A multi-scale asymptotic theory is derived for the evolution and interaction of currents and surface gravity waves in water of finite depth, under conditions typical of coastal shelf waters outside the surf zone. The theory provides a practical and useful model with which wave–current coupling may be explored without the necessity of resolving features of the flow on space and time scales of the primary gravity-wave oscillations. The essential nature of the dynamical interaction is currents modulating the slowly evolving phase of the wave field and waves providing both phase-averaged forcing of long infra-gravity waves and wave-averaged vortex and Bernoulli-head forces and hydrostatic static set-up for the low-frequency current and sea-level evolution equations. Analogous relations are derived for wave-averaged material tracers and density stratification that include advection by horizontal Stokes drift and by a vertical Stokes pseudo-velocity that is the incompressible companion to the horizontal Stokes velocity. Illustrative solutions are analysed for the special case of depth-independent currents and tracers associated with an incident surface wave field and a vortex with O(1) Rossby number above continental shelf topography.
The vortex-force representation of the wave-averaged effects on currents is compared to the radiation-stress representation in a scaling regime appropriate to coastal and shelf waters. Three-dimensional and vertically integrated expressions for the conservative current equations are obtained in both representations. The vortex-force representation decomposes the main wave-averaged effects into two physically understandable concepts—a vortex force and a Bernoulli head. The vortex force is shown to be the dominant wave-averaged effect on currents. This effect can occur at higher order than the apparent leading order for the radiation-stress representation. Excluding nonconservative effects such as wave breaking, the lowest-order radiation or interaction stress can be completely characterized in terms of wave setup, forcing of long (infragravity) waves, and an Eulerian current whose divergence cancels that of the primary wave Stokes drift. The leading-order, wave-averaged dynamical effects incorporate the vortex force together with material advection by Stokes drift, modified pressure-continuity and kinematic surface boundary conditions, and parameterized representations of wave generation by the wind and breaking near the shoreline.
1 January 1999 in SIAM Journal on Applied Mathematics
Considered here is a model equation put forward by Benjamin that governs approximately the evolution of waves on the interface of a two-fluid system in which surface-tension effects cannot be ignored. Our principal focus is the traveling-wave solutions called solitary waves, and three aspects will be investigated. A constructive proof of the existence of these waves together with a proof of their stability is developed. Continuation methods are used to generate a scheme capable of numerically approximating these solitary waves. The computer-generated approximations reveal detailed aspects of the structure of these waves. They are symmetric about their crests, but unlike the classical Korteweg--de Vries solitary waves, they feature a finite number of oscillations. The derivation of the equation is also revisited to get an idea of whether or not these oscillatory waves might actually occur in a natural setting.