In this work, the phytochemical analysis of Teucrium chamaedrys L. collected in Italy was reported. Eight compounds were isolated and identified by means of classical column chromatography and spectroscopic techniques, such as NMR and MS. In detail, these compounds were: verbascoside (1), forsythoside b (2), samioside (3), alyssonoside (4), harpagide (5), 8-O-acetyl-harpagide (6), cirsiliol (7) and β-arbutin (8). The presence of these compounds, in particular iridoids and phenyl-ethanoid glycosides, has a chemotaxonomic relevance and results to be in perfect accordance with the current botanical classification of the species. In addition, it provides a phytochemical rationale for the use of this particular plant in the ethno-pharmacological field. Conversely, it is worth of mention the absence of potentially toxic components, unlike to what observed in other species of the genus which can no longer be used for ethno-medicinal purposes.

In this review, the relevance of the plant species belonging to the Pedicularis L. genus has been considered from different points of view. Particular emphasis was given to phytochemistry and ethnopharmacology, since several classes of natural compounds have been reported within this genus and many of its species are well known to be employed in the traditional medicines of many Asian countries. Some important conclusions on the chemotaxonomic and chemosystematic aspects of the genus have also been provided for the first time. Actually, this work represents the first total comprehensive review on this genus.

In this paper, two different objects from the ethnographic collection of the museum of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary (Rome), a Polynesian barkcloth (tapa) and a Polynesian headdress in feathers (pa’e ku’a), were investigated to characterize the materials, to evaluate their state of conservation and address the restoration activities. Imaging methods such as multispectral imaging, 3D ultraviolet induced fluorescence and scanning electron microscopy have been integrated with analytical techniques such as X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared and surface enhanced Raman spectroscopy. Imaging investigations allowed us to differentiate constitutive materials and study their distribution, such as the yellow dye in the tapa used to trace the geometrical pattern and the psittacofulvins responsible for the feathers’ colors in the headdress. The combination of molecular spectroscopy, supported by observation under a scanning electron microscope, allowed us to propose a characterization of the organic painting materials (Morinda citrifolia, Curcuma longa) used for the tapa, and of the type of feathers (from Vini kuhlii bird) and vegetal fibers (Cocos nucifera L.) used to realize the headdress, as well as enabling the identification of degradation products and microorganisms affecting the artifacts before restoration. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy detected the organic materials used as adhesives for the tapa and headdress: a polysaccharide, probably starch, for the tapa and a natural rubber from Cerbera manghas L. for the headdress. The results of the multi-analytic diagnostic campaign enabled the choice of proper restoration materials, compatible with the original ones, and helped us develop effective protocols for the artifacts’ conservation, such as laser cleaning of the feathers.

In this paper, the application of a multi-analytical approach for the characterisation of synthetic and natural dyes in a historical textile is presented. The work is focused on a historical dress of a Sicilian noblewoman, dating from about 1865–1870. Firstly, SERS on fibre was performed, in order to individuate the classes of dyes employed. The SERS spectra suggested the presence of two main dyes: mauveine and orcein. In order to confirm these preliminary results, two different extraction protocols were applied. The extracts obtained were analysed by ESI-MS, MALDI-ToF and UHPCL-MS analyses, confirming the SERS results. In particular, the application of the ammonia mild extraction technique allowed to selectively extract the phenoxazonic dyes, separating them already in the extraction step from the synthetic ones. Thanks to this multi-analytical approach, this dress could be considered as one of the first examples of employment of synthetic dyes in association with natural ones.

Vesuvius eruption that destroyed Pompeii in AD 79 represents one of the most important events in history. The cataclysm left behind an abundance of archeological evidence representing a fundamental source of the knowledge we have about ancient Roman material culture and technology. A great number of textiles have been preserved, rarely maintaining traces of their original color, since they are mainly in the mineralized and carbonized state. However, one outstanding textile sample displays a brilliant purple color and traces of gold strips. Since the purple was one of the most exclusive dyes in antiquity, its presence in an important commercial site like Pompeii induces us to deepen the knowledge of such artifacts and provide further information on their history. For this reason, the characterization of the purple color was the main scope of this research, and to deepen the knowledge of such artifacts, the SERS (Surface Enhanced Raman Scattering) in solution approach was applied. Then, these data were enriched by HPLC-HRMS analyses, which confirmed SERS-based hypotheses and also allowed to hypothesize the species of the origin mollusk. In this context, a step-by-step integrated approach resulted fundamental to maximize the information content and to provide new data on textile manufacturing and trade in antiquity.

To date, it is still not possible to obtain exhaustive information about organic materials in cultural heritage without sampling. Nonetheless, when studying unique objects with invaluable artistic or historical significance, preserving their integrity is a priority. In particular, organic dye identification is of significant interest for history and conservation research, but it is still hindered by analytes’ low concentration and poor fastness. In this work, a minimally invasive approach for dye identification is presented. The procedure is designed to accompany noninvasive analyses of inorganic substances for comprehensive studies of complex cultural heritage matrices, in compliance with their soundness. Liquid extraction of madder, turmeric, and indigo dyes was performed directly from paint layers and textiles. The extraction was supported by hydrogels, which themselves can undergo multitechnique analyses in the place of samples. After extraction, Ag colloid pastes were applied on the gels for SERS analyses, allowing for the identification of the three dyes. For the HPLC-MS/MS analyses, re-extraction of the dyes was followed by a clean-up step that was successfully applied on madder and turmeric. The colour change perceptivity after extraction was measured with colorimetry. The results showed ΔE values mostly below the upper limit of rigorous colour change, confirming the gentleness of the procedure.