A climatology of wind sea and swell waves along the Canary eastern boundary current area, from west Iberia to Mauritania, is presented. The study is based on the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) reanalysis ERA-Interim. The wind regime along the Canary Current, along west Iberia and north-west Africa, varies significantly from winter to summer. High summer wind speeds generate high wind sea waves, particularly along the coasts of Morocco and Western Sahara. Lower winter wind speeds, along with stronger extratropical storms crossing the North Atlantic sub-basin up north lead to a predominance of swell waves in the area during from December to February. In summer, the coast parallel wind interacts with the coastal headlands, increasing the wind speed and the locally generated waves. The spatial patterns of the wind sea or swell regional wave fields are shown to be different from the open ocean, due to coastal geometry, fetch dimensions, and island sheltering.

A Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5)-derived single-forcing, single-model, and single-scenario dynamic wind-wave climate ensemble is presented, and its historic period (1979–2005) performance in representing the present wave climate is evaluated. A single global climate model (GCM)-forcing wave climate ensemble was produced with the goal of reducing the inter GCM variability inherent in using a multi-forcing approach for the same wave model. Seven CMIP5 EC-Earth ensemble runs were used to force seven WAM wave model realizations, while future wave climate simulations, not analyzed here, were produced using a high-emission representative concentration pathway 8.5 (RCP8.5) set-up. The wave climate ensemble’s historic period was extensively compared against a set of 72 in situ wave-height observations, as well as to ERA-Interim reanalysis and Climate Forecast System Reanalysis (CFSR) hindcast. The agreement between the wave climate ensemble and the in situ measurements and reanalysis of mean and extreme wave heights, mean wave periods, and mean wave directions was good, in line with previous studies or even better in some areas of the global ocean, namely in the extratropical latitudes. These results give a good degree of confidence in the ability of the ensemble to simulate a realistic climate change signal.

In this study, a methodology to estimate the intertidal bathymetry from multispectral remote sensing images is presented. The technique is based on the temporal variability of the water and the intertidal zone reflectance and their correlation with the tidal height. The water spectral behavior is characterized by high absorption at the infrared (IR) band or radiation with higher wavelengths. Due to tidal cycles, pixels on the intertidal zone have higher temporal variability on the near IR spectral reflectance. The variability of IR reflectivity in time is modeled through a sigmoid function of three parameters, where the inflection parameter corresponds to the pixel elevation. The methodology was tested at the Tagus river estuary in Lisbon, Portugal, and at the Bijagós archipelago, in the West African nation of Guinea-Bissau. Multispectral images from Sentinel-2 satellites were used, after atmospheric corrections from ACOLITE processor and the derived bathymetric model validated with in situ data. The presented method does not require additional depth data for calibration, and the output can generate intertidal digital elevation models at 10 m spatial resolution, without any manual editing by the operator. The results show a standard deviation of 0.34 m at the Tagus tidal zone, with −0.50 m bias, performing better than the Stumpf ratio transform algorithm, also applied to the test areas to derive intertidal bathymetry. This methodology can be used to update intertidal elevation models with clear benefits to monitoring of intertidal dynamics, morphodynamic modeling, and cartographic update.

A detailed climatology of ocean wind waves in the South Atlantic Ocean, based on ERA-5 reanalysis and in a higher-resolution wave hindcast (ERA-5H), both developed by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts, is presented. The higher resolution of the wave fields in the ERA-5H (22 km) allowed for a better description of the wind sea and swell features compared to previous global and regional studies along the Brazilian coast. Overall, it is shown that swell waves are more prevalent and carry more energy in the offshore area of the study area, while wind sea waves dominate the nearshore regions, especially along the northern coast of Brazil. The influence of different climate indices on the significant wave heights patterns is also presented, with two behavioral groups showing opposite correlations to the North Atlantic Oscillation and Southern Annular Mode than to the Southern Oscillation Index. The analysis of the decadal trends of wind sea and swell heights during the ERA-5H period (1979–2020) shows that the long-term trends of the total significant wave height in the South Atlantic Ocean are mostly due to swell events and the wave propagation effect from Southern Ocean storms.

The skills of CODAR SeaSonde coastal high-frequency radars (HFR) located in the West Iberian Peninsula on measuring wave parameters are compared to in situ (buoy) and satellite altimeters (SA) wave observations. Significant wave heights (SWH), wave periods, and wave directions are compared over a time window of 36-months, from January 2017 to December 2019. The ability of HFR systems to capture extreme wave events is also assessed by comparing SWH measurements during the Emma storm, which hit the Iberian Peninsula in March 2018. The analysis presented in this study shows a slight overestimation of the SWH by the HFR systems. Comparisons with in situ observations revealed correlation coefficients (R) of the order of 0.69–0.87, biases below 0.60 m, root-mean-squared errors (RMSE) between 0.89 m to 1.18 m, and a slope regression between 1.01 and 1.26. Using buoy observations as reference ground truth, the comparisons with SA revealed Rs higher than 0.94, biases under 0.19 m, and RMSEs between 0.17 m and 0.42 m. Since in situ observations do not overlap all the HFR range cells (RC), and its correlation coefficients with SA have shown good agreement (R > 0.94), Sentinel-3 SA (SRAL) SWH measurements are further used for the validation of the HFR systems SWH observations. The comparison between the HFR and the SA collocated SWH observations allowed the evaluation of the ability of the radars to retrieve wave data as a function of the distance to the coast, particularly during extreme wave events. The comparison of the lower frequency (4.86 MHz) HFR coastal radars with the SA measurements showed an R of 0.94–0.99, a negative but reduced bias (−0.37), and an RMSE of 0.53 m. The higher frequency HFR systems (12–13.5 MHz) showed R between 0.53 and 0.82, and a clear overestimation of the SWH by the HFR sites.

This study is focused on the impact of different parameterizations in the state-of-the art wave model WAVEWATCH3 (WW3) in describing the present climate and future wave climate projections. We have used a Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 6 (CMIP6)-derived single-wind forcing (from EC-EARTH) to produce a dynamic wind-wave climate ensemble for its historic (1995–2014) and future (2081–2100) periods. We discuss the uncertainty due to the wave model (intra-model uncertainty) in simulating the present and future wave climate. The historical wave climate runs were compared against the ERA5 reanalysis and found to be in good agreement for the significant wave height. This gives a good degree of confidence to investigate the intra-model uncertainty in WW3 using the available physics packages such as ST2, ST3, ST4, and ST6. In general, for the historic period, ST3 and ST4 physics packages perform better in the tropics whereas ST6 performs better in the extratropics, based on M-Score performance assessment. The study also reveals that the extratropical South Indian Ocean and tropical eastern South Pacific areas exhibit a larger amount of uncertainty, mainly induced by the ST2 physics package. The results of this study shed new light on the impacts associated with the use of multiple physics parameterizations in wave climate ensembles, an issue that has not received the necessary attention in scientific literature.