Dendrimers are increasingly being studied in the context of encapsulation. Many potential applications of dendrimers are based on their properties. They are used in drug delivery systems, cosmetics, food and chemistry. This review is first devoted to different synthesis approaches for dendrimers and to their ability to encapsulate active molecules. Their applications in different fields, as well as their cytotoxicity, are then detailed. To conclude this review, the main works on the interaction of dendrimers with the stratum corneum (SC) are also presented.

Vitamin C is one of the most sensitive cosmetic active ingredients. To avoid its degradation, its encapsulation into biobased carriers such as dendrimers is one alternative of interest. In this work, we wanted to evaluate the potential of two biobased glycerodendrimer families (GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(AmidoAmine) (GD-PAMAMs) or GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(Propylene Imine) (GD-PPIs)) as a vitamin C carrier for topical application. The higher encapsulation capacity of GD-PAMAM-3 compared to commercial PAMAM-3 and different GD-PPIs, and its absence of cytotoxicity towards dermal cells, make it a good candidate. Investigation of its mechanism of action was done by using two kinds of biomimetic models of stratum corneum (SC), lipid monolayers and liposomes. GD-PAMAM-3 and VitC@GD-PAMAM-3 (GD-PAMAM-3 with encapsulated vitamin C) can both interact with the lipid representatives of the SC lipid matrix, whichever pH is considered. However, only pH 5.0 is suggested to be favorable to release vitamin C into the SC matrix. Their binding to SC-biomimetic liposomes revealed only a slight effect on membrane permeability in accordance with the absence of cytotoxicity but an increase in membrane rigidity, suggesting a reinforcement of the SC barrier property. Globally, our results suggest that the dendrimer GD-PAMAM-3 could be an efficient carrier for cosmetic applications.

We developed a synthesis of chiral ionic liquids from proline and one of its derivatives. Nine chiral ionic liquids were synthesized with yields from 78% to 95%. These synthesized ionic liquids played two roles in Michael reactions, as solvents, and as basic catalysts, where the ionic phase could also be reused at least five times without loss of activity. The yields up to 99% were improved by increasing the amount of dimethylmalonate from 1.2 equivalents to 3 or 4 equivalents. Furthermore, the reaction time could be reduced from 24 h to 45 min through microwaves activation.

For this study, new dendrimers were prepared from poly(propylene imine) (PPI) and polyamidoamine (PAMAM) dendrimers using an efficient acid-base reaction with various phenolic acids. The syntheses were also optimized in both microwave and microfluidic reactors. These ionic and hydrophilic dendrimers were fully characterized and showed excellent antioxidant properties. Their cytotoxic properties have been also determined in the case of fibroblast dermal cells.

Six biobased ionic liquids were prepared from saturated fatty acids (octanoic, decanoic and dodecanoic acids) and choline with yields up to 90% following procedures respecting green chemistry principles. These ionic liquids were fully characterized (NMR, IR, elemental analysis, viscosimetry and TGA) and used as extraction solvents for bioactive compounds (curcuminoids and carvacrol) using classical conditions, and the ionic liquids were able to be recovered after five runs without loss of activity. The ionic liquid containing a C12 carbon chain was the best extracting solvent, extracting 95% of the total curcuminoids contained in turmeric and 69% of the total carvacrol contained in oregano, which are higher yields compared to the extraction procedures described in the literature. As C12 ionic liquids were more cytotoxic than C8 ones, the biological activity of the curcuminoids extracted with C8 ionic liquids was evaluated on a MIAPaCa-2, a pancreatic adenocarcinoma cell line for which antitumor activity of curcuminoids had previously been reported. Compared to the cytotoxicity of the commercially available extract, the cytotoxic activity of the extracts was slightly weaker.