Skin is being increasingly exposed to artificial blue light due to the extensive use of electronic devices, which can induce cell oxidative stress, causing signs of early photo aging. The Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new standardized cosmetic ingredient obtained by an in vitro plant cell culture with a high content of rosmarinic acid. In this study, we examine the activity of the Melissa officinalis phytocomplex to protect skin against blue light and infrared damages, evaluating the ROS (Radical Oxygen Species) level in keratinocyte cell line from human skin (HaCaT) and Nrf2 (Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), elastin, and MMP1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase 1) immunostaining in living human skin explants ex vivo. This phytocomplex demonstrates antioxidant activity by reducing ROS production and thus the oxidant damage of the skin caused by UV and blue light exposure. In addition, it inhibits blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity, IR-induced elastin alteration, and IR-induced MMP-1 release. This Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new innovative active ingredient for cosmetic products that is able to protect skin against light and screen exposure damages and oxidative stress.
The negative impact of using conventional fungicides in plant disease protection has increased the interest in safer alternatives such as plant secondary metabolites, generally having a better toxicological profile. However, cultivation conditions and plant material strongly affect the quality and quantity of secondary metabolites obtained from field grown plants, limiting the standardization needed for industrial production. Plant cell culture technology can provide highly homogeneous biomasses with specific chemical characteristics. A phytocomplex with high rosmarinic acid content (10.12% w/w) was obtained from a selected cell line of Salvia officinalis and was tested against the grapevine downy mildew pathogen, Plasmopara viticola. Grapevine leaf discs were sprayed with the phytocomplex at 5 g/L and then inoculated with P. viticola sporangia. Sporulation level on each disc was assessed after 7 days with an image processing software. The phytocomplex reduced by 95% the sporulation level compared to the control and was also more effective than rosmarinic acid alone, used at the same concentration found in the phytocomplex. Persistence of the phytocomplex was also assessed: when applied 5 days before inoculation, it reduced by 90% the sporulation level compared to the control. These results highlight the possibility to take advantage of cell culture techniques to produce safer pesticides with high quality standards.