Sallow and/or dull skin appearance is greatly attributable to the yellow components of skin tone. Bilirubin is a yellow chromophore known to be made in the liver and/or spleen and is transported throughout the body via the blood stream. Recent publications suggest bilirubin may be synthesized in other cells/organs, including the skin. We found human keratinocytes express the transcripts involved in bilirubin biosynthesis. In parallel, we also found human keratinocytes could indeed synthesize bilirubin in monolayer keratinocytes and in a 3D human skin-equivalent model. The synthesized amount was substantial enough to contribute to skin yellowness. In addition, oxidative stress enhanced bilirubin production. Using UnaG, a protein that forms a fluorescent species upon binding to bilirubin, we also visualized the intracellular expression of bilirubin in keratinocytes. Finally, we screened a compound library and discovered that the sucrose laurate/dilaurate (SDL) combination significantly reduced bilirubin levels, as well as bilirubin-mediated yellowness. In conclusion, bilirubin is indeed synthesized in epidermal keratinocytes and can be upregulated by oxidative stress, which could contribute to chronic or transient yellow skin tone appearance. Application of SDL diminishes bilirubin generation and may be a potential solution to mitigate yellowish and/or dull skin appearance.

Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF, Pitera™) is a cosmetic ingredient known to have multiple skin care benefits, such as reducing redness and pore size via the topical application of its moisturizer form. Although GFF is known to act partly as an antioxidative agonist for the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), its significance in keratinocyte biology is not fully understood. In this study, we conducted a transcriptomic analysis of GFF-treated human keratinocytes. Three different lots of GFF consistently modulated 99 (22 upregulated and 77 downregulated) genes, including upregulating cytochrome P450 1A1 (CYP1A1), a specific downstream gene for AHR activation. GFF also enhanced the expression of epidermal differentiation/barrier-related genes, such as small proline-rich proteins 1A and 1B (SPRR1A and SPRR1B), as well as wound healing-related genes such as serpin B2 (SERPINB2). Genes encoding components of tight junctions claudin-1 (CLDN1) and claudin-4 (CLDN4) were also target genes upregulated in the GFF-treated keratinocytes. In contrast, the three lots of GFF consistently downregulated the expression of inflammation-related genes such as chemokine (C-X-C motif) ligand 14 (CXCL14) and interleukin-6 receptor (IL6R). These results highlight the beneficial properties of GFF in maintaining keratinocyte homeostasis.

The occurrence and impact of cellular senescence on skin aging and hyperpigmentation is an ongoing area of exploration, encompassing both intrinsic and extrinsic stressors. Traditionally, research has focused on melanocyte and fibroblast senescence due to their slower turnover compared to keratinocytes. In this study, we identified the accumulation of p16, a senescence marker, in keratinocytes from biopsies of multiple spot types. We explored their impact using doxorubicin-induced senescent keratinocytes in vitro. Conditioned media from these senescent keratinocytes stimulated melanocyte dendricity, a hallmark of hyperpigmented spots. Transcriptomic analysis of senescent keratinocytes identified two key senescence-induced factors: Insulin-like Growth Factor-Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) and Nerve Growth Factor (NGF). IGFBP3 and NGF ligand treatment enhanced melanin synthesis by 33% and 17%, and dendricity by 23% and 14%, respectively, in human melanocyte cultures. These findings suggest that keratinocyte senescence contributes to spot formation by mediating melanocyte activation through IGFBP3 and NGF. Furthermore, we evaluated skincare ingredients such as sucrose dilaurate, glabridin, and niacinamide in neutral and low pH solutions, demonstrating their efficacy in reducing the secretion of these ligands, thereby offering potential cosmetic benefits. This study provides insights into the mechanisms of spot formation and highlights promising strategies for managing pigmentation disorders.

Dullness or lack of radiance in facial appearance is a common concern among females. Previous studies have linked skin dullness to aging and revealed alterations in skin pigments. However, younger individuals (ages ≤ 35) also report concerns about dull skin in their hectic daily lives, which may not involve pigmentation changes. We hypothesized that the mechanisms underlying dullness in youth differ from those associated with aging. To investigate this, we measured cellular and molecular changes in 132 healthy Japanese and Chinese females aged 18 to 35 using biophotonic multiphoton tomography and biochemical tape-strip analysis. Our findings revealed that dull skin exhibited a thicker stratum granulosum and less densely packed keratinocytes in deeper layers. Biochemical analysis showed upregulation of interleukin-36γ and downregulation of E-cadherin in dull skin, with interleukin-36γ levels negatively correlating (p = 0.023) with metabolites of filaggrin. These alterations resemble those observed in inflammatory skin conditions, suggesting an additional mechanism of skin dullness beyond pigmentation. In vitro cultured cell models evaluated the efficacy of three skincare ingredients: galactomyces fermentation filtrate, bisabolol, and batyl alcohol. Galactomyces suppressed interleukin-36γ (p = 0.037), while both batyl alcohol (p = 0.006) and bisabolol (p = 0.049) showed beneficial effects on filaggrin. Targeting these biomarkers may improve the appearance of dull skin.