflammatory pathways in skin (inter alia), resulting in redness, extracellular matrix degradation, loss of skin elasticity and firmness, and the appearance of wrinkles—namely, accelerated skin aging. In order to propose a solution to this neurogenic aging phenomenon, we report here on studies using a myricitrin-rich extract of Cistus incanus, a Mediterranean shrub used in traditional medicine for the treatment of inflammatory and other diseases. These studies include a CRH receptor (CRH-R1) blocking assay; in vitro inflammatory cytokine reduction under CRH stimulation, and ex vivo NF-kB inhibition; and a double-blind clinical trial performed on highly stressed panelists, evaluating skin inflammation and wrinkling (active formulation vs. placebo control, applied split-face following a computer-generated randomization scheme; 36 subjects recruited and randomized, 30 analyzed; no adverse effects recorded; EMA/INFARMED registration #118505, internally funded). The results show that this extract can effectively block the CRH-R1 receptor, preventing NF-κB activation and the production of related pro-inflammatory cytokines. In a clinical setting, this same extract delivered significant anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. Taken together, these results demonstrate the value of this extract as a cosmetic active to counter neurogenic inflammation and skin aging.

The neuropeptide oxytocin (OXT) is involved in social bonding, reproduction, and childbirth. Its activity is mediated by the oxytocin receptor (OXTR), also expressed in the skin. OXT alleviates dermal fibroblast senescence, and OXT levels correlate with visible skin aging. OXT inhibits nociceptive signaling and promotes neuronal plasticity. Here, we demonstrate OXT-like benefits of OXTR activation for skin touch sensoriality and nociception, as well as visible skin health and beauty indicators, using an aqueous extract of Hyacinthus orientalis bulbs. OXTR activation was evaluated in a Chinese hamster ovary (CHO) cell model. Nociception and innervation benefits were investigated in keratinocyte/sensory neuron coculture models. A placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated gentle touch receptivity, nociception, skin tone, elasticity, and wrinkling. The extract activated OXTR and enhanced dermal fibroblast proliferation in vitro. In the keratinocyte-neuron coculture, the HO extract lowered nociceptive CGRP release below that of the unstimulated and OXT controls and promoted neuronal survival and dendricity. An organ-on-a-chip coculture showed decreased electrical activity and increased neuronal peripherin. Clinically, we observed selective left-side frontal alpha-wave activation, indicating pleasant sensation, reduced nociception, enhanced skin glow, improved elasticity, and reduced wrinkling. This extract thus shows high value for holistic wellbeing solutions, enhancing the skin’s receptivity to pleasant sensations and promoting well-aging.

Psychological stress signaling affects skin via corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH) release. Through receptor CRH-R1, CRH activates inflammatio | POSTER

Red microalga Porphyridium cruentum produces a sulfated exopolysaccharide (EPS), which enables its survival in challenging intertidal and spray zones. Extracellular polysaccharide hyaluronic acid (HA) plays important roles in skin hydration, elasticity, and volume. However, with aging, HA decreases and loses effectiveness, reducing skin moisture retention and firmness, and increasing signs of aging. An effective topical alternative to injectable HA replacement remains a largely unmet need. An extract of Porphyridium cultivated in natural sunlight, rich in EPS and polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRNs), significantly activated the ADORA2A receptor in a CHO model, as well as reduced inflammation and increased collagen and HA production, autophagic flux, and key autophagy gene expression in dermal fibroblast cultures. In a double-blind clinical trial with placebo and HA benchmark controls, the Porphyridium extract delivered significant HA-like skin plumpness, hydration, and radiance benefits, and reduced signs of aging. The extract generally equaled or exceeded the HA benchmark. Its meaningful, swift HA-like activity shows potential for a safe, natural, and arguably more powerful HA-like alternative.