Video-monitoring can be exploited as a valuable tool to acquire continuous, high-quality information on the evolution of beach morphology at a low cost and, on such basis, perform beach resilience analyses. This manuscript presents preliminary results of an ongoing, long-term monitoring programme of five sandy Italian beaches along the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian sea. The project aims at analyzing nearshore morphologic variabilities on a time period of several years, to link them to resilience indicators. The observations indicate that most of the beach width variations can be linked to discrete variations of sandbar systems, and most of all to an offshore migration and decay of the outermost bars. Further, the largest net shoreline displacements across the observation period are experienced by beaches with a clear NOM (Net Offshore Migration)-type evolution of the seabed.
23 April 2022 in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
Numerical simulations of a range of wave climates and tide conditions made with the model XBeach are exploited to study propagation, evolution, dissipation, and reflection patterns of infragravity waves (IGW) at the intermediate‐to‐dissipative beach of Sabaudia (Tyrrhenian sea, Italy). On the basis of a novel calibration process performed using field swash properties collected by a nearby monitoring station, the model reproduces average run‐up characteristics with good skill (Willmott index of agreement of 0.61 for R2%). IGW at Sabaudia beach evolves exclusively as bound long waves growing across the shoaling region for both mild and intense wave climates. Furthermore, values of the dimensionless bed slope βH at which transition from steep‐to mild‐slope behavior occurs are higher than the threshold commonly assumed in the literature. Finally, although the small tide (0.4 m between mean high water spring and mean high water spring; tide range/breaking wave amplitude ratios between 0.14 and 1.1) does not alter bulk IGW reflection significantly, low tide is effective in reducing onshore IGW fluxes and, ultimately, reflection coefficients R2 selectively for intermediate IG frequencies. Our study, for the first time, gives clear evidence that the tide has a role in determining frequency‐dependent IGW dynamics and altering the dissipative state of a mild sloping beach also in a microtidal environment.
Recent studies have shown that wave blocking occurs at river mouths with strong currents typically preventing relatively short period sea and swell waves from propagating up the river. However, observations demonstrate that lower frequency waves, so-called infragravity waves, do pass through and propagate up the river, particularly during storm events. We present observations from the Misa River estuary of infragravity wave propagation up the river during storm conditions. A model of the complex nonlinear interactions that drive infragravity waves is presented. The results are discussed in the context of an observed river mouth bar formed in the lower reach of the Misa River.
Coastal inundation has recently started to require significant attention worldwide. The increasing frequency and intensity of extreme events (sea storms, tsunami waves) are highly stressing coastal environments by endangering a large number of residential areas, ecosystems, and tourist facilities, and also leading to potential environmental risks. Predicting such events and the generated coastal flooding is thus of paramount importance and can be accomplished by exploiting the potential of different tools. An example is the combination of remote sensors, like marine radars, with numerical models. Specifically, while instruments like X-band radars are able to precisely reconstruct both wave field and bathymetry up to some kilometers off the coast, wave-resolving Boussinesq-type models can reproduce the wave propagation in the nearshore area and the consequent coastal flooding. Hence, starting from baseline simulations of wave propagation and the conversion of water elevation results into radar images, the present work illustrates the reconstruction of coastal data (wave field and seabed depth) using a specifically suited data processing method, named the “Local Method”, and the use of such coastal data to run numerical simulations of coastal inundation in different scenarios. Such scenarios were built using two different European beaches, i.e., Senigallia (Italy) and Oostende (Belgium), and three different directional spreading values to evaluate the performances in cases of either long- or short-crested waves. Both baseline and inundation simulations were run using the FUNWAVE-TVD solver. The overall validation of the methodology, in terms of maximum inundation, shows its good performance, especially in cases of short-crested wind waves. Furthermore, the application on Oostende Beach demonstrates that the present methodology might work using only open-access tools, providing an easy investigation of coastal inundation and potential low-cost integration into early warning systems.