Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste products. Drawing inspiration from its biological function, here its potential in cosmetic applications was investigated. CS was recovered from one of the largest coffee roasters located in Switzerland and processed through supercritical CO₂ extraction, thereby generating coffee silverskin extract. Chemical profiling of this extract revealed the presence of potent molecules, among which cafestol and kahweol fatty acid esters, as well as acylglycerols, β-sitosterol and caffeine. The CS extract was then dissolved in organic shea butter, yielding the cosmetic active ingredient SLVR’Coffee™. In vitro gene expression studies performed on keratinocytes showed an upregulation of genes involved in oxidative stress responses and skin-barrier functionality upon treatment with the coffee silverskin extract. In vivo, our active protected the skin against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation and accelerated its recovery. Furthermore, this active extract improved measured as well as perceived skin hydration in female volunteers, making it an innovative, bioinspired ingredient that comforts the skin and benefits the environment.

Rhododendron ferrugineum, commonly named Alpine rose, is an emblematic medicinal plant of European mountains. In this study, the chemical profile of a glycerol/water extract developed from this plant as a cosmetic ingredient is investigated to understand the extract constituent(s) that could mostly contribute to its senolytic activity and skin-rejuvenation effects. For this purpose, the dereplication method “CARAMEL”, which combines Centrifugal Partition Chromatography to Nuclear Magnetic Resonance data interpretation, was directly applied to the hydro-glycerinated extract, leading to the unambiguous identification of fourteen Alpine rose metabolites, despite the strong presence of the heavy solvent glycerol. Flavonoids derived from taxifolin, quercetin, and (+)-catechin were identified as significant constituents of the extract, followed by flavanones, orcinol derivatives, phloroacetophenone, and phenolic acids, as well as the pentacyclic triterpene lupeol. Given that senolytic molecules are known to selectively induce the death of senescent cells without affecting healthy proliferating cells, which can be achieved by the selective inhibition or downregulation of the anti-apoptotic Bcl-2 protein, and considering the well-recognized pro-apoptotic activity of hyperoside, taxifolin, naringenin and farrerol, the senolytic activity of the glycerol/water Alpine rose extract can be explained by the abundance of flavonoids present in the extract.

Difference between excited state deactivation lifetimes of astragalin and kaempferol observed and explained by the systems’ relative access to a S₁/S₀ conical intersection following excited state intramolecular proton transfer.

For scientific, regulatory, and safety reasons, the chemical profile knowledge of natural extracts incorporated in commercial cosmetic formulations is of primary importance. Many extracts are produced or stabilized in glycerin, a practice which hampers their characterization. This article proposes a new methodology for the quick identification of metabolites present in natural extracts when diluted in glycerin. As an extension of a ¹³C nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) based dereplication process, two complementary approaches are presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin: A physical suppression by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) with the appropriate biphasic solvent system EtOAc/CH₃CN/water 3:3:4 (v/v/v) for the crude extract fractionation, and a spectroscopic suppression by presaturation of ¹³C-NMR signals of glycerin applied to glycerin containing fractions. This innovative workflow was applied to a model mixture containing 23 natural metabolites. Dereplication by ¹³C-NMR was applied either on the dry model mixture or after dilution at 5% in glycerin, for comparison, resulting in the detection of 20 out of 23 compounds in the two model mixtures. Subsequently, a natural extract of Cedrus atlantica diluted in glycerin was characterized and resulted in the identification of 12 metabolites. The first annotations by ¹³C-NMR were confirmed by two-dimensional NMR and completed by LC-MS analyses for the annotation of five additional minor compounds. These results demonstrate that the application of physical suppression by CPC and presaturation of ¹³C-NMR solvent signals highly facilitates the quick chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin.

Plants, as with humans, require photoprotection against the potentially damaging effects of overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Previously, sinapoyl malate (SM) was identified as the photoprotective agent in thale cress. Here, we seek to identify the photoprotective agent in a similar plant, garden cress, which is currently used in the skincare product Detoxophane nc. To achieve this, we explore the photodynamics of both the garden cress sprout extract and Detoxophane nc with femtosecond transient electronic absorption spectroscopy. With the assistance of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, we determine that the main UV-absorbing compound in garden cress sprout extract is SM. Importantly, our studies reveal that the photoprotection properties of the SM in the garden cress sprout extract present in Detoxophane nc are not compromised by the formulation environment. The result suggests that Detoxophane nc containing the garden cress sprout extract may offer additional photoprotection to the end user in the form of a UV filter booster.

The moss Physcomitrium patens (P. patens), formerly known as Physcomitrella patens, has ascended to prominence as a pivotal model organism in plant biology. Its simplicity in structure and life cycle, coupled with genetic amenability, has rendered it indispensable in unraveling the complexities of land plant evolution and responses to environmental stimuli. As an evolutionary bridge between algae and vascular plants, P. patens offers a unique perspective on early terrestrial adaptation. This research involved the biotechnological cultivation of P. patens, followed by a deep phytochemical investigation of two extracts covering a large polarity range together using an NMR-based dereplication approach combined with GC/MS analyses. Subsequently, a multidisciplinary approach combining bioinformatics, in-silico techniques, and traditional methods was adopted to uncover intriguing molecules such as the diterpene ceruchinol and its potential receptor interactions for future cosmetic applications. The kaurene diterpene ceruchinol, representing up to 50% of the supercritical CO₂ extract and also identified in the hydroalcoholic extract, was selected for the molecular docking study, which highlighted several biological targets as CAR, AKR1D1, and 17β-HSD1 for potential cosmetic use. These findings offer valuable insights for novel uses of this plant biomass in the future.