As public attention on sustainability is increasing, the use of polysaccharides as rheological modifiers in skin-care products is becoming the first choice. Polysaccharide associations can be used to increase the spreading properties of products and to optimize their sensorial profile. Since the choice of natural raw materials for cosmetics is wide, instrumental methodologies are useful for formulators to easily characterize the materials and to create mixtures with specific applicative properties. In this work, we performed rheological and texture analyses on samples formulated with binary and ternary associations of polysaccharides to investigate their structural and mechanical features as a function of the concentration ratios. The rheological measurements were conducted under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions using a rotational rheometer. An immersion/de-immersion test conducted with a texture analyzer allowed us to measure some textural parameters. Sclerotium gum and iota-carrageenan imparted high viscosity, elasticity, and firmness in the system; carob gum and pectin influenced the viscoelastic properties and determined high adhesiveness and cohesiveness. The results indicated that these natural polymers combined in appropriate ratios can provide a wide range of different textures and that the use of these two complementary techniques represents a valid pre-screening tool for the formulation of green products.

Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience.

Vegetable oils are bio−based and sustainable starting materials that can be used to develop chemicals for industrial processes. In this study, the functionalization of three vegetable oils (grape, hemp, and linseed) with maleic anhydride was carried out either by conventional heating or microwave activation to obtain products that, after further reactions, can enhance the water dispersion of oils for industrial applications. To identify the most abundant derivatives formed, trans-3-octene, methyl oleate, and ethyl linoleate were reacted as reference systems. A detailed NMR study, supported by computational evidence, allowed for the identification of the species formed in the reaction of trans-3-octene with maleic anhydride. The signals in the ¹H NMR spectra of the alkenyl succinic anhydride (ASA) moieties bound to the organic chains were clearly identified. The reactions achieved by conventional heating were carried out for 5 h at 200 °C, resulting in similar or lower amounts of ASA units/g of oil with respect to the reactions performed by microwave activation, which, however, induced a higher viscosity of the samples.

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a deep transformation driven by rapid innovation, evolving consumer expectations, and increasing demands for sustainability. Formulators are required to design products that combine functional efficacy, stability, and appealing sensory properties while adopting environmentally responsible strategies. Traditional empirical and sensory-based approaches, though valuable, are often limited by high costs, time, subjectivity and lack of reproducibility. In this context, instrumental techniques provide an objective and predictive means to optimize product performance. Rheology, texture analysis, and tribology offer complementary insights into the structure, mechanical behavior, and interfacial phenomena of cosmetic formulations, all of which are closely linked to application behavior and sensory perception. Their integration enables a quantitative correlation between formulation composition, process conditions, and tactile performance. This review critically examines recent advances in the integrated use of rheology, texture analysis and tribology in cosmetic science, highlighting their role in sensory prediction, stability assessment, scale-up and eco-design. Together, these instrumental approaches support a more data-driven and innovation-oriented formulation paradigm, enabling database development and predictive modeling. Future research should prioritize database expansion, in vivo validation and machine learning integration to further improve sensory prediction and accelerate the design of advanced cosmetic formulations.

Technological innovation in the cosmetic field must necessarily consider not only the safety and efficacy requirements but also the growing attention to environmental issues and the need for sensory pleasure during application to satisfy the consumers’ expectations. This work aimed to formulate an oil-in-water fluid emulsion stabilized by the combination of organic and inorganic powders, namely Zea mays starch and zinc oxide associated at different ratios in presence of a polysaccharidic rheological modifier. After verifying the physical stability of the prototypes with a mechanical stress test in a centrifuge, the rheological analyses were conducted in continuous and oscillatory flow conditions, and the immersion/de-immersion test, conducted using a texture analyzer, allowed identifying the system with the viscoelastic characteristics and the parameters of textures, such as firmness, consistency, and adhesiveness, more suitable for the formulation of skin-care products with low viscosity and high spreadability. Finally, we studied the compatibility of the powders with sunscreen filters and pigments, to optimize the systems and assess their potential use in finished products.

Maintaining insoluble plant-based ingredients in suspension and ensuring long-term physical stability is particularly challenging for formulators of green cosmetics. This study aimed to evaluate the structure and applicative properties of gel and gel-cream topical formulations suitable for delivering an insoluble phytocomplex on the vaginal mucosa and maintaining its integrity. For this purpose, we studied the compatibility of Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton phytocomplex (PFP), derived from in vitro plant cell cultures and presented as a powder finely dispersed in glycerin, with different classes of natural rheological modifiers (such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglycan, xyloglucan, diutan gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum derivative) in gel and gel-cream formulations, to meet the needs of the cosmetic market for naturalness and biodegradability. Through rheological and texture analyses, we studied the physico–mechanical properties of the samples, comparing the performances of the chosen polysaccharides to those of acrylic polymeric rheological modifiers, evaluating their contribution in terms of stability and applicative properties. Since a weak-gel rheological pattern proved to be the optimal one to keep the actives in suspension, the associations of tamarind seed polysaccharides with succinoglycan or scleroglucan were the most suitable for the formulation of mucoadhesive gels.