The spatial and temporal variability of extreme wave climate in the North Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea is assessed using a 31-year wave model hindcast. Seasonality accounts for 50 % of the extreme wave height variability in the North Atlantic Ocean and up to 70 % in some areas of the Mediterranean Sea. Once seasonality is filtered out, the North Atlantic Oscillation and the Scandinavian index are the dominant large-scale atmospheric patterns that control the interannual variability of extreme waves during winters in the North Atlantic Ocean; to a lesser extent, the East Atlantic Oscillation also modulates extreme waves in the central part of the basin. In the Mediterranean Sea, the dominant modes are the East Atlantic and East Atlantic–Western Russia modes, which act strongly during their negative phases. A new methodology for analyzing the atmospheric signature associated with extreme waves is proposed. The method obtains the composites of significant wave height (SWH), mean sea level pressure (MSLP), and 10 m height wind velocity (U₁₀) using the instant when specific climatic indices have a stronger correlation with extreme waves.

The morphodynamic response of a microtidal beach under a storm group is analyzed, and the effects of each individual event are inferred from a numerical model, in situ measurements and video imaging. The combination of these approaches represents a multiplatform tool for beach management, especially during adverse conditions. Here, the morphodynamic response is examined during a period with a group of three storms. The first storm, with moderate conditions ( H _s ∼1 m during 6 h), eroded the aerial beach and generated a submerged sandbar in the breaking zone. The bar was further directed offshore during the more energetic second event ( H _s =3.5 m and 53 h). The third storm, similar to the first one, hardly affected the beach morphology, which stresses the importance of the beach configuration previous to a storm. The volume of sand mobilized during the storm group is around 17.65 m ³ m ⁻¹ . During the following months, which are characterized by mild wave conditions, the aerial beach recovered half of the volume of sand that is transported offshore during the storm group (∼9.27m3m-1). The analysis of beach evolution shows two different characteristic timescales for the erosion and recovery processes associated with the storm and mild conditions, respectively. In addition, the response depends largely on the previous beach morphological state. The work also stresses the importance of using different tools (video monitoring, modeling, and field campaign) to analyze beach morphodynamics.

Effects of wind and waves on the surface dynamics of the Mediterranean Sea are assessed using a modified Ekman model including a Stokes‐Coriolis force in the momentum equation. Using 25 years of observations, we documented intermittent but recurrent episodes during which Ekman and Stokes currents substantially modulate the total mesoscale dynamics by two nonexclusive mechanisms: (a) by providing a vigorous input of momentum (e.g., where regional winds are stronger) and/or (b) by opposing forces to the main direction of the geostrophic component. To properly characterize the occurrence and variability of these dynamical regimes, we perform an objective classification combining self‐organizing maps and wavelet coherence analyses. It allows proposing a new regional classification of the Mediterranean Sea based on the respective contributions of wind, wave, and geostrophic components to the total mesoscale surface dynamics. We found that the effects of wind and waves are more prominent in the northwestern Mediterranean, while the southwestern and eastern basins are mainly dominated by the geostrophic component. The resulting temporal variability patterns show a strong seasonal signal and cycles of 5–6 years in the total kinetic energy arising from both geostrophic and ageostrophic components. Moreover, the whole basin, specially the regions characterized by strong wind‐ and wave‐induced currents, shows a characteristic period of variability at 5 years. This can be related to climate modes of variability. Regional trends in the geostrophic and ageostrophic currents show an intensification of 0.058 ± 1.43 · 10⁻⁵ cm/s per year.

We study the impact of the Ekman currents and Stokes drift on the surface horizontal transport and mixing properties of the Mediterranean Sea. Finite Size Lyapunov Exponents (FSLE) at the ocean surface are computed over the whole basin using 25 years of satellite altimetry derived geostrophic currents, 10‐m wind velocity and wave fields. We find that the transport pathways unveiled by the geostrophic Lagrangian Coherent Structures (LCS) are significantly modified by the ageostrophic currents (i.e., Ekman and Stokes induced velocities), often leading to a decrease of the retention capacity of the eddies. An exhaustive assessment of the regional and temporal variability of the FSLE shows an increase of the horizontal mixing processes, due to the ageostrophic component, up to 37% in regions such as the Gulf of Lion or the Aegean Sea, during the seasons where wind and waves are intense and persistent. Positive trends in the total FSLE (up to 1.2% of the value of FSLE per year in some regions) suggest that Mediterranean Sea has experienced a significant increase in the intensity of the mixing processes over the last decades. Ageostrophic features are considered to play a role in determining the properties of the relative dispersion. Through the analysis of the Lagrangian Anisotropy Index (LAI) using virtual and real pair of drifters, we observe that the particle dispersion is mainly dominated by the zonal flow, and that the ageostrophic currents induce meridional dispersion, particularly in regions where wind and wave are intensified.

The wave–current–seabed interaction problem is studied by using a coupled-mode system developed for modeling wave scattering by non-homogeneous, sheared currents in variable bathymetry regions. The model is based on a modal series expansion of wave velocity based on vertical eigenfunctions, dependent on local depth and flow parameters, including propagating and evanescent modes. The latter representation is able to accurately satisfy the wave flow continuity condition and the no-entrance boundary condition on the sloping parts of the seabed. A new derivation of a simplified nonlinear system is introduced using decomposition to a mean flow and a perturbative wave field. To force the system to consider incoming waves at the inlet, boundary knowledge of periodic, travelling nonlinear water waves over a flat bottom is required. For this purpose, specific solutions are derived using the semi-analytical method based on the stream function formulation, for cases of water waves propagating above linearly and exponentially sheared currents. Results obtained by the application of the CMS concerning the propagation of waves and currents—in particular, examples characterized by depth inhomogeneities—are presented and discussed, illustrating the applicability and performance of the method.

The morphodynamic response of a microtidal beach under a storm group is analyzed, and the effects of each individual event inferred from a numerical model, in situ measurements and video imaging. The first storm, with moderate conditions (H_s ~ 1 m during 6 h), eroded the aerial beach and generated a submerged sandbar in the breaking zone. The bar is further directed offshore during the more energetic second event (H_s = 3.5 m and 53 h). The third storm, similar to the first one, hardly affected the beach morphology, which stresses the importance of the beach configuration previous to a storm. The volume of sand mobilized during the storm group was around 17.65 m³/m. During the following months, which were characterized by mild wave conditions, the dry beach recovered half of the volume of sand that was transported offshore during the storm group (~ 9.27 m³/m). The analysis of beach evolution shows two different characteristic time scales for the erosion and the recovery processes associated with storm and mild conditions respectively. Besides, the response depends largely on the previous beach morphological state. The work also stresses the importance of using different tools (video-monitoring, modeling and field campaign) to analyze beach morphodynamics.