Panax notoginseng (Burk) F. H. Chen is a traditional Chinese medicinal and edible plant. However, Panax notoginseng flower (PNF) is rarely used. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to explore the main saponins and the anti-inflammatory bioactivity of PNF saponins (PNFS). We explored the regulation of cyclooxygenase 2 (COX–2), a key mediator of inflammatory pathways, in human keratinocyte cells treated with PNFS. A cell model of UVB-irradiation-induced inflammation was established to determine the influence of PNFS on inflammatory factors and their relationship with LL–37 expression. An enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay and Western blotting analysis were used to detect the production of inflammatory factors and LL37. Finally, liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry was employed to quantify the main active components (ginsenosides Rb1, Rb2, Rb3, Rc, Rd, Re, Rg1, and notoginsenoside R1) in PNF. The results show that PNFS substantially inhibited COX–2 activity and downregulated the production of inflammatory factors, indicating that they can be used to reduce skin inflammation. PNFS also increased the expression of LL-37. The contents of ginsenosides Rb1, Rb2, Rb3, Rc, and Rd in PNF were much higher than those of Rg1, and notoginsenoside R1. This paper provides data in support of the application of PNF in cosmetics.

Leontopodium alpinum is an important source of raw material for food, medicine, and modern cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to develop a new application for protection against blue light damage. To investigate the effects and mechanism of action of Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract (LACCE) on blue light damage, a blue-light-induced human foreskin fibroblast damage model was established. The contents of collagen (COL-I), matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), and opsin 3 (OPN3) were detected using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays and Western blotting. The calcium influx and reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels were measured via flow cytometry and the results showed that the LACCE (10–15 mg/mL) promoted the production of COL-I, inhibited the secretion of MMP-1, OPN3, ROS and calcium influx, and may play a role in inhibiting the activation of blue light on the OPN3-calcium pathway. Thereafter, high-performance liquid chromatography and ultra-performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry were used to quantitatively analyze the contents of nine active ingredients in the LACCE. The results indicated that LACCE has an anti-blue-light-damage effect and provides theoretical support for the development of new raw materials in the natural food, medicine, and skin care industries.

Leontopodium alpinum is a source of raw material for food additives and skin health. The purpose of this study was to investigate the application of Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract (LACCE) to prevent blue light damage to the skin. We screened and identified the blue light-damage-protecting activities and mechanisms of ten components of LACCE, including chlorogenic acid (A), isoquercitrin (B), isochlorogenic acid A (C), cynaroside (D), syringin (E), isochlorogenic acid (F), cynarin (G), rutin (H), leontopodic acid A (I), and leontopodic acid B (J), using a novel blue light-induced human foreskin fibroblast (HFF-1) cell injury model. The study examined the cytotoxicity of ten ingredients using the cell counting kit-8 (CCK-8) assay, and selecting concentrations of 5, 10, and 20 μM for experiments with a cell viability above 65%. We explored the effects and mechanisms of action of these LACCE components in response to blue light injury using Western blotting and an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. We also measured ROS secretion and Ca²⁺ influx. Our study revealed that leontopodic acid A effectively boosted COI-1 expression, hindered MMP-1 expression, curbed ROS and Ca²⁺ endocytosis, and reduced OPN3 expression. These results provide theoretical support for the development of new raw materials for the pharmaceutical and skincare industries.