Many dermatological conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, are treated with topical therapeutic products. Instead of applying the active drug directly onto the skin, it is combined with a vehicle to aid in its delivery across the stratum corneum (SC) and into deeper regions of the skin, namely the epidermis and dermis. Absorption into the systemic circulation is minimized. Topical vehicles are also used as cosmetic moisturizers (often termed emollient therapy) to ameliorate dry skin, which is a cornerstone of the management of various dermatological conditions, including xerosis, eczema, psoriasis, and aging. The most common topical vehicles include ointments, creams, gels, and lotions, among others. It is crucial that topical vehicles are chosen based upon the size and properties (wet/dry, mucous/non-mucous, healthy/diseased) of the skin to be treated in order to optimize application and contact of the product with the skin, as this can have profound impacts on potency, efficacy, and patient compliance. This review examines common topical vehicles used for drug delivery and cosmetic moisturizers, including their formulation, advantages and disadvantages, and effects on the skin. The unique rules imposed by governing regulatory bodies in Australia and around the world, in terms of topical product claims, are also briefly examined.

Wound management, in addition to presenting a significant burden to patients and their families, also contributes significantly to a country’s healthcare costs. Treatment strategies are numerous, but in most cases not ideal. Hydrogels, three-dimensional polymeric materials that can withstand a great degree of swelling without losing structural integrity, are drawing great attention for their use as topical wound management solutions in the form of films and as vehicles for drug delivery, due to their unique properties of high water content, biocompatibility, and flexibility. Hydrogels, both naturally and synthetically derived, can be tuned to respond to specific stimuli such as pH, temperature and light and they are ideally suited as drug delivery vehicles. Here we provide a brief overview of the history and characteristics of hydrogels, assess their uses in wound management and drug delivery, and compare them with other types of common drug delivery vehicle.

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Products designed to cleanse the skin commonly do so through surfactant action, which leads to the lowering of the surface tension of the skin to facilitate the removal of dirt from its surface. Skin cleansers generally come in one of two types: soap-based and synthetic detergents, or syndets. While the latter can effectively maintain the native skin structure, function and integrity, the former tends to negatively affect the skin by causing barrier disruption, lipid dissolution and pH alteration. Despite this, soap is still often preferred, possibly due to the negative connotations around anything that is not perceived as ‘natural’. It is, therefore, important that the science behind cleansers, especially those designed for the maintenance of healthy skin and the management of common skin conditions such as eczema, be understood by both formulators and end-users. Here, we carefully weigh the advantages and disadvantages of the different types of surfactant—the key ingredient(s) in skin cleansers—and provide insight into surfactants’ physicochemical properties, biological activity and potential effects. Fine-tuning of the complex characteristics of surfactants can successfully lead to an ‘optimal’ skin cleanser that can simultaneously be milder in nature, highly effective and beneficial, and offer minimal skin interference and environmental impact.

As a highly regulated and dynamically balanced intracellular degradation mechanism, macroautophagy/autophagy plays an essential housekeeping role in different successive stages of skin wound healing; from the homeostasis and inflammatory stages to the proliferative and remodeling stages. Under both progressive and defective skin wound healing conditions, autophagy operates at different levels with a precise extent of activity, at the interface of inflammation, stress signaling and cell metabolism through a complex spatiotemporal cascade of molecular and cellular events. Depending on the wound healing conditions autophagic activity is fine-tuned and differentially modulated at each stage of skin wound healing in order to cope with stage-specific requirements. Here, we postulate that under favorable conditions autophagy may act as the key modulator of skin wound healing by making chronic wounds acute. Enhancing autophagy through the topical application of pro-autophagy biologics in an appropriate hydrating vehicle/moisturizing base such as hydrogels, onto a chronic skin wound may provide moisture and immune modulation, thus contributing to rapid and efficient skin wound healing. A moist environment is more conducive to skin wound healing as it helps to not only accelerate cell proliferation and migration, and extracellular matrix reorganization, but also promotes autophagy and reduces the incidence of inflammation.

The dysfunctional skin barrier in eczema patients may be attributed to decreased levels of ceramides in the stratum corneum. The aim of this study was to determine whether a two‐part system consisting of a ceramide‐dominant physiological lipid‐based moisturizing cream and cleanser could ameliorate the signs and symptoms of moderate eczema in adults over 28 days compared to placebo. Assessments were conducted at baseline and every 7 days thereafter. Eczema Area Severity Index (EASI) score decreased significantly across all time points in both groups compared to baseline (P < 0.0001), however, this decrease was not significant between groups at day 28 (P = 0.7804). In contrast, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration significantly improved over time in the active group, while it either stayed the same or worsened in the placebo group (P = 0.0342 and P < 0.0001, respectively). There was no difference in the use of mometasone furoate as rescue medication over time between groups (P = 0.1579). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) scores improved significantly in both groups (P < 0.0001), with no difference between groups (P = 0.5256). However, patient satisfaction was greater in the active compared to the placebo group for several parameters including relief of itch, dry skin, skin softness and smoothness (all P < 0.05). No patients withdrew from the study due to adverse events (AEs) and there were no serious AEs. The ceramide‐dominant moisturizing cream and cleanser safely restores skin permeability and improves the signs and symptoms of eczema in adults.