In recent years, significant progress has been made in transdermal drug delivery systems, but there is still a search for enhancers that can improve the absorption of active substances through the stratum corneum. Although permeation enhancers have been described in the scientific literature, the use of naturally occurring substances in this role is still of particular interest, because they can offer a high level of safety of use, with a low risk of skin irritation, and high efficiency. In addition, these ingredients are biodegradable, easily available, and widely accepted by consumers due to the growing trust in natural compounds. This article provides information on the role of naturally derived compounds in transdermal drug delivery systems that help them penetrate the skin. The work focuses on the components found in the stratum corneum such as sterols, ceramides, oleic acid, and urea. Penetration enhancers found in nature, mainly in plants, such as terpenes, polysaccharides, and fatty acids have also been described. The mechanism of action of permeation enhancers in the stratum corneum is discussed, and information on the methods of assessing their penetration efficiency is provided. Our review mainly covers original papers from 2017 to 2022, supplemented with review papers, and then older publications used to supplement or verify the data. The use of natural penetration enhancers has been shown to increase the transport of active ingredients through the stratum corneum and can compete with synthetic counterparts.

Facial makeup cosmetics are commonly used products that are applied to the skin, and their ingredients come into contact with it for many years. Consequently, they should only contain substances that are considered safe or used within an allowable range of established concentrations. According to current European laws, all cosmetics approved for use should be entirely safe for their users, and the responsibility for this lies with manufacturers, distributors, and importers. However, the use of cosmetics can be associated with undesirable effects due to the presence of certain chemical substances. An analysis of 50 random facial makeup cosmetics commercially available on the European Union market and manufactured in six European countries was carried out, concerning the presence of substances with potential carcinogenic properties, as described in recent years in the literature. Nine types of facial makeup cosmetics were selected, and their compositions, as declared on the labels, were analyzed. The carcinogens were identified with information present in the European CosIng database and according to the Insecticide Resistance Action Committee’s (IRAC) classification. As a result, the following potential carcinogens were identified: parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben), ethoxylated compounds (laureth-4, lautreth-7, or ethylene glycol polymers known as PEG), formaldehyde donors (imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15, and DMDM hydantoin), and ethanolamine and their derivatives (triethanolamine and diazolidinyl urea), as well as carbon and silica. In conclusion, all of the analyzed face makeup cosmetics contain potential carcinogenic substances. The literature review confirmed the suppositions regarding the potential carcinogenic effects of selected cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, it seems necessary to carry out studies on the long-term exposure of compounds present in cosmetics and perhaps introduce stricter standards and laws regulating the potential presence of carcinogens and their activity in cosmetics.

Due to the growing importance of green chemistry, the search for alternatives to cellulose has begun, leading to the rediscovery of bacterial cellulose (BC). The material is produced by Gluconacetobacter and Acetobacter bacteria, mainly Komagataeibacter xylinus. It is a pure biopolymer, without lignin or hemicellulose, forming a three-dimensional mesh, showing much lower organization than its plant counterpart. Thanks to its design, it has proven itself in completely unprecedented applications - especially in the field of biomedical sciences. Coming in countless forms, it has found use in applications such as wound dressings, drug delivery systems, or tissue engineering. The review article focuses on discussing the main structural differences between plant and bacterial cellulose, methods of bacterial cellulose synthesis, and the latest trends in BC applications in biomedical sciences.