In the last years, the medicinal plant Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton has gained scientific interest because leaf extracts, due to the presence of rosmarinic acid and other polyphenols, have shown anti-allergic and skin protective potential in pre-clinical studies. Nevertheless, the lack of standardized extracts has limited clinical applications to date. In this work, for the first time, a standardized phytocomplex of P. frutescens, enriched in rosmarinic acid and total polyphenols, was produced through innovative in vitro cell culture biotechnology and tested. The activity of perilla was evaluated in an in vitro inflammatory model of human keratinocytes (HaCaT) by monitoring tight junctions, filaggrin, and loricrin protein levels, the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and JNK MAPK signaling. In a practical health care application, the perilla biotechnological phytocomplex was tested in a multilayer model of vaginal mucosa, and then, in a preliminary clinical observation to explore its capacity to preserve vaginal mucosal integrity in women in peri-menopause. In keratinocytes cells, perilla phytocomplex demonstrated to exert a marked activity in epidermis barrier maintenance and anti-inflammatory effects, preserving tight junction expression and downregulating cytokines release through targeting JNK activation. Furthermore, perilla showed positive effects in retaining vaginal mucosal integrity in the reconstructed vaginal mucosa model and in vivo tests. Overall, our data suggest that the biotechnological P. frutescens phytocomplex could represent an innovative ingredient for dermatological applications.

This study focused on the biological evaluation and chemical characterization of a new ingredient obtained by in vitro cell culture of Rhus coriaria L. An in vitro plant cell culture method permits to cultivate plant in a short period of time and to obtain extract with a high safety profile for the consumer, free from heavy metals, pesticides, aflatoxins, bacterial or fungal contamination. Through the selection of specific cell culture media, it was possible to obtain a Rhus coriaria cell line with a high content of gallic acid derivatives. The Rhus coriaria L. phytocomplex (RC-P), containing 7.6% w/w of acid gallic derivatives, was obtained by drying of plant cell biomass after 14 days of growth in the final selected culture medium. UPLC-ESI-MS and UPLC-DAD analysis allowed to identify numerous gallic acid derivatives, such as galloyl hexose, trigalloyl hexose and high molecular weight galloyl derivatives, and to quantify their overall content. The antioxidant activity of the RC-P was tested by DPPH assay and the wound healing activity was evaluated using a scratch wound healing test on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. This work showed that RC-P could be a new effective cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant and skin repair activity.

Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench is one of the most economically important medicinal plants, cultivated worldwide for its high medicinal value and with several industrial applications in both pharmaceutical and food industries. Thanks to its various phytochemical contents, including caffeic acid derivatives (CADs), E. purpurea extracts have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immuno-stimulating properties. Among CADs, chicoric acid is one of the most important compounds which have shown important pharmacological properties. The present research was aimed at optimizing the production of chicoric acid in E. purpurea cell culture. Methyl jasmonate (MeJa) at different concentrations and for different duration of treatments was utilized as elicitor, and the content of total polyphenols and chicoric acid was measured. Several genes involved in the chicoric acid biosynthetic pathway were selected, and their expression evaluated at different time points of cell culture growth. This was performed with the aim of identifying the most suitable putative molecular markers to be used as a proxy for the early prediction of chicoric acid contents, without the need of expensive quantification methods. A correlation between the production of chicoric acid in response to MeJa and an increased response to oxidative stress was also proposed.

The negative impact of using conventional fungicides in plant disease protection has increased the interest in safer alternatives such as plant secondary metabolites, generally having a better toxicological profile. However, cultivation conditions and plant material strongly affect the quality and quantity of secondary metabolites obtained from field grown plants, limiting the standardization needed for industrial production. Plant cell culture technology can provide highly homogeneous biomasses with specific chemical characteristics. A phytocomplex with high rosmarinic acid content (10.12% w/w) was obtained from a selected cell line of Salvia officinalis and was tested against the grapevine downy mildew pathogen, Plasmopara viticola. Grapevine leaf discs were sprayed with the phytocomplex at 5 g/L and then inoculated with P. viticola sporangia. Sporulation level on each disc was assessed after 7 days with an image processing software. The phytocomplex reduced by 95% the sporulation level compared to the control and was also more effective than rosmarinic acid alone, used at the same concentration found in the phytocomplex. Persistence of the phytocomplex was also assessed: when applied 5 days before inoculation, it reduced by 90% the sporulation level compared to the control. These results highlight the possibility to take advantage of cell culture techniques to produce safer pesticides with high quality standards.

Maintaining insoluble plant-based ingredients in suspension and ensuring long-term physical stability is particularly challenging for formulators of green cosmetics. This study aimed to evaluate the structure and applicative properties of gel and gel-cream topical formulations suitable for delivering an insoluble phytocomplex on the vaginal mucosa and maintaining its integrity. For this purpose, we studied the compatibility of Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton phytocomplex (PFP), derived from in vitro plant cell cultures and presented as a powder finely dispersed in glycerin, with different classes of natural rheological modifiers (such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglycan, xyloglucan, diutan gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum derivative) in gel and gel-cream formulations, to meet the needs of the cosmetic market for naturalness and biodegradability. Through rheological and texture analyses, we studied the physico–mechanical properties of the samples, comparing the performances of the chosen polysaccharides to those of acrylic polymeric rheological modifiers, evaluating their contribution in terms of stability and applicative properties. Since a weak-gel rheological pattern proved to be the optimal one to keep the actives in suspension, the associations of tamarind seed polysaccharides with succinoglycan or scleroglucan were the most suitable for the formulation of mucoadhesive gels.

Background: Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.) DC., commonly known as Japanese pepper, is a deciduous shrub native to East Asia. Its berries are widely used as a spice, known for imparting a distinctive, tingly numbing sensation. Biologically, Z. piperitum has antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, and it is studied for its potential benefits in pain relief and digestive health. This study proposed a novel biotechnological Z. piperitum phytocomplex (ZPP) obtained by plant cell culture for skin health, specifically targeting collagen synthesis, extracellular matrix stability, and resilience against cellular stress. Given the bioactivity of Z. piperitum, we aimed to analyze its efficacy as a sustainable alternative for skin-supportive applications in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: ZPP was produced through stable plant cell cultures, yielding a lignan-rich (3.02% w/w) phytocomplex. Human fibroblasts (HFFs) were treated with varying ZPP concentrations to assess cellular viability, collagen metabolism, and ECM-related enzyme activities, both under normal and cell stress conditions. The in vivo assessment was performed by measuring biophysical skin parameters such as hydration, elasticity, and roughness in female volunteers for a period of six weeks. Results: In vitro, ZPP exhibited non-cytotoxicity at all concentrations tested. Under hyperosmotic stress, ZPP reduced cellular damage, suggesting enhanced resilience. ZPP upregulated lysyl oxidase (LOX) protein levels, critical for collagen cross-linking and ECM stability, with protective effects observed under oxidative/inflammatory conditions. Additionally, ZPP selectively inhibited collagenase, attenuating collagen breakdown, though antioxidant activity was modest. In vivo evaluation highlighted improved skin hydration, elasticity, and roughness. Conclusions: ZPP shows promise as a biotechnological agent for skin health, particularly in supporting collagen integrity, ECM stabilization, and cellular resilience under stress. While further studies are needed to explore its full efficacy, especially for aging and environmentally stressed skin, these findings highlight ZPP’s potential as a new ingredient for cosmetic formulations aimed at skin care and the treatment of alterations caused by aging or environmental conditions.