The textile and apparel production and consumption generate a huge amount of solid textile waste. Mechanical recycling is one main method to recycle cotton waste; however, shredding in mechanical recycling shortens fiber length and reduces fiber quality. As a result, the application of mechanically recycled textiles may be limited. This research investigated mechanical methods to recycle post-consumer cotton textile waste and designed and developed second-life products. This study applied research through design methodology and documented step-by-step textile and product development practices to communicate the results. Using the textiles from deconstructed end-of-use garments with a high cotton content (80% or higher), combined with other materials, the researchers developed yarns, and nonwoven, woven, quilted, tufted fabrics. The researchers tested textile properties such as “yarn” tensile strength and elongation, fabric thickness, thermal resistance, air permeability, and stiffness. Using fabrics developed from end-of-use cotton waste, the researchers designed and developed high-value products such as bags, decorative textile, a hat, cell phone and glasses cases, and garments to contribute to the sustainability and circularity of cotton.

The negative environmental impacts of the current linear system of textile and apparel production are well-documented and require urgent action. The sector lacks an effective recycling system, resulting in massive waste and environmental pollution. This paper presents the results of qualitative research involving textile and apparel industry stakeholders, including representatives from brands and retailers, waste collectors, recyclers, non-profit organizations, academic institutions, and government agencies. Our research focused on stakeholder perceptions of the significance and importance of textile circularity, the challenges that exist for transitioning the textile and apparel industry from a linear system to a circular economy (CE), and resources that exist to support this transition. The results of this study call attention to the following urgent requirements: a consistent definition of CE to promote transparency and accountability and prevent greenwashing; improved systems for materials identification, sorting, and pre-processing of post-consumer textile waste to enable recycling; innovations in mechanical recycling technologies to maintain the value of recycled materials; and new, materials-driven approaches to design and manufacturing that are responsive to feedstock variability and diverse consumer needs. The research findings also suggest the need for flexible, regional CEs that are rooted in community partnerships.

The production of textiles, apparel, and footwear causes resource depletion, environmental pollution, and human health problems. This research developed materials, i.e. water-resistant but breathable composites as leather substitutes (eco-leather), a thermosetting resin, and a hard composite, from bio-based sources such as plant oils, natural fibre cloth, and chicken feather fibres. These materials, together with commercially available environmentally friendly natural textiles, were used to develop shoes and a coat. Wear tests and questionnaire surveys were conducted with female college students to evaluate the users’ acceptance of materials and prototypes. It was found that the environmentally friendly materials used in the shoes and coat were comfortable. The participants thought the renewable bio-based materials developed from plant oils and natural fibres were wearable, versatile, and practical. If the design and style met their requirements, the participants expressed they would like to buy apparel and footwear products made from these environmentally friendly materials.

Textile and apparel represent one of the most globalised industries which can have negative impacts on the environment and social equity. This research used locally grown natural materials, including sheep's wool, mohair, and plant-sourced natural dyes, from a university campus and surrounding areas to develop textiles. The study demonstrated that local production can be a sustainable development strategy with economic, environmental, and social benefits. Focus group discussions and a questionnaire survey were conducted with university students to evaluate the users’ acceptance of the locally produced textiles. A majority of the participants liked the colours of the textiles, thought the textile yarns and scarf made from local materials were beautiful and comfortable, and were willing to buy the locally produced textile products. Students’ sustainability attitudes towards equity, economy, and environment affected their preference for locally produced textiles. Their interest in campus-sourced products was mainly driven by their personal connection with the university.

This research used end-of-use cotton apparel to develop mulch mats, a type of agrotextiles. The researchers collected and sorted end-of-use garments to obtain cotton textile waste. These end-of-use garments were deconstructed to obtain shredded textiles and big pieces of textiles. Using the textiles from deconstructed end-of-use garments, together with a small amount of new cotton fibers, the researchers used a Feltloom to develop needle-punched nonwoven fabrics that can be used as mulch mats. The researchers tested textile properties of these mulch mats and conducted agricultural field tests for weed control and pot tests for biodegradation. The researchers also tested the mulch mats’ soil moisture infiltration, and impact on water evaporation. The nonwoven mulch mats made from end-of-use garments have excellent weed inhibition capability and biodegradability. Compared to plastic mulch sheet, the nonwoven mulch mats are better for water utilization in rainfall watering and sprinkle irrigation but poorer in water conservation in drip irrigation. Considering durability, biodegradability, and soil temperature regulation, it is recommended to use 100% cotton and felt four times to produce mulch mats from end-of-use garments.

The researchers documented the sustainability characteristics of a cotton apparel supply chain in South Africa. In-depth interviews were conducted across the entire supply chain from cotton farmers to a retailer. McDonough and Braungart’s triple top line model was applied for identifying the three pillars of sustainability, that is, economy, equity, and ecology, and how these pillars influenced and impacted each other. Across the supply chain economic factors were the drivers for adoption of sustainable practices, and the ecology dimension was the weakest pillar. This suggested leveraging economic support within the supply chain would ultimately influence the sustainability of the supply chain as a whole. To develop a sustainable apparel supply chain in South Africa, it is recommended the economic challenges be identified and addressed to free up savings that can be invested in sustainable practices and to improve collaboration across the supply chain to add value to sustainable practices.