Marine algae have received great attention as natural photoprotective agents due to their unique and exclusive bioactive substances which have been acquired as an adaptation to the extreme marine environment combine with a range of physical parameters. These photoprotective substances include mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), sulfated polysaccharides, carotenoids, and polyphenols. Marine algal photoprotective substances exhibit a wide range of biological activities such as ultraviolet (UV) absorbing, antioxidant, matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors, anti-aging, and immunomodulatory activities. Hence, such unique bioactive substances derived from marine algae have been regarded as having potential for use in skin care, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products. In this context, this contribution aims at revealing bioactive substances found in marine algae, outlines their photoprotective potential, and provides an overview of developments of blue biotechnology to obtain photoprotective substances and their prospective applications.

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Cosmeceutical, a new term in the cosmetic industry, refers to cosmetic products that contain active ingredients and have medicinal benefits. Cosmeceuticals have attracted increased attention because of their beneficial effects on human health. Sea cucumbers, belonging to the class Holothuroidea, marine invertebrates, are rich in bioactive compounds, including saponin, chondroitin sulphate, collagen, amino acids, and phenols. These bioactive compounds have diverse functional roles as a secondary metabolite and these properties can be applied to the developments of novel cosmeceuticals. This review provides an overview the application of sea cucumber derivatives for cosmeceuticals. Further, prospects and trends of sea cucumber in cosmeceuticals industry were also discussed. The proper development of sea cucumber bioactive compounds will be helpful in cosmeceutical product development and industry.

Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences

Holothuria scabra is one of the commercial sea cucumber species harvested in Indonesia. The objective of this study is to analyze nutritional value and heavy metals content of H. scabra collected from 4 different locations, Bungin Island (West Nusa Tenggara), Belitung Island, Lampung, and Makassar. Proximate composition, mineral, and heavy metal were analyzed by the AOAC standard method. Amino acid profiles were analyzed by UPLC, fatty acid contents were determined by GC, and vitamin were detected by HPLC. The results show that all H. scabra from different locations have high protein and low fat content. Protein content in H. scabra from Bungin Island showed the highest percentage with 6.95%. Vitamins (A, B1, and B12) and heavy metals examined in this study were not detected, while vitamin B2 from Belitung, Makassar and Lampung were 0.06 mg/100 g, 0.06 mg/100 g, and 0.04 mg/100 g respectively and vitamin E from Bungin and Belitung were 0.18 mg/100g and 0.35 mg/100g. The calcium content was higher than other minerals followed by sodium. Total 18 amino acids were identified where glycine was the major constituent (5798.80–16789.18) mg/kg). In the case of fatty acids, omega-6 from Bungin Island and Makassar were the major constituent with 0.1834 % and 0.1377 %. Meanwhile, omega-9 from Belitung Island and Lampung were the major constituent with 0.2466 % and 0.1773 %. Therefore, it could be inferred that the sea cucumber H. scabra from all sampling locations is safely to consume and could be utilized as a source of functional food in the future.