The orbital velocity of sea wave particles affects the value of sea surface parameters as measured by radar Doppler altimeters (also known as delay Doppler altimeter (DDA)). In DDA systems, the along-track resolution is attained by algorithms that take into account the Doppler shift induced by the component along the Earth/antenna direction of the satellite velocity, V_S. Since the vertical component of the wave particle orbital velocity also induces an additional Doppler effect (in the following R-effect), an error arises on the positioning of the target on the sea surface. A numerical investigation shows that when the wavelength of sea waves is of the same order of magnitude of the altimeter resolution, the shape of the waveform might be significantly influenced by the R-effect. The phenomenon can be particularly important for the monitoring of long swells, such as those that often take place in the oceans.

Onshore wind significantly affects wave run-up and overtopping, thereby representing a major variable to account for in the design process. The aim of this study is to analyze the ability of numerical models to properly reproduce the wind effect on the overtopping at vertical seawall and to use them to understand how the wind influences the overtopping process as well. We use the RANS model, FLOW-3D, and the NLSW model, SWASH; both model the action of wind through the shear stress that it exerts on the sea surface. Although a simplified modelling of wind has been adopted, the CFD model has led to physically consistent results. On the other hand, SWASH seems to be unsuitable for reproducing the enhancement of the overtopping rate due to wind. CFD numerical results show that the wind affects only the lower overtopping regime (i.e., q < 1 l/s/m); as the mean overtopping discharge decreases, the influence of wind increases. Specifically, wind plays a key role in pure “white overtopping”, where the advection of spray is the predominant mechanism of the overtopping process. The effects of wind thus seem to be important in the design of seawalls, but are difficult to quantify through hydraulic models because of the unknown scaling laws. Therefore, we have found that a full-scale numerical approach is suitable to study the influence of wind on wave overtopping and to evaluate the wind factor to take into account in the design process.

Calculating the significant wave height (SWH) in a given location as a function of the return time is an essential tool of coastal and ocean engineering; such a calculation can be carried out by making use of the now widely available weather and wave model chains, which often lead to underestimating the results, or by means of in situ experimental data (mostly, wave buoys), which are only available in a limited number of sites. A procedure is hereby tested whereby the curves of extreme SWH as a function of the return time deriving from model data are integrated with the similar curves computed from buoy data. A considerable improvement in accuracy is gained by making use of this integrated procedure in all locations where buoy data series are not available or are not long enough for a correct estimation. A useful and general design tool has therefore been provided to derive the extreme value SWH for any point in a given area.

The phenomenon of wave breaking dominates the hydrodynamics of the surf zone. Therefore, numerical modelling of shallow water phenomena requires a proper reproduction of the wave breaking mechanism. In this study, we analyze the ability of two open-source Boussinesq-type models, Celeris and FUNWAVE-TVD (Total Variation Diminishing version), to correctly reproduce wave breaking. The main aim is to obtain aware tools for numerical modelling of surf zone hydrodynamics. The results are compared with physical model tests and Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) numerical modelling.

The subject of the present work is the study of the phenomena of the interaction between wave motion and coastal defense structures for a new type of reinforcement unit in concrete armor blocks (C.A.U.)—named “MAYA”. The performance of single-layer MAYA armor, reproduced in a 1:20 Froude-scaled physical model, has been investigated in terms of hydraulic behavior and wave run-up, reflection, and overtopping. The results have been compared to classic literature formulations, numerical results of the same type of structure reproduced at full scale, and other artificial blocks. A new approach for the prediction of the reflection coefficient based on dimensional analysis was proposed in a previous study, and a newly derived empirical equation was also tested for numerical result validation. The structures were numerically modeled and reproduced using an innovative approach by overlapping individual three-dimensional elements of a new type of block “Maya”, Accropode and Tetrapod and a fine computational grid was fitted to provide enough computational nodes within the flow paths. The hydraulic behavior of the novel block was numerically evaluated, and its potential was assessed in comparison to other existing blocks. This was achieved by reproducing and analyzing the structures using a RANS approach. The numerical approach, which was validated by experimental results, enables the analysis of various design solutions in a shorter amount of time while ensuring the accuracy of the results. Additionally, the preliminary analysis showed the potential of the novel block, which allows for a reduction in construction and manufacturing costs while also demonstrating superior hydrodynamic performance in some cases.