Skin is being increasingly exposed to artificial blue light due to the extensive use of electronic devices, which can induce cell oxidative stress, causing signs of early photo aging. The Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new standardized cosmetic ingredient obtained by an in vitro plant cell culture with a high content of rosmarinic acid. In this study, we examine the activity of the Melissa officinalis phytocomplex to protect skin against blue light and infrared damages, evaluating the ROS (Radical Oxygen Species) level in keratinocyte cell line from human skin (HaCaT) and Nrf2 (Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), elastin, and MMP1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase 1) immunostaining in living human skin explants ex vivo. This phytocomplex demonstrates antioxidant activity by reducing ROS production and thus the oxidant damage of the skin caused by UV and blue light exposure. In addition, it inhibits blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity, IR-induced elastin alteration, and IR-induced MMP-1 release. This Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new innovative active ingredient for cosmetic products that is able to protect skin against light and screen exposure damages and oxidative stress.

In-vitro cell cultures of selected Rosa chinensis meristematic cells cultivated with an innovative CROP^® (Controlled Release of Optimized Plants) platform, allowed obtaining a stable and standardized phytocomplex rich of medium molecular weight polysaccharides. The polysaccharides profile of the rose extract has been analysed with the size exclusion chromatography (HPLC-ELSD-SEC) both in the in vitro extract and in the dried petals of Rosa chinensis. The polysaccharides content in the extract was ≥20%, higher than in the dried petals. The 65–80% of total polysaccharides have a medium molecular weight (1000 Da), known for their moisturizing and anti-age properties. Reconstructed human epidermis in homeostatic conditions was used to evaluate its moisturizing action and the ability to maintain homeostasis. The Rosa chinensis extract increased the Aquaporin-3 expression and cell membrane localization and demonstrated to regulate hydration either in topical and systemic exposure.