A multi-scale asymptotic theory is derived for the evolution and interaction of currents and surface gravity waves in water of finite depth, under conditions typical of coastal shelf waters outside the surf zone. The theory provides a practical and useful model with which wave–current coupling may be explored without the necessity of resolving features of the flow on space and time scales of the primary gravity-wave oscillations. The essential nature of the dynamical interaction is currents modulating the slowly evolving phase of the wave field and waves providing both phase-averaged forcing of long infra-gravity waves and wave-averaged vortex and Bernoulli-head forces and hydrostatic static set-up for the low-frequency current and sea-level evolution equations. Analogous relations are derived for wave-averaged material tracers and density stratification that include advection by horizontal Stokes drift and by a vertical Stokes pseudo-velocity that is the incompressible companion to the horizontal Stokes velocity. Illustrative solutions are analysed for the special case of depth-independent currents and tracers associated with an incident surface wave field and a vortex with O(1) Rossby number above continental shelf topography.

The vortex-force representation of the wave-averaged effects on currents is compared to the radiation-stress representation in a scaling regime appropriate to coastal and shelf waters. Three-dimensional and vertically integrated expressions for the conservative current equations are obtained in both representations. The vortex-force representation decomposes the main wave-averaged effects into two physically understandable concepts—a vortex force and a Bernoulli head. The vortex force is shown to be the dominant wave-averaged effect on currents. This effect can occur at higher order than the apparent leading order for the radiation-stress representation. Excluding nonconservative effects such as wave breaking, the lowest-order radiation or interaction stress can be completely characterized in terms of wave setup, forcing of long (infragravity) waves, and an Eulerian current whose divergence cancels that of the primary wave Stokes drift. The leading-order, wave-averaged dynamical effects incorporate the vortex force together with material advection by Stokes drift, modified pressure-continuity and kinematic surface boundary conditions, and parameterized representations of wave generation by the wind and breaking near the shoreline.

Volcanic eruptions on land create hot and fast pyroclastic density currents, triggering tsunamis or surges that travel over water where they reach the ocean. However, no field study has documented what happens when large volumes of erupted volcanic material are instead delivered directly into the ocean. We show how the rapid emplacement of large volumes of erupted material onto steep submerged slopes triggered extremely fast (122 kilometers per hour) and long-runout (>100 kilometers) seafloor currents. These density currents were faster than those triggered by earthquakes, floods, or storms, and they broke seafloor cables, cutting off a nation from the rest of the world. The deep scours excavated by these currents are similar to those around many submerged volcanoes, providing evidence of large eruptions at other sites worldwide.

On January 15th, 2022, at approximately 4:47 pm local time (0347 UTC), several weeks of heightened activity at the Hunga volcano 65 km northwest of Tongatapu, culminated in an 11-h long violent eruption which generated a significant near-field tsunami. Although the Kingdom of Tonga lies astride a large and tsunamigenic subduction zone, it has relatively few records of significant tsunami. Assessment activities took place both remotely and locally. Between March and June 2022, a field team quantified tsunami runup and inundation on the main populated islands Tongatapu and Eua, along with several smaller islands to the north, including the Ha’apai Group. Peak tsunami heights were ~ 19 m in western Tongatapu, ~ 20 m on south-eastern Nomuka Iki island and ~ 20 m on southern Tofua, located ~ 65 km S and E and 90 km N from Hunga volcano, respectively. In western Tongatapu, the largest tsunami surge overtopped a 13–15 m-high ridge along the narrow Hihifo peninsula in several locations. Analysis of tide gauge records from Nukualofa (which lag western Tongatapu arrivals by ~ 18–20 min), suggest that initial tsunami surges were generated prior to the largest volcanic explosions at ~ 0415 UTC. Further waves were generated by ~ 0426 UTC explosions that were accompanied by air-pressure waves. Efforts to model this event are unable to reproduce the timing of the large tsunami wave that toppled a weather station and communication tower on a 13 m-high ridge on western Tongatapu after 0500 UTC. Smaller tsunami waves continued until ~ 0900, coincident with a second energetic phase of eruption, and noted by eyewitnesses on Tungua and Mango Islands. Despite an extreme level of destruction caused by this tsunami, the death toll was extraordinarily low (4 victims). Interviews with witnesses and analysis of videos posted on social media suggest that this can be attributed to the arrival of smaller ‘pre tsunami’ waves that prompted evacuations, heightened tsunami awareness due to tsunami activity and advisories on the day before, the absence of tourists and ongoing tsunami education efforts since the 2009 Niuatoputapu, Tonga tsunami. This event highlights an unexpectedly great hazard from volcanic tsunami worldwide, which in Tonga’s case overprints an already extreme level of tectonic tsunami hazard. Education and outreach efforts should continue to emphasize the ‘natural warning signs’ of strong ground shaking and unusual wave and current action, and the importance of self-evacuation from coastal areas of low-lying islands. The stories of survival from this event can be used as global best practice for personal survival strategies from future tsunami.

An examination of the coastal geomorphology of bays along the Otago coastline, SE New Zealand, has identified a geomorphology consistent with tsunami inundation. A tsunami geomorphology consisting of a number of elements including dune pedestals, hummocky topography, parabolic dune systems, and post-tsunami features resulting from changes to the nearshore sediment budget is discussed. The most prominent features at Blueskin Bay are eroded pedestals although it is speculated that hummocky topography may be present in the bay. Tsunami geomorphology at Long Beach is more comprehensive with a marked association between pedestals and a hummocky topography. A full suite of potential geomorphological features however, is not present at either site. The type of features formed by a tsunami, and the ability to detect and interpret a tsunami geomorphology, hinges on the interaction between five key variables; sand availability, embayment type, nature of the coast, accumulation space, and landward environmental conditions. An appreciation of the geomorphic setting and history of a coast is therefore of fundamental importance when identifying what to look for and where to look for tsunami evidence. It is also important to realise that these features can also be formed by other processes.