Although natural fibers used to be colored with natural dyes, today they have been replaced by chemical dyes and our cultural values have been abandoned. Metal salts harm both the nature and the human beings more than synthetic dyes do. This study examines the effects of both natural and chemical mordants on dyeing as well as the use of natural dye obtained from Sambucus Ebulus L. plant for dyeing Hemp fabric. In this study 100% hemp fabric was dyed with 15 different concentrations of 3 different mordant substances one of which was natural. Lightfastness and washing features of dyed hemp samples were done then color differences and color efficiency calculated by CIE L*a*b color space system were compared. For the optimization of dyeing parameters Grey Relational Analysis (GRA) method was used. Being one of the multi-criteria decision-making methods, GRA is the alternative and the most effective approach that can be employed in case of insufficient or discrete information, too much data, and vagueness. Experimental results show that the use of the natural mordant in dyeing the hemp fabric with Sambucus Ebulus L. plant gives better results in terms of color difference and color efficiency.

The recent pandemic scenario has caused demand for green products that have medicinal aspects, as well as greener approaches for global health. Natural dye from plants, particularly from harmal seeds, is an excellent alternative to carcinogenic yellow synthetic dyes. The current study has been conducted to isolate natural colorants from harmal seeds in methanolic medium through Gamma-Assisted Extraction (GAE). The dyeing variables that are necessary for shade development before and after mordanting were selected. It has been found that 6 kGy is the optimal absorbed dose for extraction of colorant from 6 g of powder to isolate the colorant in the methanolic medium through the Gamma-irradiated extraction mode (GAE). To get excellent results, 30 mL of methanolic extract containing 6 g/100 mL of Glauber salt was sued for dyeing of irradiated wool at 45 °C for 65 min. For improving the color strength and acceptable rating of fastness, 9% of henna, 3% of acacia, 10% of turmeric, and 7% of pomegranate extracts as pre-bio-mordants as well as 7% of acacia, 3% of pomegranate, 9% of henna, and 10% of turmeric extracts as post-mordants have given high results compared to when chemical mordants have been used. It was concluded that Gamma-ray treatment has excellent color strength in the dyeing of bio-mordanted wool using harmal seed extracts under mild conditions, and has good fastness ratings after using chemical and bio-mordanting methods as well.

While the coloring of textiles was done with natural dyes in history, today it has been completely replaced by chemical dyes and our cultural values have begun to be abandoned. For this reason, various studies are carried out in order to revitalize natural dyeing and to increase its preference. Turkey's flora is rich in terms of plant diversity, thus it makes it easier to facilitate studies related to natural dyeing. We can count the olive tree that has an important place in this diversity and it grows in many regions of our country. In this research, the usability of the natural dye obtained from the leaves of the olive tree, which is very widespread in the world, in cotton fabrics woven with handmade yarns was investigated. In this study, Eflani fabric, woven from 100% cotton yarn with olive leaves, was dyed with a total of 3 different mordant materials of 5 different concentrations. The light and wash fastnesses of the dyed samples were made and the color differences and color efficiencies were calculated and compared using the CIE L * a * b color space system. Grey Relational Analysis (GRA) Method was used for the optimization of dyeing parameters. GRA, which is one of the multi-criteria decision making methods, is an effective method that can be used in situations where there are more or less information and multiple criteria and decision making are complex. There are a total of 9 criteria to decide on the best dyeing together with the fading and staining process obtained from washing damage and with the fading value obtained from lightfastness and color yield. Thanks to the GRA method applied, the evaluation made according to 9 criteria gives us the optimum result. In this experimental study, the effects of 3 different mordant substances and mixtures used in dyeing cotton fabric with olive leaves on color difference and color efficiency were investigated, and it showed that the dyeing with citric acid mordant and using 10% mordant, which is the highest concentration, gave the best fastness values.

The textile industry is one of the most complex sectors, in terms of the materials and chemical processes used from petroleum and the environmental degradation during its production and disposal. It is therefore a sector looking for new possibilities and for more sustainable materials and applications. One option is to use natural dyes, as they are considered biodegradable, do not pollute the environment, and have potential use for many sectors, including the fashion industry. In this study, Alanya silk was dyed by a natural dyeing method with crocus sativus, Helichrysum arenarium, and Glycyrrhiza glabra L., plants that grow in and around the Alanya region. Quercus aegilops L. grown in the region was preferred as mordant, a natural binder, and is one of the plants with the highest tannin content, and it was used with a more environmentally friendly and sustainable approach to increase the binding in natural dyeing instead of chemical mordants. The aim is to provide an environmental and scientific contribution to the dyeing producers in this region. According to the MAUT (Multi-Attribute Utility Theory) method, the best dyes in terms of fastness and color efficiency were determined as the dyes made with the Glycyrrhiza glabra L. plant.

This study aimed to assess the effectiveness of utilizing a tannin-based natural brown colorant from neem bark for dyeing wool under microwave treatment, specifically evaluating its coloring efficiency. The colorant was extracted in a methanol solution that had been acidified both before and after being subjected to microwave treatment for up to 6 min. The dyeing variables were optimized to create new shades of dye with desirable fastness properties, and sustainable chemical and bio-mordants ranging from 1 to 10 g/100 mL were employed. Through experimentation, it was determined that when an unirradiated acidic methanolic extract (AME) with a salt concentration of 3 g/100 mL was applied onto wool fabric (RWF) and subjected to microwave treatment for 4 min, it resulted in a high color yield. This was achieved by heating the solution to 65 °C and allowing it to remain in contact with the fabric for a duration of 65 min. Favorable color characteristics were achieved when utilizing a pre-chemical mordant of 5% Fe and a post-chemical mordant of 5% Fe. In contrast, the utilization of 7% henna as a pre-bio-mordant in combination with 3% turmeric extract as a meta-bio-mordant resulted in favorable color characteristics. The study concludes that microwave treatment exhibits outstanding sustainable efficacy in isolating colorants from neem bark powder for wool dyeing. Incorporating bio-mordants further enhanced the process’s sustainability and eco-friendliness.

The utilization of plant isolates as dyes in applied fields has gained considerable interest due to growing environmental concerns associated with the toxic synthetic dyes. In the present work, the agro-waste (such as grape leaves) has been valorized as a rich source of flavonoid-based natural dye for sustainable dyeing of woolen yarn. Microwave irradiation was further applied to dye molecules and wool yarn to enhance the dye uptake and process efficiency. Processing parameters for dyeing were optimized using Box–Behnken as a statistical design, and the results of the analysis revealed that the processing parameters, including temperature (80 °C), time (25 min), pH 5, and salt concentration (3 g/100 mL), significantly influence the color strength. The microwave irradiation of both flavonoid-based grape leaf extract and yarns up to 4 min, followed by dyeing, has given improved color yield up to a K/S value of 5.38. Metal mordants and bio-mordants were analyzed to improve dye fixation and sustainability. The pretreatment of yarn with Fe²⁺-salt, post-treatment with Al³⁺-salt, and addition of tannic acid during the dyeing process improved the color strength and dye fixation. Furthermore, the addition of red sumac extract during the dyeing of yarns and the pretreatment of yarn with myrobalan as bio-mordants increased the color depth. The colorfastness rating shows that mordanting has improved color stability and has offered maximum resistance to color fading. It is concluded that agro-waste valorization, statistical modeling coupled with radiation treatment, has not only added value in process optimization but also mordanting in the coloring of yarn with grape leaf extract has valorized the green dyeing.