Rip currents are fast offshore currents generated during the breaking process of waves propagating nearshore, posing a potential life safety threat to coastal bathers. This study utilizes a Boussinesq phase-resolving model to investigate the formation mechanism of rip currents at Dadonghai Beach, based on its actual topography, and explores the characteristics of rip current formation under various wave conditions, with an emphasis on analyzing vortices, the mean water level and the spatial distribution of average velocity. The results indicate that rip current formation is significantly influenced by wave height and period. The increase in wave height and period results in more intense rip currents and higher water level fluctuations on arc-shaped beaches and on both sides of the bay, leading to complex vortex distributions. An increase in the angle of wave incidence hinders rip current formation in arc-shaped beach areas but is favorable to the generation of deflection rips on both sides of the bay. Furthermore, an increase in bottom friction inhibits rip current formation. When the water depth decreases in the channels, rip currents transition into longshore currents. The findings of this research offer valuable scientific insights into the formation mechanisms of rip currents and contribute to their prediction and prevention.

Rip currents pose a common natural hazard at coastal tourist beaches, presenting a significant threat to the safety of beachgoers and beach management. To better understand the characteristics of rip currents, particularly those induced by irregular waves on a barred beach, this study utilized a Boussinesq-type, phase-resolving hydrodynamic model for numerical simulations. We investigated various factors, including significant wave height, peak period, incident angle, and bottom friction, to assess their impact on rip currents formation. The results of our research reveal some key insights. Firstly, an increase in significant wave height and peak period fosters the development of rip currents. However, beyond a certain threshold, the intensity of the rip currents decreases. Conversely, a larger incident angle tends to reduce the intensity of rip currents. Additionally, higher bottom friction leads to increased energy dissipation during wave propagation, consequently resulting in decreased rip currents intensity. In an effort to create a more precise representation of real sea conditions, multi-directional waves were employed as incident waves in this study. An analysis of different standard deviations of directional distributions revealed that as the directional spread of incident waves widens, the waves become more susceptible to breaking, ultimately leading to a reduction in the intensity of rip currents.