We developed a method for extracting CitCNCs from discarded cotton garments via esterification followed by mechanical fibrillation. LCA analysis, based on lab-scale data, guides strategies to minimize the environmental impact of CitCNC production.

LCBROM enables early-stage innovation assessment by fostering transparency and dialogue, allowing for the early identification of opportunities and hotspots.

In this article we introduce a method to be used for life cycle-based assessment in early innovation to fill the gap of tools for assessing emerging technologies. The approach is intended to support innovation processes for clean technology. Thus, it needs to facilitate a dialogue and encourage innovators to share uncertain information. Such information could potentially hamper the development process if conclusions are drawn based on concepts before scale-up. For the required flexibility and transparency, we propose a series of direct exchanges and preliminary evaluations. The Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability, outlined to implement the European Green Deal, calls for the transition towards use of safe and sustainable chemicals, hence the Joint Research Center (JRC) published a framework for Safe and Sustainable by Design (SSbD) chemicals and materials. Among the key features of the framework is the application for early-stage developments of innovations, during which the outcome can be influenced, and parameters are not fully decided. The method proposed in this publication, life cycle-based risk and opportunity mapping (LCBROM), may be used both prior an SSbD assessment to facilitate its scoping process, as well as during an SSbD procedure. An LCBROM intends to bring together knowledge and requirements from different stakeholders in an innovation process and has been applied in four case studies within the area of clean technology. By applying the method we have realized that i) opportunity mapping is key for good involvement of the innovation owner but can only be performed if there is a suitable benchmark technology as reference or the consequences of inaction can be defined, ii) Several methods exist that in theory could be applied for assessing emerging technologies, although none seems to be commonly used, and iii) LCBROM has the potential to fulfill four criteria that we see as crucial for tools intended for assessing innovations at low TRL. A major benefit of the mapping approach is the increased transparency and communication between technology developer, problem owner and assessment experts. Such communication guides the process and allows for understanding of each other’s questions and feedback. LCBROM will be further improved and tested in the EU funded research programme BioSusTex.

This paper presents a qualitative sustainability assessment of an innovative, water-based, partially bio-based, and potentially removable screen-printing ink designed to replace conventional PVC-based inks in the textile industry. The assessment is conducted in alignment with the European Commission’s tiered Safe and Sustainable by Design (SSbD) framework, applying a simplified screening approach suitable for innovations with limited sustainability data availability. The evaluation is conducted using the LCBROM (Life Cycle Based Risk and Opportunity Mapping) methodology, which is a structured approach designed to identify potential environmental, economic, and social drawbacks and benefits throughout the product’s life cycle, from production and use to end of life. The screening incorporates the MET+Ec+S matrix (Material, Energy, Toxicity, and Economic and Social dimensions), providing a comprehensive overview of the sustainability performance of the removable PVC-free ink at each stage of its life cycle. The novel removable PVC-free ink formulation incorporates bio-based pigments, thickeners, and plasticisers, and is designed to facilitate recyclability and reuse in textile applications. Compared to traditional plastisol inks, the screening indicates potential reductions in toxicity and environmental persistence compared to PVC-based plastisol inks, subject to validation in future quantitative studies. However, key trade-offs include reliance on fossil-based ingredients (as bio-based alternatives are still being developed), increased material costs, and durability concerns. Despite these issues, the removable PVC-free ink’s compatibility with existing printing infrastructure and alignment with emerging EU sustainability regulations indicate its potential relevance for circular textile production, subject to validation through quantitative life-cycle assessment and pilot-scale implementation. The results do not constitute a quantitative life cycle assessment but instead provide a structured qualitative basis for guiding further development, data collection, and future LCA modeling. By explicitly positioning the work within a simplified SSbD tier, this study demonstrates how early-stage screening can support innovation design while transparently addressing uncertainty and trade-offs.