Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low‐to‐mild‐sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < tanβ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave parameters are used to force a high‐resolution wave model, and nearshore wave parameters and high‐resolution topographic data are analyzed concurrently with runup time series in order to assess the dependence of the runup on hydrodynamic conditions and morphological parameters. The wave runup is shown to be strongly related to the square root of the offshore significant wave height times the offshore wavelength. The measurements also reveal the depth dependence of the runup, which is mainly attributed to the curvature of the foreshore profile. In comparison to empirical relation obtained for a mild‐sloping beach, the present data show a significant reduction in normalized wave runup, that is attributed to enhanced bottom friction over the rocky bottom.

Coral reefs are an essential source of marine biodiversity, but they are declining at an alarming rate under the combined effects of global change and human pressure. A precise mapping of coral reef habitat with high spatial and time resolutions has become a necessary step for monitoring their health and evolution. This mapping can be achieved remotely thanks to satellite imagery coupled with machine-learning algorithms. In this paper, we review the different satellites used in recent literature, as well as the most common and efficient machine-learning methods. To account for the recent explosion of published research on coral reel mapping, we especially focus on the papers published between 2018 and 2020. Our review study indicates that object-based methods provide more accurate results than pixel-based ones, and that the most accurate methods are Support Vector Machine and Random Forest. We emphasize that the satellites with the highest spatial resolution provide the best images for benthic habitat mapping. We also highlight that preprocessing steps (water column correction, sunglint removal, etc.) and additional inputs (bathymetry data, aerial photographs, etc.) can significantly improve the mapping accuracy.

This paper reports on a combined experimental and numerical study dedicated to barrier reefs hydrodynamics. A network of pressure sensors and velocity profilers has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The primary aim of the study is to assess the relevance of the classical depth‐averaged momentum balance in such a complex and poorly documented environment. The combined analysis of experimental and numerical measurements reveals a specific hydrodynamic behaviour contrasting with sandy beaches and fringing reefs. The cross‐reef current induced by wave breaking over the barrier reef plays an important role in the momentum budget, in particular through friction processes. The hydrodynamic behaviour over the barrier reef is thus characterized by the progressive transition from a nearly classical beach type behaviour on the forereef, where the gradient of radiation stress is balanced by a barotropic pressure gradient associated to the wave setup, to an open‐channel type regime, dominated by frictional head loss. The reef top wave setup shows a clear depth‐dependency mainly attributed to the forereef curvature. During extreme wave events, the measurements tend to indicate a transition toward a critical hydraulic regime above the reef top. The numerical simulations, involving a non‐hydrostatic wave‐resolving model coupled to a K‐ϵ turbulence model, highlight the vertical structure of the flow. Over the reef flat, a classical log‐layer profile is observed, in agreement with measurements, while above the forereef an anti‐clockwise circulation develops under the breaking zone.

Microplastic (MP) debris is recognized to be one of the most serious threats to marine environments. They are found in all seas and oceanic basins worldwide, even in the most remote areas. This is further proof that the transport of MPs is very efficient. In the present study, we focus our attention on MPs’ transport owing to the Stokes drift generated by sea waves. Recent studies have shown that the interaction between heavy particles and Stokes drift leads to unexpected phenomena mostly related to inertial effects. We perform a series of laboratory experiments with the aim to directly measure MPs’ trajectories under different wave conditions. The main objective is to quantify the inertial effect and, ultimately, suggest a new analytical formulation for the net settling velocity. The latter formula might be implemented in a larger scale transport model in order to account for inertial effects in a simplified approach.

We analyze Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of wave‐induced circulation collected during a 3‐week field experiment at a high‐energy mesotidal barred beach with the presence of a 500‐m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave and tide conditions were found to largely impact circulation patterns. Three main regimes were identified depending on offshore wave obliquity: (1) Under shore‐normal configuration, the flow was dominated by cross‐shore motions, except for moderate waves at low tide, with the presence of a quasi‐steady circulation cell on the reef. (2) Under shadowed configuration, an onshore‐directed current flowing away from the headland and a weak oscillating eddy were present outside and inside the shadow region, respectively. (3) Under deflection configuration, a deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone was present, with activity maximized around low tide for moderate waves. Under 4‐m oblique waves, the deflection rip was active regardless of the tide with mean depth‐averaged velocities up to 0.7 m/s 800‐m offshore in 12‐m depth, with energetic low‐frequency fluctuations. Our results emphasize the ability of deflection rips to transport materials far offshore, suggesting that such rips can transport sediment beyond the depth of closure. This study indicates that a wide variety of wave‐driven circulation patterns can occur and sometimes coexist on beaches with prominent geological settings. Changes in the dominant driving mechanism can occur as a result of small changes in wave and tide conditions, resulting in more spatially and temporally variable circulation than along open sandy beaches.