Sallow and/or dull skin appearance is greatly attributable to the yellow components of skin tone. Bilirubin is a yellow chromophore known to be made in the liver and/or spleen and is transported throughout the body via the blood stream. Recent publications suggest bilirubin may be synthesized in other cells/organs, including the skin. We found human keratinocytes express the transcripts involved in bilirubin biosynthesis. In parallel, we also found human keratinocytes could indeed synthesize bilirubin in monolayer keratinocytes and in a 3D human skin-equivalent model. The synthesized amount was substantial enough to contribute to skin yellowness. In addition, oxidative stress enhanced bilirubin production. Using UnaG, a protein that forms a fluorescent species upon binding to bilirubin, we also visualized the intracellular expression of bilirubin in keratinocytes. Finally, we screened a compound library and discovered that the sucrose laurate/dilaurate (SDL) combination significantly reduced bilirubin levels, as well as bilirubin-mediated yellowness. In conclusion, bilirubin is indeed synthesized in epidermal keratinocytes and can be upregulated by oxidative stress, which could contribute to chronic or transient yellow skin tone appearance. Application of SDL diminishes bilirubin generation and may be a potential solution to mitigate yellowish and/or dull skin appearance.

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores “(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one” (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF, Pitera™) is a cosmetic ingredient known to have multiple skin care benefits, such as reducing redness and pore size via the topical application of its moisturizer form. Although GFF is known to act partly as an antioxidative agonist for the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), its significance in keratinocyte biology is not fully understood. In this study, we conducted a transcriptomic analysis of GFF-treated human keratinocytes. Three different lots of GFF consistently modulated 99 (22 upregulated and 77 downregulated) genes, including upregulating cytochrome P450 1A1 (CYP1A1), a specific downstream gene for AHR activation. GFF also enhanced the expression of epidermal differentiation/barrier-related genes, such as small proline-rich proteins 1A and 1B (SPRR1A and SPRR1B), as well as wound healing-related genes such as serpin B2 (SERPINB2). Genes encoding components of tight junctions claudin-1 (CLDN1) and claudin-4 (CLDN4) were also target genes upregulated in the GFF-treated keratinocytes. In contrast, the three lots of GFF consistently downregulated the expression of inflammation-related genes such as chemokine (C-X-C motif) ligand 14 (CXCL14) and interleukin-6 receptor (IL6R). These results highlight the beneficial properties of GFF in maintaining keratinocyte homeostasis.

Para-hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) is one of the most abundant naturally occurring hydroxycinnamic acids, a class of chemistries known for their antioxidant properties. In this study, we evaluated the impact of pHCA on different parameters of skin aging in in vitro skin models after H₂O₂ and UV exposure. These parameters include keratinocyte senescence and differentiation, inflammation, and energy metabolism, as well as the underlying molecular mechanisms. Here we demonstrate that pHCA prevents oxidative stress-induced premature senescence of human primary keratinocytes in both 2D and 3D skin models, while improving clonogenicity in 2D. As aging is linked to inflammation, referred to as inflammaging, we analyzed the release of IL-6, IL-8, and PGE₂, known to be associated with senescence. All of them were downregulated by pHCA in both normal and oxidative stress conditions. Mechanistically, DNA damage induced by oxidative stress is prevented by pHCA, while pHCA also exerts a positive effect on the mitochondrial and glycolytic functions under stress. Altogether, these results highlight the protective effects of pHCA against inflammaging, and importantly, help to elucidate its potential mechanisms of action.

The occurrence and impact of cellular senescence on skin aging and hyperpigmentation is an ongoing area of exploration, encompassing both intrinsic and extrinsic stressors. Traditionally, research has focused on melanocyte and fibroblast senescence due to their slower turnover compared to keratinocytes. In this study, we identified the accumulation of p16, a senescence marker, in keratinocytes from biopsies of multiple spot types. We explored their impact using doxorubicin-induced senescent keratinocytes in vitro. Conditioned media from these senescent keratinocytes stimulated melanocyte dendricity, a hallmark of hyperpigmented spots. Transcriptomic analysis of senescent keratinocytes identified two key senescence-induced factors: Insulin-like Growth Factor-Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) and Nerve Growth Factor (NGF). IGFBP3 and NGF ligand treatment enhanced melanin synthesis by 33% and 17%, and dendricity by 23% and 14%, respectively, in human melanocyte cultures. These findings suggest that keratinocyte senescence contributes to spot formation by mediating melanocyte activation through IGFBP3 and NGF. Furthermore, we evaluated skincare ingredients such as sucrose dilaurate, glabridin, and niacinamide in neutral and low pH solutions, demonstrating their efficacy in reducing the secretion of these ligands, thereby offering potential cosmetic benefits. This study provides insights into the mechanisms of spot formation and highlights promising strategies for managing pigmentation disorders.

Daily exposure of skin to environmental stressors leads to molecular and morphological changes ascribed as premature aging. These stressors include solar radiation, industrial pollution, fossil fuel and carbon emissions, which cause cellular damage that induces an inflammatory response in skin. Several inflammatory components are known to be involved in triggering the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) which is known to accelerate aging. It is hypothesized that preventing induction of inflammation by environmental stressors can prevent premature aging. Since it is known that nicotinamide (Nam) has anti-inflammatory properties, we tested whether Nam can inhibit environmental stressor-induced inflammation. Exposure of keratinocytes to UVB, urban dust, diesel exhaust, and cigarette smoke extract stimulated production of the inflammatory mediators PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 and induced gene expression patterns associated with apoptosis, DNA repair, and cell cycle control. In all cases, Nam treatment significantly inhibited these stress-induced responses. Nam also reduced IL-8 levels stimulated by the combination of topically applied particulate matter (PM2.5) and UV exposure in 3D skin equivalents. Under 5% 02 conditions that more closely mimic physiological 02 levels, Nam had a heightened inhibitory effect on UVB-induced PGE2 levels in keratinocytes. In a UV-challenge study, treatment with Nam reduced skin surface IL-1RA/IL-1 inflammatory biomarkers and erythema that were induced by solar simulated radiation. These findings provide a body of evidence that Nam can mitigate in part the skin’s inflammatory response elicited by exposure to environmental stressors. This supports the potential that Nam can inhibit premature aging and help maintain skin’s functionality and appearance.