The demand for halal cosmetic products among the 2.4 billion Muslim consumers worldwide is increasing. However, the demand for halal cosmetics remains unmet because cosmetics production is dominated by non-halal cosmetic manufacturers, whose production methods may not conform with the requirements of halal science. The development of halal cosmetics and the assessment of their product performance is still in its infancy. The integration of halal science in the manufacture of most cosmetic products remains inadequate. Moreover, there is a global dearth of guiding documents on the development and assessment techniques in the production of comprehensively halal cosmetics. This paper aims to abridge existing literature and knowledge of halal and cosmetic science in order to provide essential technical guidance in the manufacture of halal cosmetics. In addition, the adoption of these methods addresses the unique ethical issues associated with conformance of cosmetics’ product performance to religious practices and halal science. It highlights the applicability of established methods in skin science in the assessment of halal cosmetics.

The ban on the use of animals in testing cosmetic products has led to the development of animal-free in vitro methods. Strat-M^® is an artificial membrane engineered to mimic human skin and is recommended as a replacement for skin. However, its usefulness in the assessment of the permeation of cosmetics in in-use conditions remains unverified. No data have been published on its comparative performance with the membrane of choice, porcine skin. The comparative permeability characteristics of Strat-M^® and porcine skin were investigated using Franz diffusion cells. Caffeine (CF) and rhododendrol (RD) in complex vehicles with varying concentrations of polyols were applied as finite and infinite doses. Good rank orders of permeation from finite dose experiments were observed for RD. High correlations were observed in RD permeation between Strat-M^® and porcine skin under finite and infinite dose conditions, whereas only finite dose conditions for CF were associated with good correlations. Permeation from formulations with high polyol content and residual formulations was enhanced due to the disruption of the integrity of the Strat-M^® barrier. The usefulness of Strat-M^® in the assessment of dermal permeation may be limited to finite dose conditions and not applicable to infinite dose conditions or formulations applied in layers.

This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed^®, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log P (cLog P) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD₅₀ values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog P values for porcine (r = 0.114) and rabbit (r = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (r = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (r = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (n = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio.

Ellagic acid (EA), a natural polyphenol found in berries, has high antioxidant capacity. This study aimed to improve EA solubility by complex formation with urea (UR) using solvent evaporation method and evaluate its solubility, antioxidant capacity, and physical properties. The solubility test (25 °C, 72 h) showed that the solubility of EVP (EA/UR = 1/1) was approximately two-fold higher than that of EA (7.13 µg/mL versus 3.99 µg/mL). Moreover, the IC₅₀ values of EA and EVP (EA/UR = 1/1) (1.50 µg/mL and 1.30 µg/mL, respectively) showed higher antioxidant capacity of EVP than that of EA. DSC analysis revealed that the UR peak at 134 °C disappeared, and a new endothermic peak was observed at approximately 250 °C for EVP (EA/UR = 1/1). PXRD measurements showed that the characteristic peaks of EA at 2θ = 12.0° and 28.0° and of UR at 2θ = 22.0°, 24.3°, and 29.1° disappeared and that new peaks were identified at 2θ = 10.6°, 18.7°, and 26.8° for EVP (EA/UR = 1/1). According to 2D NOESY NMR spectroscopy, cross-peaks were observed between the -NH and -OH groups, suggesting intermolecular interactions between EA and UR. Therefore, complexation was confirmed in EA/UR = 1/1 prepared by solvent evaporation, suggesting that it contributed to the improvement in solubility and antioxidant capacity of EA.