Rip currents are the strong narrow seaward current produced by waves breaking on the coast. Of the many types of rip currents, the present study investigates, experimentally and numerically, the rip current system produced by the wave reflection on a finite-length shore-normal structure (corresponding to groin, jetty and headland in a real-word environment) with strong wave reflection strength. The incident wave condition of an obliquely propagating monochromatic surface gravity wave is considered for the bottom topographies of planar and barred beaches without or with a rip channel. The corresponding laboratory experiment was conducted and used to validate the numerical model. A set of higher order Boussinesq equations is used to reproduce the experimental observation and produce the results for the related prototype cases, with the latter considering more factors which may influence the formation and evolution of rip current flow patterns. The resulting rip current system contains two parts: the node rips formed due to the presence of the longshore standing wave in the wave reflection field and the deflection rip formed due to the interaction between the incoming longshore current and the reflection wave field mentioned above. A new formation mechanism of the deflection rip has been proposed, i.e., the deflection rip is formed by the meeting and then deflection of the longshore current and lateral flow. The effects of different wave reflection strengths of the structure, wave incident angles and bathymetric conditions on the pattern and flow volume of the deflection rip are also studied.

This paper presents a depth-integrated, non-hydrostatic model for coastal water waves. The shock-capturing ability of this model is its most attractive aspect and is essential for computation of energetic breaking waves and wet–dry fronts. The model is solved in a fraction step manner, where the total pressure is decomposed into hydrostatic and non-hydrostatic parts. The hydrostatic pressure component is integrated explicitly in the framework of the finite volume method, whereas most of the existing models use the finite difference method. The fluxes across the cell faces are computed in a Godunov-based manner through an efficient multi-stage scheme. The flow variables are reconstructed at each cell face to obtain second-order spatial accuracy. Wave breaking is treated as a shock by locally switching off the non-hydrostatic pressure in the wave front. A moving shoreline boundary is also incorporated. The robustness and accuracy of the developed model are demonstrated through numerical tests.

The accurate determination of cross-shore longshore current profiles in the surf zone is essentially important in understanding of coastal physical processes and modelling of longshore sediment transport. In this study, a comprehensive laboratory study was undertaken to directly measure longshore current profiles over plane beaches with two mild slopes, 1:40 and 1:100, in a wave basin 55 m long, 34 m wide, and 0.7 m deep. Different wave conditions with an incidence angle of 30° were generated by piston-type wave makers consisting of 70 individual paddles, and two arrays of 29 Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) were used to measure longshore currents in the surf zone. Based on the experimental data collected in this study, three types of cross-shore longshore current profiles were found on the two plane beaches under different testing wave conditions, namely quasi-Rayleigh, quasi-Gaussian, and M-shape profiles. The quasi-Rayleigh profile was found on the beach slope of 1:40, and the other two types were found on the beach slope of 1:100. Analytical formulae were proposed to describe these profiles and agreed well with the laboratory data. The fluctuations of longshore currents observed in this study were attributed to their shear instabilities based on linear instability analysis. The results of the linear instability analysis and the spectra of measured velocities also showed that the three types of velocity profiles led to different instability characteristics.