Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste products. Drawing inspiration from its biological function, here its potential in cosmetic applications was investigated. CS was recovered from one of the largest coffee roasters located in Switzerland and processed through supercritical CO₂ extraction, thereby generating coffee silverskin extract. Chemical profiling of this extract revealed the presence of potent molecules, among which cafestol and kahweol fatty acid esters, as well as acylglycerols, β-sitosterol and caffeine. The CS extract was then dissolved in organic shea butter, yielding the cosmetic active ingredient SLVR’Coffee™. In vitro gene expression studies performed on keratinocytes showed an upregulation of genes involved in oxidative stress responses and skin-barrier functionality upon treatment with the coffee silverskin extract. In vivo, our active protected the skin against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation and accelerated its recovery. Furthermore, this active extract improved measured as well as perceived skin hydration in female volunteers, making it an innovative, bioinspired ingredient that comforts the skin and benefits the environment.

Hair loss affects millions of people worldwide, but currently available treatment options are often dissatisfying due to side effects or limited efficacy. Pea sprout extract has been shown to improve hair density when applied topically, but its mode of action and effectiveness upon oral administration remain unknown. Our study has now shown that the application of a fluid containing 2% pea sprout extract on a defined scalp zone of 10 volunteers enhances the expression of defined genes relevant for hair, namely fibroblast growth factor‐7 (FGF7) and noggin, by 56 and 85%, respectively. Additionally, a subsequent pilot nutrition intervention study in 21 volunteers proved that pea sprout extract is also effective when consumed as dietary supplement. The daily intake of 100 mg pea sprout extract (AnaGain™ Nu) for 8 weeks significantly reduced hair loss already after 28 days of treatment (p < 0.002). No adverse events were reported. Consequently, pea sprout extract may be an effective means to safely promote hair growth and reduce hair loss in individuals experiencing excessive hair shedding.

Rhododendron ferrugineum, commonly named Alpine rose, is an emblematic medicinal plant of European mountains. In this study, the chemical profile of a glycerol/water extract developed from this plant as a cosmetic ingredient is investigated to understand the extract constituent(s) that could mostly contribute to its senolytic activity and skin-rejuvenation effects. For this purpose, the dereplication method “CARAMEL”, which combines Centrifugal Partition Chromatography to Nuclear Magnetic Resonance data interpretation, was directly applied to the hydro-glycerinated extract, leading to the unambiguous identification of fourteen Alpine rose metabolites, despite the strong presence of the heavy solvent glycerol. Flavonoids derived from taxifolin, quercetin, and (+)-catechin were identified as significant constituents of the extract, followed by flavanones, orcinol derivatives, phloroacetophenone, and phenolic acids, as well as the pentacyclic triterpene lupeol. Given that senolytic molecules are known to selectively induce the death of senescent cells without affecting healthy proliferating cells, which can be achieved by the selective inhibition or downregulation of the anti-apoptotic Bcl-2 protein, and considering the well-recognized pro-apoptotic activity of hyperoside, taxifolin, naringenin and farrerol, the senolytic activity of the glycerol/water Alpine rose extract can be explained by the abundance of flavonoids present in the extract.

The moss Physcomitrium patens (P. patens), formerly known as Physcomitrella patens, has ascended to prominence as a pivotal model organism in plant biology. Its simplicity in structure and life cycle, coupled with genetic amenability, has rendered it indispensable in unraveling the complexities of land plant evolution and responses to environmental stimuli. As an evolutionary bridge between algae and vascular plants, P. patens offers a unique perspective on early terrestrial adaptation. This research involved the biotechnological cultivation of P. patens, followed by a deep phytochemical investigation of two extracts covering a large polarity range together using an NMR-based dereplication approach combined with GC/MS analyses. Subsequently, a multidisciplinary approach combining bioinformatics, in-silico techniques, and traditional methods was adopted to uncover intriguing molecules such as the diterpene ceruchinol and its potential receptor interactions for future cosmetic applications. The kaurene diterpene ceruchinol, representing up to 50% of the supercritical CO₂ extract and also identified in the hydroalcoholic extract, was selected for the molecular docking study, which highlighted several biological targets as CAR, AKR1D1, and 17β-HSD1 for potential cosmetic use. These findings offer valuable insights for novel uses of this plant biomass in the future.

The complex process of skin aging results in noticeable changes, including decreased collagen content, reduced elasticity, and decreased hydration. Interventions to preserve or restore collagen, a key structural protein, may help counteract these signs. The concept of "beauty from within” through nutritional supplements is of growing interest, particularly the use of plant-based alternatives to animal-derived or synthetic collagen. This study investigated the anti-aging potential of an extract from Moldavian dragonhead (Dracocephalum moldavica L.), a natural plant-based compound. In vitro studies have shown that the extract stimulates genes crucial for skin structure. Further, a double-masked, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in female volunteers demonstrated that oral supplementation with the extract significantly improves skin hydration and increases dermal and full-skin thickness. These findings suggest that the Moldavian dragonhead extract is a promising natural alternative to traditional interventions, offering a holistic approach to improve the skin's dermal network and combat skin aging.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun causes adverse skin changes such as premature aging. UV-induced mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) alterations, including deletions, contribute to photoaging and cellular dysfunction. While the most frequent mtDNA rearrangement is the common deletion (CD), characterized by the loss of nearly one-third of the genome (4977 bp), detailed knowledge of mechanisms governing UV-mediated initiation of the CD and mitigation strategies are lacking. Here, we investigated how increasing UV exposure increases CD levels in human skin fibroblasts via cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and mtDNA oxidation and demonstrated that antioxidant preconditioning of cells prevents UVA-induced CD accumulation. Conversely, UVB exposure induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) without affecting ROS, suggesting an ROS-independent pathway. Using a 3D full-thickness human skin model, we confirmed UVA-dependent CD formation in both the epidermis and dermis. RNA-Seq analysis of UVA-exposed fibroblasts revealed upregulation of mitochondrial DNA replication genes and downregulation of mtDNA repair genes. These findings provide insight into how UVA and UVB differ in detrimental effects on mtDNA, with UVA impacting mtDNA maintenance and transcription via a ROS-dependent mechanism, and provide a physiologically relevant platform to evaluate potential interventions.