Accurate wave runup estimations are of great interest for coastal risk assessment and engineering design. Phase-resolving depth-integrated numerical models offer a promising alternative to commonly used empirical formulae at relatively low computational cost. Several operational models are currently freely available and have been extensively used in recent years for the computation of nearshore wave transformations and runup. However, recommendations for best practices on how to correctly utilize these models in computations of runup processes are still sparse. In this work, the Boussinesq-type model BOSZ is applied to calculate runup from irregular waves on intermediate and reflective beaches. The results are compared to an extensive laboratory data set of LiDAR measurements from wave transformation and shoreline elevation oscillations. The physical processes within the surf and swash zones such as the transfer from gravity to infragravity energy and dissipation are accurately accounted for. In addition, time series of the shoreline oscillations are well captured by the model. Comparisons of statistical values such as $R_{2\%}$ show relative errors of less than $6\%$. The sensitivity of the results to various model parameters is investigated to allow for recommendations of best practices for modeling runup with phase-resolving depth-integrated models. While the breaking index is not found to be a key parameter for the examined cases, the grid size and the threshold depth, at which the runup is computed, are found to have significant influence on the results. The use of a time series, which includes both amplitude and phase information, is required for an accurate modeling of swash processes, as shown by computations with different sets of random waves, displaying a high variability and decreasing the agreement between the experiment and the model results substantially. The infragravity swash $S_{IG}$ is found to be sensitive to the initial phase distribution, likely because it is related to the short wave envelope.

It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We conduct a statistical analysis of runs from a nearshore Boussinesq-type model to demonstrate that under certain wave conditions, which a casual observer would perceive as calm, the likelihood of large run-up events is uncharacteristically high. The data computed by the Boussinesq-type model show that sea states with lower overall wave steepness favor higher run-up. Under these wave conditions, more of the available wave energy reaches the shore, since less wave breaking occurs, which can create a false sense of security for beach-goers.

Tsunami waves are often very energetic and therefore pose a significant threat to coastal structures. However, most coastal defenses such as detached breakwaters are designed to protect against storm waves, with the consequence that tsunamis often lead to a catastrophic failure of these structures. This numerical study was inspired by the wave scenario, which occurred at Soma Port in Japan, during the 2011 Tohoku tsunami where a combination of tsunami-type waves and shorter period undular bores caused severe damage to a detached caisson breakwater. The objective herein is to analyze the role that undular bores play on breakwater stability in the case of a tsunami propagating over a gentle slope into shallow water. Two complementary wave models, one of Boussinesq type and the other of Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) volume of fluid (VOF) type, are used to compute the propagation of a representative tsunami composed of multiple waves components and their impact on a detached breakwater. The presence of an undular bore is controlled by the balance between wave nonlinearity and dispersion. As the draw-down from the first wave reduces the water depth around the breakwater and leaves the structure almost completely exposed, only the second wave transforms into an undular bore. This causes wave breaking far offshore from the breakwater where a large amount of energy is dissipated ultimately resulting in much less-destructive wave impact at the structure. The undular bore influences the wave loading on the breakwater, though the bulk of the wave loads and the excessive bearing pressures were computed for the long-lasting overtopping process of the first wave. These findings facilitate the damage assessment of detached breakwaters as they relate some specific tsunami features to structural stability and failure mechanisms. The results also provide information regarding the applicability and usefulness of different numerical modeling approach for the analysis of the stability of detached breakwaters under tsunamis. For this particular case, even depth-integrated numerical models provide conclusive solutions. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first numerical study addressing breakwater stability with respect to the impact of undular bores under tsunami conditions.