Woven fabrics generally have high strength but only limited stretch. This lack of stretch can be overcome by incorporating elastane fibers into the fabric structure. These stretch woven fabrics offer an interesting potential for tight-fitting garments. However, the presence of the elastane fibers may lower the strength of the fabrics. To expand the knowledge on the mechanical behavior of stretch woven fabrics, this study investigated eight commercial fabrics with elastane fiber content between 5 and 51%. Four fabrics were polyester-based and the other four were polyamide-based. The effect of the fabric weight and elastane fiber content on the grab strength, tear strength, and unrecovered stretch was analyzed. It was observed that, at very high elastane fiber content, the load–extension curve was typical to that of an elastane fiber, while the traditional load–extension behavior of woven fabrics with low to average stretch was obtained at lower elastane fiber contents. For the polyester-based fabrics, the grab strength and tear strength generally increased with fabric weight and decreased with elastane fiber content. For the polyamide-based fabrics, a higher elastane fiber content led to a decrease in grab strength, tear strength, and unrecovered stretch. A reduction in tear strength was observed at higher fabric weight.

Individuals with atypical breast shape/size often find it quite challenging to obtain a comfortable, supportive, and fitted bra off-the-shelf. They include people with very large breasts, who have significant breast asymmetry, and/or have undergone mastectomy or mammoplasty. This paper provides insights in their challenges and attempts to fill the gap in terms of critical review of the current state of knowledge around the topic of bras. Poor and ill fitted bras are associated with breast, chest and shoulder pain, embarrassment, and an overall reduction in quality of life among others. Building upon the advantages and limitations of solutions to improve the fit, support and comfort of bras found in the literature, this paper proposes strategies to solve these challenges. As the problem is multidisciplinary, a human-centered interdisciplinary approach is key to ensure that all aspects are considered at all stages of the process. A modular design allows selecting the fabric characteristics based on the requirements of each bra part. In terms of materials, stretch woven fabrics offer a large potential in the production of bras to enhance the support provided by areas such as the under band and back panels. Bespoke manufacturing takes into account the specificities of each individual. The road map proposed here will contribute to enhance the quality of life of individuals with atypical breast shape/size.

Purpose: This paper aims to identify the role female body shape plays in clothing size and fit, as well as its impact on comfort and safety. Design/methodology/approach: Existing issues and complaints from female clothing consumers reported within the literature were explored. Documented experiences provided justification to demystify the notion made by manufactures who market clothing for the hourglass body. Findings: Clothing manufacturers continue to underestimate the impact of the female body in clothing design and construction. Manufacturers market the unrealistic notion of the hourglass body which often leads to wrong sizing and ill-fit. This might be responsible for the continued dissatisfaction experienced by female clothing consumers with more severe consequences in functional clothing compared to everyday clothing. For functional clothing (e.g. firefighter protective clothing), the implication could be life threating. Originality/value: This review provides another perspective on the implication of the female body clothing design and production depending on the end-use: everyday versus functional clothing. In this study, the impact of the female body on clothing design and construction are discussed.

The self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) is an integral part of the structural firefighting personal protective equipment (PPE) ensemble. However, when donned, it adds significant weight and restriction, interfering with the fit of the turnout suit and the ventilation within the clothing system. This may result in a reduction of air gaps within the clothing microclimate, quickening the onset of heat strain. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to assess the impact of the SCBA on air gaps in structural firefighting turnout suits. Nine active-duty male firefighter participants were scanned in a three-dimensional body scanner in four garment configurations (compression, base layers, turnout suit, and turnout with SCBA). Torso volume, surface area, and air gaps were calculated alongside ease measurements. Findings demonstrated a 59% increase in torso volume when donning the turnout suit over base layers compared to a 1.2% reduction in torso volume when donning the SCBA. The change in torso air gap volume and distance were also found to be negligible when donning the SCBA. This study lays the foundation for full systems ensemble research needed to better understand how the design, weight, and fit of the SCBA impacts the thermal comfort, mobility, and protection of structural firefighters.

Traditional firefighting protective clothing materials, such as meta- and para-aramid fibers, provide significant thermal protection but often fail to adequately manage heat stress and moisture, especially due to the incorporation of semi-permeable membranes within the three-layer garment structure known as turnout gear. Integrating hydrogels into textiles for firefighting personal protective clothing (PPC) could enhance thermoregulation and moisture management, providing firefighters with improved comfort and safety. Hydrogels are three-dimensional, hydrophilic polymer networks capable of holding substantial amounts of water. Their high water content and excellent thermal properties make them ideal for cooling applications. Therefore, this review focuses on the potential of hydrogel-infused textiles to improve firefighters’ PPC by enhancing thermal comfort and moisture management. Specifically, hydrogel structures and engineered properties for enhanced performance are presented, including smart hydrogels and hydration customization mechanisms. Hydrogel integration into firefighting PPC for moisture management and improved thermoregulation is explored, including current and future market projections and state-of-the-art clinical trial findings. Overall, the future of hydrogel-integrated textiles for firefighting PPC is bright, with numerous advancements and trends poised to enhance the safety, comfort, and performance of protective gear.