Protective textiles used for military applications must fulfill a variety of functional requirements, including durability, resistance to environmental conditions and ballistic threats, all while being comfortable and lightweight. In addition, these textiles must provide camouflage and concealment under various environmental conditions and, thus, a range of wavelengths on the electromagnetic spectrum. Similar requirements may exist for other applications, for instance hunting. With improvements in infrared sensing technology, the focus of protective textile research and development has shifted solely from providing visible camouflage to providing camouflage in the infrared (IR) region. Smart textiles, which can monitor and react to the textile wearer or environmental stimuli, have been applied to protective textiles to improve camouflage in the IR spectral range. This study presents a review of current smart textile technologies for visible and IR signature control of protective textiles, including coloration techniques, chromic materials, conductive polymers, and phase change materials. We propose novel fabrication technology combinations using various microfabrication techniques (e.g., three-dimensional (3D) printing; microfluidics; machine learning) to improve the visible and IR signature management of protective textiles and discuss possible challenges in terms of compatibility with the different textile performance requirements.

Worldwide demand for man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCF) are increasing as availability of cotton fibre declines due to climate change. Feedstock for MMCF include virgin wood, agricultural residues (e.g., straw), and pre- and post-consumer cellulosic materials high in alpha-cellulose content. Lyocell MMCF (L-MMCF) offer large advantages over other MMCF processes in terms of both environmental and social impacts: the solvent for cellulosic dissolution, n-methyl-morpholine-n-oxide, can be recycled, and the process utilizes non-toxic chemicals and low amounts of water. Hemp can be a preferential cellulosic feedstock for L-MMCF as hemp cultivation results in carbon dioxide sequestration, and it requires less water, fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides than other L-MMCF feedstock crops. These factors contribute to hemp being an environmentally conscious crop. The increased legalization of industrial hemp cultivation, as well as recent lifts on cannabis restrictions worldwide, allows accessibility to local sources of cellulose for the L-MMCF process. In addition, hemp biomass can offer a much larger feedstock for L-MMCF production per annum than other cellulosic sources, such as eucalyptus trees and bamboo. This paper offers perspectives on the agricultural, manufacturing, and economic opportunities and challenges of utilizing hemp biomass for the manufacturing of L-MMCF.

The clothing and textile industry has become one of the world’s greatest polluters as tremendous volumes of clothing are produced, used, and disposed of at alarming rates. The industry must transition from its linear take-make-waste model towards a circular economy where textile products are kept in circulation and waste is minimized or eliminated. Product stewardship, an environmental management strategy where producers take responsibility for their products through design to the end-of-life stage, is one option to enable the circular economy. The aim of this research was to explore stakeholder drivers, barriers, and strategies for product stewardship participation in New Zealand. Qualitative data gathered through interview and survey methods of 25 stakeholder perspectives including designers, manufacturers, and retailers were analysed for emerging themes. Key findings suggest that product stewardship operating within the current linear system can only go so far; changes must occur at every stage of the value chain with all stakeholders making efforts towards circularity. Given the complexity of the product stewardship system, greater government regulation and incentive policies are likely needed to mainstream product stewardship and increase its material impact. The results of this study highlight the importance of contextual factors and capacities for tailoring regional product stewardship schemes to local needs.

Framed within Entwistle’s perspective of dress as “situated bodily practice” and olfactory impression management, we explored the topic of odor in clothing. A series of eight focus group interviews were used to explore the types of odors that can adhere to clothing, commonalities among clothing or textile properties that accentuate odor, and odor management practices to control, reduce or avoid odor building up in clothing. We found that many different sources of odor can permeate clothing fabrics and most odors are deemed unpleasant and unwanted. Odors arising from the body, particularly from sweat, were the most commonly cited source of odor. As part of everyday routines, individuals undergo a series of separate and interconnected odor management practices to prevent, control, or eliminate odor in their clothing. Among these, laundering clothing was the most common practice. However, individuals also attempted to control odor at the source, using the “sniff test” to assess odor and actively avoid certain items of clothing known to be persistently odorous. We also found that odor management included a progressive delegation of odorous clothing from one’s “civilized wardrobe” to other uses where odor may not matter or odor was unavoidable. It is clear that part of the embodied practice of selecting, wearing and caring for clothing, odor acts as a sign for interacting appropriately within the social world.