In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:_dH₂O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Macroalgae belong to a diverse group of organisms that could be exploited for biomolecule application. Among the biocompounds found in this group, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are highlighted mainly due to their photoprotection, antioxidant properties, and high photo and thermo-stability, which are attractive characteristics for the development of cosmeceutical products. Therefore, here we revise published data about MAAs, including their biosynthesis, biomass production, extraction, characterization, identification, purification, and bioactivities. MAAs can be found in many algae species, but the highest concentrations are found in red macroalgae, mainly in the order Bangiales, as Porphyra spp. In addition to the species, the content of MAAs can vary depending on environmental factors, of which solar radiation and nitrogen availability are the most influential. MAAs can confer photoprotection due to their capacity to absorb ultraviolet radiation or reduce the impact of free radicals on cells, among other properties. To extract these compounds, different approaches can be used. The efficiency of these methods can be evaluated with characterization and identification using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), associated with other apparatus such as mass spectrometry (MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Therefore, the data presented in this review allow a broad comprehension of MAAs and show perspectives for their inclusion in cosmeceutical products.

Barufi J.B., Mata M.T., Oliveira M.C. and Figueroa F.L. 2012. Nitrate reduces the negative effect of UV radiation on photosynthesis and pigmentation in Gracilaria tenuistipitata (Rhodophyta): the photoprotection role of mycosporine-like amino acids. Phycologia 51: 636–648. DOI: 10.2216/10.77.1 Photoprotection of the agarophyte red alga Gracilaria tenuistipitata against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) was investigated in algae submitted for 1 week to photosynthetically active radiation (PAR, 260 μmol photons m−2 s−1) or PAR + UVR (UV-A, 8.13 W m−2 and UV-B, 0.42 W m−2) under different nitrogen concentrations: 0, 0.1, and 0.5 mM of NO3−. Photosynthetic pigments decreased during the time of the experiment mainly under low nitrogen supply and UVR. Incubation under high nitrogen supply (0.5 mM) sustained the photosynthetic levels over time. In contrast, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) increased up to eightfold in the presence of UVR and 0.5 mM NO3−. Under PAR + UVR, maximal quantum yield was positively correla...