Resveratrol and its oligomers are biologically active compounds. This work brings new insights for the bioproduction of trans-resveratrol with three dimers, pallidol, trans-ε-viniferin, and trans-δ-viniferin, in cell suspension of Vitis labrusca. Conditions of elicitation by methyl jasmonate were optimized for the production of stilbenes using statistical design of experiment. Bio-production of stilbenes was scaled-up to 5 L and in these conditions, trans-resveratrol concentrations reached 237 mg/L, and for pallidol 114 mg/L. The comparison of different elicitation modes (different elicitors, combination with cyclodextrins or adsorbent resin) allowed to reach particularly high concentrations of target molecules: Resveratrol 6.14 g/L, pallidol 0.90 g/L, δ-viniferin 0.54 g/L, and ε-viniferin 0.50 g/L. Scale-up to 20 L-stirring-bioreactor gave similar growth rates to those observed in shake flask culture, with a high production of resveratrol (4.23 g/L) and δ-viniferin (0.76 g/L). This work provides new strategies for the production of stilbenes in plant cell suspension for biological and commercial evaluation.

The aim of the present study was to investigate the neuro-soothing activity of a water-soluble hydrolysate obtained from the red microalgae Rhodosorus marinus Geitler (Stylonemataceae). Transcriptomic analysis performed on ≈100 genes related to skin biological functions firstly revealed that the crude Rhodosorus marinus extract was able to significantly negatively modulate specific genes involved in pro-inflammation (interleukin 1α encoding gene, IL1A) and pain detection related to tissue inflammation (nerve growth factor NGF and its receptor NGFR). An in vitro model of normal human keratinocytes was then used to evaluate the ability of the Rhodosorus marinus extract to control the release of neuro-inflammation mediators under phorbol myristate acetate (PMA)-induced inflammatory conditions. The extract incorporated at 1% and 3% significantly inhibited the release of IL-1α and NGF secretion. These results were confirmed in a co-culture system of reconstructed human epithelium and normal human epidermal keratinocytes on which a cream formulated with the Rhodosorus marinus extract at 1% and 3% was topically applied after systemic induction of neuro-inflammation. Finally, an in vitro model of normal human astrocytes was developed for the evaluation of transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) receptor modulation, mimicking pain sensing related to neuro-inflammation as observed in sensitive skins. Treatment with the Rhodosorus marinus extract at 1% and 3% significantly decreased PMA-mediated TRPV1 over-expression. In parallel with these biological experiments, the crude Rhodosorus marinus extract was fractionated by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) and chemically profiled by a recently developed ¹³C NMR-based dereplication method. The CPC-generated fractions as well as pure metabolites were tested again in vitro in an attempt to identify the biologically active constituents involved in the neuro-soothing activity of the Rhodosorus marinus extract. Two active molecules, namely, γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA) and its structural derivative GABA-alanine, demonstrated a strong capacity to positively regulate skin sensitization mechanisms related to the TRPV1 receptors under PMA-induced inflammatory conditions, therefore providing interesting perspectives for the treatment of sensitive skins, atopia, dermatitis, or psoriasis.

Chrysopogon zizanioides, more commonly known as Vetiver, is a perennial grass widely cultivated in tropical regions. The plant, known to stabilize soil and limit erosion, is studied for phytoremediation and its roots contain an essential oil that is renowned in the fine fragrance and cosmetic industries. The essential oil has been traditionally used in South Asia as an anti‐inflammatory, antimicrobial and healing agent (non‐exhaustive list) (1,2). Moreover, Chomchalow in his review evoked the ability of the essential oil to moisturize and rejuvenate the skin.

Baicalin is a biologically active flavone glucuronide with poor water solubility that can be enhanced via glucosylation. In this study, the transglucosylation of baicalin was successfully achieved with CGTases from Thermoanaerobacter sp. and Bacillus macerans using α-cyclodextrin as a glucosyl donor. The synthesis of baicalin glucosides was optimized with CGTase from Thermoanaerobacter sp. Enzymatically modified baicalin derivatives were α-glucosylated with 1 to 17 glucose moieties. The two main glucosides were identified as Baicalein-7-O-α-D-Glucuronidyl-(1→4′)-O-α-D-Glucopyranoside (BG₁) and Baicalein-7-O-α-D-Glucuronidyl-(1→4′)-O-α-D-Maltoside (BG₂), thereby confirming recent findings reporting that glucuronyl groups are acceptors of this CGTase. Optimized conditions allowed for the attainment of yields above 85% (with a total glucoside content higher than 30 mM). BG₁ and BG₂ were purified via centrifugal partition chromatography after an enrichment through deglucosylation with amyloglucosidase. Transglucosylation increased the water solubility of BG₁ by a factor of 188 in comparison to that of baicalin (molar concentrations), while the same value for BG₂ was increased by a factor of 320. Finally, BG₁ and BG₂ were evaluated using antioxidant and anti-glycation assays. Both glucosides presented antioxidant and anti-glycation properties in the same order of magnitude as that of baicalin, thereby indicating their potential biological activity.

Background: The COVID‐19 pandemic brought about a new normal, necessitating the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) like face shields, surgical masks, gloves, and goggles. However, prolonged mask‐wearing introduced skin‐related issues due to changes in the skin's microenvironment, including increased humidity and temperature, as well as pressure on the skin. These factors led to skin deformation, vascular issues, edema, and inflammation, resulting in discomfort and cosmetic concerns. Clinical reports quickly highlighted the consequences of long‐term mask use, including increased cases of “maskne” (mask‐related acne) or mask‐wearing related disorders such as rosacea flare‐ups, skin‐barrier defects, itching, erythema, redness, hyperpigmentation, and lichenification. Some of these issues, like inflammation, oxidative stress, and poor wound healing, could be directly linked to acne‐related disorders or skin hypoxia. Aim: To address these problems, researchers turned to rutin, a well‐known flavonoid with antioxidant, vasoactive, and anti‐inflammatory properties. However, rutin's poor water solubility presented a challenge for cosmetic formulations. To overcome this limitation, a highly water‐soluble form of rutin was developed, making it suitable for use at higher concentrations. Methods: In vitro and ex vivo tests were conducted, as well as an innovative clinical trial including volunteers wearing surgical masks for at least 2 h, to evaluate the biological activity of this soluble rutin on the main skin concerns associated with mask‐wearing (inflammation, oxidative stress, skin repair, hyperpigmentation, and skin redness). Results: The in vitro results showed that the active ingredient significantly reduced oxidative stress, improved wound healing, and reduced inflammation. In dark skin explants, the active ingredient significantly reduced melanin content, indicating its lightening activity. This effect was confirmed in the clinical study, where brown spots decreased significantly after 4 days of application. Moreover, measurements on volunteers demonstrated a decrease in skin redness and vascularization after the active ingredient application, indicating inflammation and erythema reduction. Volunteers reported improved skin comfort. Conclusion: In summary, the COVID‐19 pandemic led to various skin issues associated with mask‐wearing. A highly soluble form of rutin was developed, which effectively addressed these concerns by reducing inflammation, oxidative stress, and hyperpigmentation while promoting wound healing. This soluble rutin offers a promising solution for the rapid treatment of maskne‐related disorders and other skin problems caused by prolonged mask use.